Welcome to the Emma Plus forum/blog. We've started this open-access debating platform as an unusual and hopefully useful way for larger women who have an interest in fashion to interact both with us and with other like-minded people.

We would like our forum/blog to be fashion-orientated and, most importantly, large-size fashion orientated. For too long it seems the terms 'large-size' and 'fashion' haven't been able to co-exist! It's all very well fashion writers telling us what the latest looks are (as seen on Agyness Deyn or Kate Moss), when there is no way that we can buy them ourselves. And conversely, when fashion writers address the issue of larger women, why do they so often forget the fashion element?

If you, our customers and other members of our internet audience, ask us questions or make comments about fashion then we will try to answer them in the real world, with examples of real items that are available in larger sizes. And if you ask us about large clothes we will always talk in terms of design, style and fashion – and not as if we have never heard of such things!

If you're looking for a drop-dead sexy party dress in a size 22, for example, or a mother-of-the bride outfit in a size 30, we will try to give you relevant information and interesting ideas that always have fashion and design integrity. If you just ask us for general ideas, we will share with you some of the knowledge we have built up over the past 20 years.

Most of all, though, we are hoping that you will help us to improve our knowledge about what larger-sized women really want from fashion – with your own knowledge, observations, stories, wish-lists, loves and hates.

To see the latest addition, just click on the 'end' button above, which will take you to the bottom of our page.

We have made contributing to this forum/blog as simple as possible. You don’t need to pre-register or be an existing customer. All we ask is that you include your name and email address with your contribution. We will only use your email address if we need to contact you off-line about your posting – it will not be displayed on the site, sold on or used in our general marketing.

I look forward to hearing from you.

 
What a fantastic initiative! Congratulations for setting this up. I'll be checking out this page regularly and will definitely be posting when I have something to contribute, but I thought you would appreciate some instant feedback!

 
Thanks for your reply, Angie. It's very early days for the forum, and it will be interesting to see how things develop! I've been getting emails from customers for years, and it has always been refreshing and informative to hear women's enquiries, experiences and opinions. Hopefully, if these messages go on to the forum, everyone will be able to share in this...

 
Hi Emma,
Thank you for taking the time to do such a blog. We, Plus Size Women, come in all shapes and weights and it is not always easy to know what will suit us better. I have listed your blog and your store on www.BellesPlus.com, a website to find Plus Size stores 'around the World or around the corner'. The picture is from an article that featured it in the Ottawa Citizen last week. Thanks for all this work.
Catherine LG all the way from Ottawa, Canada

 
Hi Catherine

Thank you for your interest and support in our forum/blog. I know that you have a great interest in the subject of larger-size fashion (amongst other things), and I am so glad to know that you are offering your creative input into this subject. Women really need to know what is on offer to them in their size, and it is people like you who are really helping to spread the word. Your site is fascinating. I’m sure there will be more to this story as time goes on...

 
Just found your website. Your shop looks like exactly what I was looking for. I'm fed up with having to buy supermarket clothes because nothing in the fashion shops fits unless you want to look like the bride's mother. The recent fad for cheap clothing has made things worse. I hate the flimsy fabric and cost cutting finish. One wash and you look like a bag lady. My style has always been jeans and t-shirts but scruffy is harder to carry off as you get older. I still want the casual look but I want something stylish too.

 
Hi Fiz

Thank you for your post - it does sound as if you are our kind of customer! We do a selection of very good quality casual clothes, which perform extremely well over a period of time, and launder superbly. Recently, I read a report from Greenpeace that concluded that poor-quality, cheap clothing was more damaging to the environment than good quality, long-lasting items, if they were used properly.

It’s a salient fact that for a modestly higher initial outlay you can be enjoying a cheaper cost-per-wear than you would if you were not able to buy such a good quality garment in the first place.

Also, you will be going for a slightly smarter-casual, more desirable look... which makes you feel good because you know you look good! And if you really like the style of an item, it is very satisfying to be able to get maximum use out of it. Because casual styles are more classic, changing less over time, some of our customers report having their favourite casual clothes for years and years.

 
Hi

I'm hoping you can help. I am looking for some trousers in linen if possible. I work in a very hot office so nothing too hot. I usually go for a dark colour but it would be nice to get some colour in my life! Would be great to hear what you have.

Clare

 
Hi Clare

Thanks for your enquiry. You will be happy to know that the kind of trousers you are talking about are something of a speciality of ours! We do a lot of cotton, linen and stretchy fabric trousers, and we always make sure we have plenty that are cool - in summer and winter. Many of our customers work in warm offices! It's quite early in the season (we get our new stock in around now), but already we have some in black, some in gorgeous deep cobalt blue and in beige, all in linen, and we are steadily getting deliveries of cotton in as well.

It's worth knowing that you can put your requirements on our wish-list, either by emailing us on emmaplus@btconnect.com, or by phoning 01273 327240, and we will find out exactly what size and style you want. I don't need to mention that the shape of trouser that suits your body shape is essential. We will then call or email you when they arrive in store.

You may also be interested in attending one of our Trouser Days, on the 24th and 25th April. If you would like to know more, please see below...

 
I have an important evening event to go to but would like a dress or outfit that you need to feel confident in, but also wear again in the future.

 
Hi Jane

The subject of eveningwear is a complex one, and I would normally advise you to come into the store to have a look through what is available. You don't say where you are – if you are planning to drive some distance in your quest for an outfit then I would advise you to always phone the retailer first, just to make sure they have enough of the right thing in stock to make your trip worthwhile.

At this time of year you can give yourself a lot of unnecessary stress by trying to buy too early. The fashion business is very seasonal, of course, and you may find that there isn't much available at this time of year (January). We large girls can then get depressed and even paranoid, thinking that we will never find what we are looking for in our size! Yet in just a few weeks time the shops will start to get a really good selection of the most beautiful event wear imaginable.

The evening and occasional wear this season is particularly good, with the most lovely colours – including pinks, purples and blues – and will be in most fashion boutiques by the end of March. Some early styles are already in, and being snapped up, because the truth is there never is a moment when you will find everything in store. By the time the last items are delivered the first will have sold out.

So the best advice for those women lucky enough to live near a shop is to call in regularly to make sure they don't miss anything. Women who have to travel some distance should optimise their trip by liaising with the staff in advance about the range of choice on offer at the time they plan to visit.

 
Hi Emma and thanks for the forum, great idea.

I was just surfing the net and came across a jeans brand called Svoboda. According to the details you stock them. What are they like and has anyone got them? I normally wear NP Jeans.

NICOLA (SPAIN)

 
Hi Nicola

Thanks for your enquiry about Svoboda jeans. Yes, we have stocked them (and actually we still have a pair of size 28). Whether we will continue to stock them is a bit of a contentious issue - all those we had ended up in the sale!

The problem is the fit. These jeans are uncompromisingly trendy - they are like thin women's jeans - full of attitude, very varied... real fashion items. I love them. But when our customers have decided what to buy from our selection of jeans, they have ended up choosing other ranges that make more of an effort to fit the larger woman. In particular, Svoboda do not have any elastic in either the denim or the waist.

Although I personally love them, even I didn't end up buying a pair for myself! In an ideal world I would like to stock them every season, because they are so trendy, and look good on the shop floor. Unfortunately, they are also required to look good and feel good on the human body.

However, I really believe that in the future Svoboda will want to maximise its sales, and will introduce a more 'larger-woman-friendly' ethos, and I will be the very first to stock them again.

So what are the jeans most chosen by our customers? Actually, your old friends NP! They've really improved their fit and I think they are some of the best shapes and styles available that also are comfortable and wearable.

We will be doing some 'trouser days' soon, where a consultant will come to the shop to assess your body shape with the aid of her trusty computer (it's great fun), and show you which style of NP trousers suit your own unique shape. These are being held on the 24th and 25th April. If you are interested, do call or email us and we will send you an invite....

 
Hi Emma and thanks for your reply

I'm quite happy with my NPs but its always nice to try something new. Would be interested in your trouser day but as you know I can only make it over from Spain a couple of times a year. Let we know the dates and I'll see.

Regards
NICOLA

 
Nicola

I don't know whether you have seen the new posting - the trouser days are on 24th and 25th April (see below).

I know that you are not always able to travel over at a specific time, but you may be interested to know that the huge consignment of trousers that will come in specially for trouser day will remain in stock for at least a month afterwards. Hopefully, this may give you another bite of the cherry if you are interested in trousers, but unable to come in late April.

I myself will be looking forward to seeing more of the NP jeans. I know you were interested in jeans from other makers, but I do think it may be quite infomative to see more of the NP range - perhaps jeans that we have never seen here before...

For the purposes of choice, we are also pursuing jeans from other ranges, and will keep you posted as and when we have any news.

 
Hi Emma

Glad to hear you will keep extra stock of trousers in after the NP trouser event this week.

I have just booked with Easyjet to come over on May 2nd for the day so hopefully I'll have lots to choose from! I am desperate for jeans as my current pairs of NPs are almost worn out.

See you soon
NICOLA

 
Twice a year we do our buying for the shop. This involves going to fashion houses and trade fairs and ordering the best styles - then going back to the shop in the knowledge that we won't see them for another six months!

It's an exhilarating, frustrating, fascinating, frightening, sometimes infuriating, but often inspiring way to spend one's work time, and one of the reasons why I find working in fashion so intriguing.

It's exciting to go to one of the big fashion shows (like the one held in Duesseldorf, Germany, which we attended last weekend), and walk into the exhibition halls to see what the new looks are going to be. I know it sounds a bit corny, but it is absolutely true that every season the clothes improve enormously. About 20 year ago, when I first started getting involved in plus-size fashion, it was depressing and difficult at times. Although there have always been beautiful clothes available for small women, we had a tremendous struggle coping with the acres of permanently-pleated, frumpy, shapeless, styleless horrors that were on offer for us larger women. There were times, I have to admit, that I actually lost my rag, and found myself furiously haranguing the hapless agents of some collections which I personally took an exception to. To be honest, some of the clothes back then were nothing more than an insult.

Now, when you go to the fashion shows, sometimes the larger clothes just take your breath away. I take great pleasure in the fact that there are styles that a woman of any size would lust after. They are what I call 'unconditional clothes'. They are just gorgeous. You love them, and you haven't had to make any compromise for your size. Hooray!

It's such a funny thing that when I see some absolutely fabulous clothes, I often feel quite angry coming off the stand. This is a totally different kind of anger that I felt in those early days of frustration and offence. It's because these new styles bring out the little girl in me. I love them, I can order them, but what I can't do is get them now. I have to wait six months to have them, but I want them right now! In fact, I would like to walk off the stand wearing them now!

One example of this that I saw at the Duesseldorf show (of which there were a number), was the Anna Scholz stand. Oh boy, was it gorgeous! Amongst so many lovely things, she had the most superb kaftan tops in her trademark glowing colours. She had rich and soft cashmere knits. But most of all, she had what I have tasked myself to find (if I can) each season: The Perfect Dress.

We have been stocking Anna Scholz silk crossover dresses for some time. They are usually made in stretch silk and cross over just under the bust in the most flattering way imaginable. They sell like hot cakes, because they are so feminine, sexy, yet flattering with a real directional fashion edge. Anna has a way of showing off certain curves of a woman's body which is sexy and subtly revealing, whilst magically hiding those (shall we say) less alluring areas that one does not wish to be on display.

Now, in my opinion, she has perfected the dress. To be honest, there were never any faults with it as far as I could see. Each version she produced was different from the previous season, yet achieved the desired effect, and helped to build up a loyal following.

However, this year there was a further pushing of the envelope. The dress was elongated to full length, with a wonderful collar and longer sleeves, with either plain black stretch silk, or a choice of wonderful coloured prints. There was a nod to the seventies vibe, although as someone (just about!) old enough to remember the seventies myself, I have to say we would have killed for anything like this back then, in any size.

What I love about the extra length is that it gives our customisation service more scope. Whereas many women will choose to have this dress as an evening outfit, many others will have it shortened to make it the perfect length for whatever they have in mind. If I owned this dress (and I will), I would wear it on its first outing as an evening dress, then I would shorten it to a day length and I will then wear it a hundred times as my staple dress. I may choose to keep it longish and wear it with lower-heeled pumps, or shortish with killer heels. I could have it midway and team it with boots. It may end up having a number of different incarnations.

What I love about Anna Scholz, and about the best of the ranges that are available today, is the triumph of being able to obtain clothes of this calibre.

Coming off the Anna Scholz stand I felt the familiar pang of childish annoyance. How I wanted that dress - right now! I've got the perfect shoes to wear with it. Six months seems an awfully long time to wait.

Yet it's worth reminding myself that I had the same feeling about many of the clothes that I was buying six months ago, which are coming into the shop now on a daily basis. There are times when it really feels great to be working in this industry.

 
Hi Emma,

I am so impressed with your site. I have been in touch once before and still haven't made it down to Brighton but will soon!

I have a question for you... being 56 and having struggled with my weight since the age of 5 I find now even after dieting, I have a big problem with my legs, from the knees up. Several years ago Speedo used to do swimwear with legs down to the knees... I don't seem to be able to find anything like this at all. Do you have any suggestions? I have been swimming in a body which comes almost down to my knees but isn't ideal.

The other thing is, I love wearing trousers but yet again, my legs are a problem for me. Loose fiiting trousers make me look even bigger and squarer and in my work, leading workshops, I need to be to get down on the floor, move around and look good when standing in front of a large group. do you have any suggestions for this dilemma also?!

many thanks for a stunning site!

Felicity, Cambridge

 
Hi Felicity

Thank you for your post, and kind words about my site - I will forward them to our IT expert!

You have mentioned a perennial problem that affects not just swimwear and trousers but many items of clothing... one's legs. You don't say what your particular problems are - but there are two main ones: size and texture.

Many women carry a disproportionate amount of their weight in their legs. Although this is the healthiest place to carry weight, one can feel very insecure about it being on display. Other women have textural problems with their skin. This can either be cellulite, loose skin (you mention dieting, which can be a cause), or even ridges that they consider aesthetically unpleasing.

If I were a swimwear designer, I would produce a much better selection of swimwear than that on offer in today's marketplace. My ideal range would have two elements (tankini style), with the customer given the choice of a number of different looks that could go together to create her perfect solution. She could choose a relatively svelte top with shorts, for instance, or a floaty, longer top over bikini-style bottoms. Every year I search the ranges, and am still impatiently awaiting something like this to be produced.

In the absence of such a solution I usually suggest an all-in-one swimsuit worn with a sarong. Sorry to be so mundane - and particularly sorry to suggest something which you have probably already thought of! The reality is that if you are covered up on the side of the water, you can quickly strip off the wrap and your legs won't be on show once you are in.

A couple of years ago I visited Australia and went snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef. To my horror, I discovered that we were going to be filmed, and the video sold to us afterwards. So I chose a really pretty, quite long vest, printed in a colourful floral pattern, and wore that over my swimsuit (which of course co-ordinated - I do own a clothes shop, after all!). Once wet, it didn't look that much unlike a swimsuit, except it was far less descriptive! Actually I was delighted with the result, and even bought a copy of the video! We stock vests like this every summer. If you would like one, you could always phone us and we will enter you into the wish-list.

With trousers, you really will need to come into the shop and have a good trying-on session, if that's possible. A lot of disappointment and frustration in fashion is caused not because one can't get anything to suit one, but because one doesn't get the opportunity to find out exactly what is right for one.

For example, if I had two different women in the shop, both of whom have larger legs and both of whom want to have trousers, I may well end up finding they opt for totally different design solutions. Although it is tempting to go for a wide leg when one carries one's weight there (and some people look stunning in them), others look 100 times better if they wear narrow (not too narrow, obviously), stretchy trousers, teamed with a much longer top. The trick is with the cut of the trouser and the texture of the fabric. If one wears narrow trousers, the fabric can be stretchy, but must never be clingy or silky. It has to have a firm texture, and preferably a dark colour. There is simply not enough space on this forum to do this subject justice, and nothing substitutes for a really good trying-on session.

I do believe that if you are able to come into the shop at a time when we are reasonably well-stocked (say, February-May for the spring collection, or September-October for the winter) I have every confidence that we will get you some fab trousers that solve your style conundrum once and for all. We will also be running another 'trouser day' as mentioned on the forum before. If you are able to attend this, you may find it revelatory. The dates are yet to be fixed, but will be posted on the forum when available.

 
Hi Emma

thankyou so much for taking such time to go into this subject in a way that I really felt heard!

I am going to get myself down to Brighton as soon as the Cambridge Academic term is over mid March.... I can't wait to see your collections and try some trousers.

many many thanks
Felicity

 
Just wanted to say thank you for your help on Saturday. I got exactly the trousers I was looking for. Perfect material - nice and cool - and now I have some colour. Really looking forward to wearing them once they have been taken up. You had so many lovely things. It is so rare to have a choice and not just take the one thing that fits even if you are not too keen on it.

As you know I am now looking for the perfect white top - that covers that 'difficult' area. Please keep me updated as I know you have your new stock coming in.

Why is it that most designers for larger sizes never make tops long enough? They always cut them off at exactly the worst possible place.

Thanks again... I'm already looking forward to my next shopping trip.

 
Hi Clare

It was so good to see you on Saturday and I was particularly delighted that you ended up buying the cobalt-blue linen trousers I mentioned on the forum!

The subject of the length of tops is a vexed one. Everyone needs a different length, and most people need different length tops for different functions. For example, tops need to be longer over trousers than over skirts. This is because trouser tops have to skim over one's bottom (and sometimes thighs), not just one's tummy.

We solve this problem in two ways. We try to get a wide selection of different lengths (all long enough to cover at least one's tummy), and then we offer a free alteration service to tweak the selected top to the perfect length.

The one thing that many of my customers seem to agree on is that the High Street does not seem to have understood the need for longer tops for large women. I have a confession to make - although I feel just as aggrieved about this as everyone else, we do benefit from the situation. Women often travel some distance to come to the shop, often because they can't get long enough tops, shirts, jackets and jumpers. It's actually very good for our trade!

The question of why the big chain stores don't seem to have understood this touches on what I think is a fundamental problem in the large-size fashion world. The serial failure of the buyers to understand what we larger women require! Sometimes when I look at what the High Street stores are offering in our sizes I have to draw the conclusion that if they had just one larger woman involved in the selection process they would have a radically different range.

 
Hi,
I'm a tall lady, 40 years old, 6ft 1'' but the downside being I'm about a size 26. I am hoping to shed some weight for a wedding I'm going to in August, but miracles don't happen so suspect I may be down to say a 22/24 if I'm lucky. My query is do you do longer lengths in dresses as I live in trousers and tops which I mix and match from various shops but I'd love a dress not too fitted but suitable for a wedding, not black but colourful. Am I asking too much?

 
Hi Natalie

Congratulations - you have stumbled across a business that takes your needs extremely seriously, and works tirelessly for the taller woman! This is partly because we have so many tall customers, but also perhaps because we happen to be tall ourselves.

Listening to what you want, my best advice is for you to try to get into the shop as soon as possible, or phone us on 01273 327240 and have a chat. This is because we have had some items in this week that may be just what you want, but they are selling extremely quickly.

Size 26 is our medium/large size - virtually the average size we work to, so it is not normally any problem.

We do take great pride in finding items in the correct length for the vertically blessed. For example, we had a customer visit the store just the other day who was bemoaning the fact that she could never get trousers long enough. Her inside leg was 34''. My colleague Jaq and I smiled smugly, casually fetched a pair of our longest jeans and measured the inside leg. It was 37''. The customer, a young woman, squealed with glee. 'Oh, I could wear out the bottoms of those, like everyone else does. I've always wanted to do that!'

Anyway, I digress. Back to the dress situation. There are so many things that have to be right about a dress. For us it has to be fashionable, beautiful, must work on the larger woman and has to be available in our entire size range. This, added to the rarity of getting the longer length, makes for a particularly tricky hunt.

However, it is easier in the summer season than in the winter, and we have succeeded in getting some absolutely gorgeous dresses. I will describe them to you as best I can...

We have had four full-length Anna Scholz dress styles come into stock this week. There is a V-neck dress, which is available in a kind of coral/burned orange floral pattern (as illustrated), and a black, white and grey pattern. There is also a rouched dress, with a kind of boob-tube at the top (with practical shoulder straps, obviously), with soft gathers falling to the ground - also available in these two fabrics. Both dresses have jackets available to go with them and are more than suitable for a fashion-conscious younger woman.

The other dress is from Sallie Sahne, and is a similar design to the Anna Scholz boob-tube dress (with slightly more substantial shoulder straps), in a gorgeous deep lilac blue or black. I would suggest that if you were able to come into the store, now would be an excellent time to do so, because these dresses will sell out quickly. We small independent shops have a rather cruel habit of deliberately under-buying, thus creating a competitive buzz about what we have. This is great for us, but it does mean that we will not be expecting to see these dresses in the store in the summer. They’ll be long gone. In fact, although they only came in on Friday, we sold three of them on Saturday, and, because they are specially made to order for us, we will, in all probability, not be able to re-order them.

One thing I would beg of you... please don’t put off buying your outfit in the hope of losing weight! It can be a dangerous strategy that often backfires. This is because the pressure to lose weight and find a lovely outfit (which is difficult at the best of times) can combine to make the whole experience very stressful, and can lead to a mad dash to find an outfit in the week before the wedding. We normally suggest that you find an outfit that fits you now, buy it and put it in your wardrobe. As the event nears you can bring it back to the shop and then have it fitted to your new slimmer self, free of charge and free of pressure!

 
Dear Emma,
Many thanks for your lovely long reply. I feel so much better knowing that you can cater for me. Your 2nd paragraph regarding ringing you and visiting asap and your last sentence saying I can have it altered nearer the time is fantastic. I have started to make some progress on the dieting lark 4lbs off since my posting to you, but like you say it's the real world and things may stop or slow down. I try not to buy smaller sizes to slim into so your business sounds fabulous and I will visit very soon. Many Thanks - Natalie

 
I am a 5'4'' tall size 20 and have to find an outfit for my son's wedding in July this year. I am an apple shape and am really struggling to find anything to wear. I like colourful clothes and all the outfits I have seen are either designed to be worn in sizes 10 to 14 and look ridiculous in a size 20. Also the colours are so bland. I may be large but I'm no shrinking violet and love strong jewel colours. Do you have any advice on what I could wear (my preference is for trousers by the way!). I don't live anywhere near Brighton otherwise I would call in and see what you have to offer but I found your website and your clothes look great.

 
Hi Rosy,

Thanks for asking for advice about wedding outfits - I’m so glad you have brought up the subject of trouser suits for this purpose. Many women feel they cannot wear a trouser suit (or smart trouser outfit) to a wedding and I’ve found that this can lead to frustration.

This is because a lot of women feel much more comfortable in trousers, and wear them virtually all the time in their everyday lives. Then, when such a woman is going to attend a wedding, just at the very moment when she wants to look her best, she feels she has to leave her comfort zone and buy a dress or a skirt suit. A long, anxious search ensues, during which she sees several gorgeous trouser outfits that she would like, but feels she is not allowed to wear. Eventually she finds a lovely skirt suit that looks good but nevertheless is something she feels rather alien wearing, and which she knows she will never wear again. The whole experience is capped off with arriving at the church or registry office and seeing that so many of the other guests are strutting about in trouser ensembles!

The whole issue of what you are ‘allowed’ to wear to a wedding is fraught, and I do think these days we should just wear something smart, comfortable and flattering to our own physique.

Which brings me on to an apple shape woman wearing a trouser suit! I think it is a particularly good choice. I am an apple shape myself, and I find that a really nice, well-cut trouser combination really suits our body shape. The most important thing about being apple is that you try to get as much elastication as you can in the waist of what you are wearing on your bottom half. It is a really good solution to find a pair of straight-leg trousers with plenty of elastic in the fabric and the waistband, and take a smaller size than you would normally have. This is because if it is a good quality waistband it will stretch enough, and you will get a snug enough fit on your bottom and legs which are probably smallish.

Then you will need to team this with a tailored jacket (not necessarily the traditional 'suit' option of exactly the same fabric. This year suits can comprise toning fabrics of jackets and trousers), which will give your waist a shape. Please don’t worry if you can’t get the jacket done up comfortably. It won’t look good buttoned up on an apple shape; it will simply draw attention to your worst area, your waist. The jacket should be worn open over a contrasting coloured top. This will cut your body in half widthways (always a good thing), whilst at the same time elongating it.

Whereas the jacket and the trousers should be rather tight, the top underneath should be somewhat loose. It doesn’t matter if it is slightly shapeless in itself; the jacket will give you a feminine shape if it is a good one. The main point is that your top must not cling to your tummy. Make sure not to choose a shiny fabric, or one that creases a lot.

I am sorry you are not able to get into the shop: we do have women coming from all over the country to visit us. Just the other day a woman drove down from Hull (and back-in a day!) to shop with us - such is the dearth of good clothes shops for our size.

I think that your worries about colour this summer should be unfounded, at least. The colours this year are wonderful: beautiful purples and lilacs, lime greens, cobalt blues, orange and pearl greys. A strong look for summer this year is black and white - super smart for a wedding. If there is a halfway decent shop in your area, you should find the colours a joy.

I get what you are saying about the clothes available on the High Street not being suitable for the larger woman. It’s an extraordinary thing that the average size of women in Britain is 16, yet this is usually labelled as ‘large’. It should be medium. If the fashion industry made any sense all the clothes should be graded from a size 16, up towards the large sizes and down towards size zero. Then we would get clothes that would suit a size 20 - which is really not so far off the average!

 
I'm coming to Brighton after all!

Thanks for your very helpful reply. My elder son is moving to Brighton next month and so I shall have just the excuse I need to come and visit both him and your shop! He is temporarily living in a street near the centre of Brighton - Tichbourn Street/Road. Is that anywhere near you?

Rosy

 
Hi Rosy!

Oh the dear boy - he's moving just round the corner from us, so you will just have to come in when you come down to visit him. It's a tough job, but someone has to do it!

Please remember that we are closed on Sundays and Mondays - I would hate to find that you have had a wasted journey.

 
One of the things I love about fashion is the wish-fulfilment aspect of it. This is particularly satisfying in the area of larger-size clothes.

There have been many times during my career in fashion when what I have wanted has only been available in small sizes, and I have felt so frustrated that I have almost given up all hope in ever getting it in my size.

For instance, years ago I saw a film set in Norway (or Sweden - some Scandinavian country, anyway), where the (size zero, probably) heroine was wearing the most beautiful coat. I couldn’t tell you the plot of the story: I have no idea whether the heroine died in the end or married some fabulous hunk.

But I remember that coat. It was made of the softest sheepskin, with the suede on the outside and the soft, luxurious wool pile on the inside. The coat was black, full length, and the material so supple that the collar rippled like a wave as the actress slipped it on.

How I sighed when I saw that coat. I’d never seen anything like it in our size range and there was no reason to suppose I ever would. Yet, without my knowing it, the fashion fairy godmother was busily working away, finding some way to create that coat.

When I saw it, it was in the James Lakeland showroom, about three years ago. It was obviously not the same coat - there were probably many stylistic differences - but the magic was the same. It was everything I had imagined it to be: the woolly inside as soft as cashmere, the suede outside lush and velvety. The cut was generous, while retaining the feminine Italian styling. And it was available in sizes up to 28.

I only got one of those coats for our shop. It was fiercely expensive. I was never able to own one myself, but that wasn’t the point. It was like a little bit of magic. I had wished for that coat when it just seemed like an impossible dream... and then it had appeared. Someone loves us larger women enough to create clothes like this for us!

Actually, I don’t know who the lucky woman who got that coat was. I do hope she enjoys wearing it - it will last a lifetime.

 
Flicking through the fashion section of my weekend magazine this week, I can see why fashion can sometimes bring out the worst in people. For the nth time there it was... the article about the moment's ‘in’ item of clothing, accompanied by a picture.

The article was about the ‘return’ of the jumpsuit, and the photograph was yet another tiny woman sporting a version of the same. The garment they are referring to, for the uninitiated few, is an all-in-one trouser suit, akin to a pilot’s flying outfit or a baby’s romper-suit.

I wonder what they mean about ‘return’. I am old enough to remember the jumpsuit in the previous incarnation that I believe the fashion journalists are referring to. I’m not talking about the sexy and figure-enhancing delights of the nineteen-forties landgirls (that’s sarcasm, by the way). I’m talking about when the jumpsuit really came to the notice of the fashion press - namely in the seventies and eighties.

I was a teenager back then. Of course I was large at the time. I’ve been large all my life. In the seventies and early eighties I was all of a size 16 (enormous, I know!). But just because I was a big girl (it’s odd that, isn't it... by being the average size, a girl can be seen as huge), it didn’t stop me being interested in fashion.

I had a friend called Mandy who was also roughly the same size as me (albeit about a foot shorter) and we were partners in crime. The two of us would trawl through all the fashion shops (like Top Shop, Snob, Chelsea Girl, Miss Selfridge etc), hunting out the nearest we could get to the latest looks in our size.

I don’t know how I thought a jumpsuit would look on my apple-shaped figure. Between the ages of 14 to 20 many girls are just finding their fashion feet, and need to experiment. The whole point of hunting these fashions down was to try them on and see how they looked on me.

Well, Mandy and I hit paydirt in an uber-trendy little boutique. It was not normally the kind of shop we could afford to frequent. Ordinarily, the rake-thin, twenty-something denim-clad coolster who worked there would have frozen us out of the shop. However, on this occasion they had a sale, and so she grudgingly accepted that we could take our place at the very bottom of the fashion food chain. To our amazement there was not one, but two jumpsuits (both identical) on the reduced rail in our size! They were discounted down to such a low price that even my friend and I could afford to buy them.

So we scooped up our treasured finds and shot into the changing rooms. I say changing rooms. Actually, they were small alcoves fitted with a kind of saloon-door at the front, complete with wooden slats like venetian blinds. These were just about able to cover your modesty, and provided an environment not particularly designed to make a young girl, who was already feeling somewhat self-conscious, feel relaxed in any way.

It took me some time to remove my skinny jeans (all apple shaped women, it seemed to me, wore skinny trousers and huge jumpers in those days), so I was a bit behind my friend in getting into the jumpsuit.

The first indication I had that there may be any suitability problem with the jumpsuit look came when I heard a low, gurgling murmur coming from the adjacent cubicle. The gurgling got louder and louder, with pauses for gasps for breath the only break in the crescendo. For a moment I actually wondered if my friend was choking on something. I hurried into my jumpsuit so I could leave my cubicle to see what was up with her.

However, as soon as I saw my reflection in the mirror, I immediately knew the meaning of the sound emanating from her cubicle. It didn’t take too long before both of us were in hysterics.

Of course, I don’t have to tell any larger woman over the age of 20 what to expect when you wear an item like a jumpsuit. The problem with this particular item of clothing is that it is far too descriptive. There is no room in a jumpsuit to have any body imperfections. You’ve got a big bottom? Just pop this jumpsuit on, and show the world! Your legs and thighs are not as sylph-like as you would ideally like? Why not elicit the opinion of the entire high street, by exhibiting them publicly in this!

Every curve on one’s body comes under scrutiny in a jumpsuit. It’s no good some slim woman trying to tell us that some of them are quite baggy. If they are baggy, they simply hang from the shoulders and settle on each and every surface that isn’t vertical. That’s why they suit women whose bodies are made up mainly of vertical lines. Clothes like this tend to have the appearance, on anyone larger than a size 10, of looking like someone has thrown a dustsheet over some item of furniture.

If they are fitted then the situation is even worse, with the cruel truth of one’s imperfections spelt out loud and clear in anatomical detail.

As an apple shape I didn’t have much of a bottom, nor did I have a big bust. This meant that the suit’s emphasis on the waist really came into its own - stretched as it was across by belly. Bodily, I looked entirely male. In fact, I think my figure looked rather like that of Oliver Hardy in the film where he donned an all-in-one overall to do the painting in the classic Laurel and Hardy film. Nice.

My friend had an altogether different problem. She was not an apple shape. No, she described herself as a ‘melon lady’; that is to say she was large-busted. We both came out of our cubicles and stood side by side. Mandy’s figure, I felt, didn’t look quite as bad as mine - at least she looked female. The main problem is that she looked like a female wearing a jumpsuit with two large balloons pushed down the front.

When I had first seen myself in the mirror wearing that jumpsuit, I had not thought that anything could look funnier. I was wrong, standing side by side wearing the same suit the pair of us looked hilarious. The suit managed to over-emphasise, to a ridiculous degree, the worst in both of us.

To be honest, we all know that a jumpsuit doesn’t look good on anyone over a size 14 at the absolute outside. Which means that the average woman will, in all probability, choose not to wear it. Looking around streets, offices and homes generally, any impartial observer, ignorant to the caprices of fashion, would simply conclude that women do not wear all-in-one trouser creations. So much for its ‘return’ to fashion.

This is why, when reading these articles about fashion, it brings out the worst in some of us. It can make us feel irritable, cynical, excluded. It’s items like the jumpsuit that give fashion a bad name, yet they do have their place in the world of real, grown-up clothing. For those of us who work in this industry it is worthwhile keeping an eye on these trends and seeing what we can glean from them, and what can be translated into the kind of fashion that we would wear.

For instance, we can take from the styling the references to the seventies and eighties vibes that are very prevalent at the moment. We can see that colour blocking, if used well, can be very flattering in lengthening the body, that soft tailoring is in; that smart casual trousers are having a moment right now. We can look at the details of the buttons, zips and fabrics, colour shades, textures and embellishments.

The designers can sometimes push a particular look that is either elitist or ridiculous, but we mustn’t forget that it is the designers that breathe life into the fashion industry, and we should all be grateful for their creativity. Every one of us can benefit from a bit of a style injection.

It’s up to us to use our own taste, discrimination and judgement to sift through the latest looks to find out what really works for us. And if you have better things to do with your time than undertake this task, you may choose to frequent a good fashion shop that will do the legwork for you.

 
What do you say to someone who asks your opinion about something that they are trying on, if they really love it, but you think they look awful? This is the question I am most commonly asked by my customers.

Like all the most interesting questions, it is apparently simple, yet in reality very complicated.

Here at the shop we work very closely with our customers. This is because we are small and independent.

In a lot of large stores the customer virtually serves herself. One gets used to being studiously ignored by a sales assistant who looks like she has something infinitely more important to do with her time than to assist the person who is paying her wages (the customer). Actually it can get worse than this. When asking for assistance a larger woman can even find herself being subtly sneered at.

It tends to be different in the ‘independent’ sector of retailing. If I had to give a reason for this in a nutshell, I would say that it is because most independent retailers have the proprietors on the premises at some point or another. If these businesspeople see customers walking around looking lost, and particularly if they see them leaving the shop without having occasion to open their purses, the owners tend to focus on a sales opportunity slipping through their fingers. If a storeowner witnesses a customer being sneered at by a member of staff, an eruption of seismic proportions can occur. And this doesn’t tend to happen twice.

Hence, in the past, some independent stores went in the opposite direction to the big chains, but not necessarily in a good way. Instead of finding a blasé sales assistant aloofly standing chatting with her colleagues, the poor customer may come across her exact opposite... namely, the Flogger.

The Flogger is a fearsome creature. She is a woman whose only task in life is to sell, sell, sell, to anyone who is unfortunate enough to have wandered into her territory. No outfit is too inappropriate, no size too inadequate, to halt her in her awesome determination to flog it to you. Let’s just say, you wouldn’t rely on the Flogger to give you an impartial opinion on your clothes.

This may increase sales in the very short term, but is it likely, in the end, to help the development of the business, by promoting good customer relations? I would say that the prevalence of the Flogger in the past sounded the death knell for many independent shops, and damaged the whole industry for a while. Even as recently as ten years ago there were still Floggers alive and well and plying their trade in Brighton, and scaring the life out of the public. People lived in fear of going into an unfamiliar outlet, in case they were harangued to within an inch of their lives.

We independent sector stores have had to survive against fearsome opposition. Big stores may have lackadasical sales assistants, but they can buy in bulk and keep their expenses down. They can take up massive retailing space in out-of-town developments, which are easy to access. They can pay a fortune for advertising, and they can screw down their suppliers to give them special discounts (which they don’t always bother passing on to the customer).

So we have had to find a place for ourselves in this incredibly competitive industry. We’ve done it by concentrating on excellence. And one of the areas that we have particularly excelled in is customer service.

No-one can say that they always achieve excellence... only that they aspire to it, and work hard towards reaching it. You can’t always get it right. We certainly don’t attempt to impose our taste on our public (if you want that kind of thing, I’m sure Trinny and Susanna are available). We try to work closely with a woman to achieve the look she seeks - or to introduce her to an unexpected new look that she will love. We exist to provide a service.

It isn’t our job to stop someone getting the outfit she wants, just because we don’t agree with it. But we can give educated, thoughtful, tasteful and honest feedback if she wants it. And shut up if she doesn’t. However, we will not lull her into a false sense of security if she is relying on us. People come to our shop to get something they look fabulous in, and we take that very seriously. So yes, if she wants us to, we will tell her if a look doesn't work, even if she loves it.

If a customer really adores something that she looks awful in, it is worth finding out exactly what it is that she likes so much. Chances are there are other clothes out there that have this magic aspect, that would suit the woman more.

If it turns out, however, that she knows exactly how she looks in the outfit, and still loves it, then our work is done. She may, after all, have better taste than we do.

 
My son is getting married in May and I have been trawling the internet for plus size outfits for weeks. I have been getting more and more depressed thinking I will not be able to find anything smart, different but reasonably trendy. Having only just come across your site, I would be really grateful if you would advise if you have anything suitable.

Being under 50, I would really like something colourful, preferrably a trouser suit, that I would be able to wear again (not everyday, but on special occasions). Living in Winchester I would be able to make the journey down to your shop if you are likely to have anything suitable.

Thank you so much.

Sharin

 
Dear Sharin

Congratulations to your son on the forthcoming wedding! I am glad to hear that you have found us, and are interested in our range.

You do not mention your size, but if you are in the range between a large 18 to size 34, we do have a lot of wedding outfits that are beautifully colourful and trendy. This is the time of year that we are particularly well-stocked, so you are in luck.

Our look is quite young and fashion-orientated, and we find that our customers are looking for versatile clothes. Most women now would want something they will wear over and over again, rather than a really over-the-top look that would only be worn once.

I would recommend that you phone us on 01273 327240 and talk to us. We do have a lot of customers coming from over your way. I know it sounds ridiculous, but in comparison to many of our customers, you are really close to us!

It is very important, though, if you are having to travel to get here, to make sure that we have got plenty of options in your size range, to make the journey worthwhile, so we do recommend phoning first.

 
Thank you for your response.

As soon as I sent the message I realised I'd not put my size, which is 22/24.

I will ring the shop tomorrow to check as you suggested, and if you have any suitable stock, would like to come down on Saturday.

Thank you again for your help.

Sharin

 
Hi Emma and Jaq,
I've had a good look at your website and can't wait to see your lovely clothes in person! I love the forum and all your wonderful replies, Emma, it's lovely that you take the time to answer ladies questions so thoroughly.
I would like to see some crease free clothes if possible, some trousers would be good and perhaps a nice top which would be suitable for day and evening wear. If I can get a nice outfit for Lourdes that would be great!
Looking forward to seeing you, and as I'm now a size 18/20 I will be able to fit into your very smallest clothes!
Love, Ruth. x

 
Hi Ruth!

To everyone out there in cyberspace, Ruth is my cousin who is now considerably smaller than the last time she visited my shop several years ago (we are nearly all fuller-figured in our family, it seems!). Well done for shrinking, Ruth.

We do try always to stock easy-wear clothes, that are stretchy and non-creasing, suitable for work or travel. My ideal travel outfit for the summer is cool, casual, but smartish in an easy kind of way (one never knows, there may be a chance to get bumped up in the flight), and I would like it to be pretty and colourful too.

Luckily, there is a ready supply of these kinds of clothes from ranges such as Deluca (T-shirts and tops), Exelle (soft drapey jerseywear) and NP (just about every kind of casualwear you could mention - from jeans to jackets).

I hope you will find just what you are looking for in the shop when you visit soon.

 
Hi

Just wanted to say that i am so glad i finally made it to your shop. Having known of your existance for a while i finaly visited needing an outfit for a wedding and it was a real pleasure and as you know i could have bought lots more!
I am looking forward to my next visit already

Thanks

Andi

 
Hi Andi

Thank you for your kind words! It was great to see you, and I'm so happy you liked the range. We had such a busy week that I'm afraid that we may not have been able to give everyone the level of attention that we normally do, so I hope you were well taken care of!

I was glad you found plenty to like - we are certainly very well stocked at the moment...

 
A week ago we placed the new photographs of this season’s collection on our website, and, as ever, revealed what I think is the most important thing that a fashion shop has to offer its customers... a point of view.

A viewpoint in fashion is not something theoretical - it isn’t something pretentious or hyperbolic. It is a real, solid and - once you start to look for it - blatantly obvious feature that really hits you when you come into contact with any boutique.

I once worked for a store that did not have a point of view. Or I should say, its point of view was to be all-things-to-all-women. There really was something for everyone. There were little-old-lady dresses in crimpeline with permanent pleats and elasticated waists. There were ritzy tops with appliqué, to be worn with leggings. There were bizarre jumpers with teddy-bear motifs for overblown schoolgirls. There were cotton separates for busy mums. And there were bouffed-up ballgowns and sparkly cruise wear for the affluent at play.

There were really cheap, tacky items that would have put the cheapest chain store to shame, and there were dresses the prices of which would have made the buyers at the most celebrated prestige retail palace turn pale with fear.

There were outfits for women with impeccable taste. There were clothes for women who were too busy to bother about taste. And there were atrocious items for (in my experience, theoretical) customers devoid of either sense or discrimination.

I remember looking at that collection when it was delivered to the store, and bursting into tears. I suppose that as soon as I saw those clothes I knew that the job was not going to last.

In order for a store to be successful and create a place for itself in the psyche of shoppers it really has to have a firm identity. I think for a fashion store this means that one must know instantly whether an item of clothing is right for the shop or not. And you know whether or not the store is right for you.

Busy women often have to travel quite some distance to reach a store, and it is an irritating waste of time to get there only to find that the substance of the place is completely different to what was expected. The Holy Grail is to walk into a store with a personality that gels with one’s own. No-one expects to like or need everything that is stocked, but to find that you and the buyers are on the same page is an incredibly good feeling. When you discover a store like this you feel it is a gift, and you will come back over and over again.

And if you are interested to see what we are all about, I would recommend - if you have not already done so - that you click on the 'Our Range' heading on the homepage. You will then see our own particular point of view.

 
Hi Emma: I'm Spanish, from the north, just in San Sebastian (a lovely city). I would like to know if you can buy your clothes from here. I think very nice. You write with a traductor. Please tell me something soon. Thank you very much.

 
Dear Arantza

Thank you for your enquiry. I am glad you like our clothes. We are not set up for mail order at the moment. We want to do some in the future, however, so if you are interested then please add your details to our online mailing list and we will contact you at the appropriate time.

We do send out some clothes (we even have an existing customer in Spain), and are happy to do so. When we do this we are acting like a 'personal shopper'; that is to say, selecting the clothes we think a customer will like, in a size and fit that is right for them. This is usually very successful, with anything that is not right just being refunded.

My worry in your case is that, in order to do this, we usually spend some time chatting to our customers on the telephone and getting a really good idea of them and their requirements. From your post, I understand that you would need a 'traductor' - a translator - and I am concerned that the level of communication between us may not be good enough for a 'personal shopper' type relationship.

Of course I may be very wrong about this - your post was in excellent English. But I do not have any Spanish, I'm afraid. If you would like to talk to us (I'm so sorry, it has to be in English!) then please call 0044 1273 327240, and ask to speak to Jaq or Emma.

 
Hola Artanza

Soy inglesa pero actualmente vivo en Madrid. Voy 2 veces al año para comprar toda mi ropa en Emma Plus porque siempre tienen muchas cosas para elegir. Aquí en españa no he encontrado muchos sitios donde se vende tallas grandes salvo en El Corte Ingles que es muy cara y la selección está limitada.

Si tienes la posibilidad de visitar a su tienda merece la pena y con el cambio entre el euro y la libra ahora sale más barato. Brighton tambien es una ciudad muy bonita para pasar un fin de semana!

Saludos
NICOLA

 
Hello Nicola

I would like to thank you so much for writing this post! For all those out there in cyberspace, Nicola is our customer who lives in Spain! She has taken the time to write to Artanza in Spanish.

I hope you don't mind, Nicola, if I just put a little translation of what you've said here, for the benefit of the English speakers!

'Hello Artanza

I am English but at present I live in Madrid. I go twice a year to buy all my clothes in Emma Plus because they always have many things to choose from. Here in Spain I have not found many places where large sizes are sold, except in The English Cut, which is very expensive and with a limited selection.

If you have the possibility to visit this store, it is worthwhile and with the changes between the euro and the pound, now it is cheaper. Brighton is a very pretty city to pass a weekend!

Greetings NICOLA'

 
Hello - help! I am going to a very special charity event for an old friend who has Motor Neurone Disease. It's a black tie 'do' but the theme is 'Red, White and Blue'. I have been trawling the internet for days and have just discovered your wonderful website. As luck would have it, I will be in West Sussex for a few days at the end of the month and can definitely come and visit you. I have a wedding and two parties to attend in addition to the main event, so I am looking for a 'killer' outfit that will fit all occasions! I saw a super red trouser suit displayed - would that be available still and in a size 22?

Thank you so much - what a relief to find such a great website.

Best wishes - Sally

 
Hi Sally

Thank you for your kind comments about our site, and congratulations for your support of such a worthwhile charity event!

We do have quite a few beautiful items that would fit into the red white and blue theme. Blue is a particularly strong look this year, and red and white are staples that nearly always make some kind of appearance in our collection, summer or winter.

I worry that the jacket you have seen on the website may have sold out in your size. We still have one in stock, but I fear that it may be a bit too big for you. However, I was considering trying to re-order this style, so you may still be in luck.

We have an unusual way of buying, in that we buy a wide range of items, but nothing in any depth. What this means is that we tend to have 3 or 4 of any particular item, but we have hundreds of different styles. There are advantages and disadvantages to this. On the plus side, it means that when you come into the store, you'll find a choice of hundreds of different looks, and you'd be very unlucky ever to see anyone else wearing what you have bought. On the minus side, once the item has gone into stock it sells out very quickly. Many times, sold out items cannot be re-ordered.

I think that when you get to the store you will be spoiled for choice. We look forward to meeting you when you come in at the end of the month.

 
Dear Emma - your hatred of clothes shopping mirrors my own and for all the same reasons! Imagine my delight, therefore, on entering your shop last Saturday 28th March, to find that none of the usual irritations and frustrations applied. You and your team are amazing. The 'Emma Plus' experience was so positive and uplifting; what a contrast!
Thank you for your warm welcome and your extremely valuable advice and input. I will be back!

 
Hi Sally

Thank you so much for your kind words! I have to say, I do really enjoy coming into work and spending quality time with like-minded, and lovely people like yourself!

 
Hi Emma - here as promised is a picture of me wearing The Outfit, along with my husband Tom, taken in the No. 1 Court Debentures Lounge at the All England Club just last night. We had a great evening. Thank you for all your help and advice.

Best wishes to your and your team. See you later in the year.

Sally

 
Hi Sally

I can't tell you how happy you have made me, posting your photograph! You and your husband look superb. I'm very proud to have been a small part of this story!

One of the reasons why we started the forum (as I explained to you in the store) was that some women have had difficult experiences in trying to find really lovely clothes in our size range, and have begun to doubt that they will ever really find something gorgeous for a special event.

We wanted to share some of the stories of women finding a lovely look for a significant moment, and illustrate them so that people get to see the end result.

What the photograph is not able to illustrate, however, is what a lovely woman you are, and how supportive you are towards your friends and good causes (I've embarrassed you now!).

I hope to see you again in the store in the future!!

 
In the winter of 2007 we had an fascinating and unique event. One of our suppliers, NP, has been making a long-term study on women’s body shapes and how they affect the fit of trousers. And they suggested we do a ‘Trouser Day’ - a special trouser event for the benefit of our customers.

Ordinarily, for a supplier to find out more about the many different ideal trouser shapes for women, wouldn’t really make much difference. Most ranges only do a small number of trouser styles, and these form part of their collections. To put it succinctly, if you like the jacket of a trouser suit, you have to take the trousers that match it, or leave them - there is only one style on offer.

NP is very different, though. It is one of the oldest and best-established of all the large size brands, and has a massive range. I’m lucky enough to have visited its superb factory in Helsinki, Finland, and I got a deeper understanding of the NP philosophy. Looking around its very large, gleaming, and excellently organised facility, you realise that NP is really passionate about what it is doing. And it has brought a serious, studious and comprehensive attitude to pattern cutting and fit.

When it researched women’s shapes, it came up with a comprehensive range of trouser styles, one of which (unless you are spectacularly unlucky) will fit you.

It is very proud of what it has done, and in order to try to bring this knowledge to customers, it has sent trained members of staff into selected stores, equipped with a computer, programmed to do the work of analysis. Place your measurements into its system, and you will be given your ideal trouser shape. To top this off, it has sent consignments of hundreds of pairs of trousers into the stores, so women will be able to try them on straight away.

We were the very first store in the UK to hold a trouser day, and it was a fantastic success. I think for the first time countless women actually realised that they were not alone in having trouble getting a good fit with trousers, and were able to walk away, for once, with their perfect pair.

When it comes to computers, I am a born cynic - but even I was impressed with the system it has developed. It was so wonderful for all of us to have the tools to do the job of finding the right trousers for all our customers.

I know that some women were not able to make the trouser day last time, and I have been asked to do another one. Actually, many of those who did attend have asked for another one, this time in the spring/summer season, so we are now meeting the demand. We are running the trouser days on 24th and 25th April.

Those of you who are looking at your calendars right now will realise that, sadly, you have missed the Trouser Days, for 2009, anyway! Please see below for details....

 
Trouser Days update...

It's the Sunday after the Trouser Days, and I am still recovering from my efforts, which have exhausted me. These days were a fantastic success this year - even better attended than the last ones. All the girls pulled together and collated the pairs of trousers that flooded into the store. They then worked incredibly hard to make sure that the many customers (who also flooded in) got the best service possible on the two days. I know that the girls are as exhausted as I am right now! Jaq, in particular, was in charge of the very different shop floor - which took a lot of organisation. It was a huge project, which she managed to perfection.

I was the only one that didn't achieve optimum performance - I was going to take a photograph of the Trouser Days in full flight to place on this blog, but it was just so incredibly busy that I never got the chance. Actually, on past experience, I should have known that was going to happen - duh!

We had to send some of the trousers back straight away (there were just too many to keep in the store), but we have retained as many as possible. So despite the success of the Trouser Days, for anyone who wasn't able to make it on Friday and Saturday it's worth knowing that for the next month or so there are an unusually high number of trousers in differing styles, colours and sizes in the store.

 
I was wondering if you stocked the Sempre Piu brand of basic camisole tops in a size 26/28?

 
Hi Susan

You've really got me there! Not only do I not stock this range, but I don't believe I've ever heard of it. Do you know what country it is made in? It would help in trying to track it down.

One of the reasons why I started the forum/blog was to find out what women wanted and see what I could do about it.

I would certainly be happy to look at any ranges that are recommended to me by customers. I won't necessarily be able to stock them all, but it's very useful information to know what people like and why....

 
Hi Susan

I have now found out that Sempre Piu is part of Chalou - a range that we have not handled to date.

I have been looking at Chalou and we may stock them at some point in the future. If I do end up stocking the Sempre Piu camis I will mention it here, on the forum/blog.

In the meantime, good luck with your search...

 
I hate clothes shopping. There, I’ve said it. I know it will be a very shocking thing for many of my customers to hear.

When I tell people I hate shopping, they tend to be surprised. I do own a retail outlet, after all! I get the impression that some people think I am a bit of a hypocrite to be a shop owner if I hate shopping myself. But I believe this to be an ideal qualification.

When one analyses what constitutes shopping for clothes, it doesn’t sound like there’s anything to dislike. It should entail leaving the house and travelling to a retail outlet where there is plenty of choice, choosing items to try on, selecting the desired purchase, paying, and returning home with lots of goodies. What’s not to love about this process?

If only...

When I go shopping, nothing seems to work like this. First there is the trailing around loads of different shops, pounding the pavement, looking for places that sell the correct size. There are thousands and thousands of shops dedicated to selling small sizes. These are businesses engaged in jostling for market share in the overcrowded section of the fashion industry, selling items for the minority of women who appear to have all the choice. Yet there is a dearth of shops selling items in my size. I would have thought that my money is the same as anyone else’s, but it is not competed for on the high street in anywhere near the same way.

Eventually I find a large store, enter it, and immediately start to find lots of tiny irritations that end up building into a giant headache.

For instance, it’s difficult to find a specific size, or to find matching items in an unfamiliar shop floor layout. I look around for advice, and there appear to be no staff anywhere. As a retailer, I find this bizarre. What is there then to prevent theft? I push these thoughts aside and battle on.

The rails are overcrowded, and the hangers are the standard ones for small clothes. This means that as soon as I try to pull an item off the rail to look at it, several other items slide onto the floor. There follows the guilty 10 seconds when I contemplate leaving them there. I know that if I try to put these large clothes back on the insufficiently large hangers, they will simply slide off again.

The shop itself is overcrowded with stock. Rails are squeezed in everywhere - meaning that you can't see the wood for the trees - and manoeuvring around the rails is annoying.

It’s also very hot and there is nowhere that I can put down my coat, so I have to lug it around. My feet are swollen, and I could really do with a sit down and a cup of tea. This, of course, is an absurd notion. I am far too busy having fun shopping to take refreshments!

The changing room is tiny and ill lit. The view of the mirror is too close-up to be able to make an informed, yet private, decision. There are not enough hooks, and no chair to sit-in whilst I try the trousers on. To add to my delight, there is loud, jangling music blaring overhead. There is a bizarre mis-match between the ultra-loud, ultra-trendy music that seems aimed at teenagers, and the frumpy clothes aimed at an altogether older age group. This music, with the throbbing strip lighting, is putting me in a bit of a mood to say the least. I just hate this kind of experience.

As the Honda adverts say, hate can be a powerful force for good. When arranging my shop, I have tried to think about all of these disagreeable aspects (and more) - to make a more comfortable shopping experience. I have made larger, brighter changing rooms, with everything you need inside. I have bought flock hangers that grip the clothes - so nothing ever slides off. I have placed the rails further apart, sorted out the lighting (as best I can), quietened the music, provided a comfy chair (and husband-friendly space), sorted out the provision of teas and coffees. We’ve got staff who want to help and who know their stuff. The shop is as cool as I can get it, especially in summer. To top it all, I’ve also gone to amazing bother and expense of making sure our shop is next door to a large car park, so no pavement pounding is necessary.

I’m not saying it’s a perfect shopping experience, but we try. Actually, I believe that nothing qualifies you better to be a shop owner than a hatred of shopping.

 
Hi there,

I found your site some time early last year and always tried to make it down to Brighton, but I have never managed it. I think part of the reason is that I am afraid I will not find anything that I like. I am 33 years old, short (5 ft 1) and very curvy - size 18, big boobs, defined waist. I always struggle in stores that cater specifically for plus size because the clothes are too long and not really suitable for someone in their 30's as the styles are more for older women.

Can you recommend any items from your collections for a young and modern girl? I would also LOVE to wear jeans. I only tend to wear them when I have lost weight, but rather than hold off for weight loss again, I would love to find some nice, flattering, comfortable jeans for my short legs and big bum - any suggestions?

Many thanks
Christina

 
Hi Christina

Thank you for your post. I totally understand your predicament, and get behind where you’re coming from!

I think that you are suffering from several disadvantages. One is that really beautiful clothes in larger sizes do tend to be geared more towards women in their late thirties and upward, and the another is that many larger-sized clothes are designed for taller women.

Your problem is compounded by the fact that you are curvy, by which I mean that you have the kind of shape that really benefits from fitted clothes, rather than drapy ones.

Many companies that sell mail order specialise in more drapy styles, which are easier to fit a wide range of women, so minimising returns. To be honest, though, even if you were able to buy fitted styles by mail order, they would probably not fit you properly. This is because you would need to get the correct waist-to-hip ratio in the right place - not a particularly easy thing to do when you have to make your choice by looking at photographs of the clothes on six-foot tall, straight up and down models!

What really annoys me about your situation is it is not as if you are alone! The average size of a British woman is 16 (not a million miles from your size), and the average height is 5’4” - closer, in fact, to your height than it is to the aforesaid 6’ model. There are literally millions of women like you!

We have many customers who are in your predicament, although you may be a little small for us. We tend to specialise in size 20 or above - we do some 18s, but the selection is not so great. It’s true that we do have many middle-aged and older customers, but we also regularly have women in your age group, and younger, shopping with us.

The most important thing that we do is to offer an alteration service. This means that when you have selected the clothes that you want, we will fit them to your shape, and then send them on to you. This service is usually completely free.

I know that in the beginning some women don’t really want to have clothes altered. I can understand this. If it were possible to walk out of the shop with all your gorgeous clothes straight away, we would all wish to do it. Also, the first time that you have this done there is always an element of concern. What is involved in the alteration process - will it really work…?

However, after having clothes altered to fit their shape most women are completely hooked, and it’s one of the major reasons why women travel miles and miles to come to us.

I think that over a period of time you will come to find a selection of ranges that will suit your personality and body shape. The obvious choice for you would be Anna Scholz. Her look is young and sassy, and it is also fitted and sexy. It’s not cheap, though, and it will almost certainly need alterations (Anna Scholz herself is about 6’2”, and some of her clothes are long). Virtually every week that we have Anna Scholz items in stock we sell one to a curvy woman, and alter it to fit properly. This is how our seamstress earns her living!

When it comes to jeans, I would just find a pair that you like the look of, and get us to alter them so that you really like the fit. Then wear them every day until you get another pair altered for you, because when you have a pair of jeans fitted to you, you will not want to wear any other jeans.

I would always suggest that you - and women like you (i.e. young women who want plenty of choice) - should come in early in the season if you are able. Right now is a good time, and for the winter season, September/October is also good. What people don’t realise about small shops like ours is that we tend to get most of our collection in all at one time, and as the season goes by it sells through. This leaves a much-diminished choice later in the season. If independent designer clothes retailing were a game, the object of the game would be to sell everything before the end of July, and have a completely empty shop just before the winter season’s stock was delivered! Obviously this doesn’t happen, but the choice in July cannot be compared with the choice right now.

 
Having been asked many times about disabled access to our shop, I think it would be worthwhile discussing this subject on the forum/blog.

As I have mentioned before, our shop is right next door to a big NCP car park (called the Theatre Car Park). In the lower level there is a bank of disabled parking spaces and from there small, accessible ramps lead out on to the road behind - i.e. Church Street, our road.

Just a matter of feet away is our front door, which is wide and has only a small step. I have never known any wheelchair user to have a problem accessing this door, but we are always on hand to help.

Our shop is quite spacious (for an independent shop), and the rails are set out in such a way that it is easy to travel around. If someone needs a chair, there is always one on offer (a good, sturdy comfortable chair, of course!). We are always there to help with the selection of clothes.

Many of our customers have a visual impairment, and we are past masters at helping to put together outfits for specific purposes.

Our shop is far from perfect. There is no disabled toilet, and to our chagrin there are four steps up to the counter, so it does happen that many of our wheelchair-using customers never actually make it to the payment area (this does not pose a problem, normally, because we have a cordless card reader that can reach anywhere in the store). Worst of all, our changing rooms are rather out of reach for wheelchair users. Access to these is possible through our back door, but most people don’t bother.

We find that most wheelchair-using customers prefer to take advantage of a particular service we offer instead of using the changing rooms. Usually, we do not offer refunds - if a customer decides she wants to return something because she has changed her mind, we would normally offer either an exchange or a credit note. With our customers who have mobility issues, however, we allow them to purchase items and try them on at home, returning them for a refund if they prove inappropriate.

It is worth mentioning that because we tend to have many disabled customers, and because we have generally had the same staff for many years, we have a wealth of experience. We have a pretty good idea about many of the issues involved in the necessary performance of clothing for disabled women. We’re good at offering physical assistance; we can help with measurements, and provide advice about fit. Items can be specially altered to suit women’s requirements, and women are welcome to bring in items bought from elsewhere to take advantage of our alteration expertise.

Disabled women have been our loyal customers from the very first days we opened Emma Plus, and they have been among the backbone of our customer base. We hope always to continue to build this valuable relationship.

 
How are you gals... love what you have done here and as a long standing customer and friend - just wanted to add my two (c)pence in.
This is the best place to go to get the best clothes for us better endowed ladies!
Emma and Jaq are real trend setters!
See you soon I hope
XX00
Kathy

 
Hi Kathy

How lovely of you to place this post, and how great to hear from you!

I hope you are well - and that we see you soon. Thank you for your kind words.

 
Where do all the rules come from? I’m not talking about those essential rules that we all have to live by - ‘Thou shalt not kill’, or even the (slightly more trivial) ‘never ask a woman her age’. I’m talking about so-called ‘fashion rules’.

Hardly a day seems to go by without one of these rules jumping up to bite us in the most frustrating way. Sometimes they are hidden. Tacit, unspoken rules that govern what women will and won’t try on. These act like an invisible wall between customers and what they want and/or suit. Sometimes they are shouted from the rooftops - as if quoted by people reading from some stone tablet brought down to us by a sage prophet.

If you don’t yet know what I’m getting at, I’ll quote just a few for you... ‘Red and green should never be seen, unless there is something in between’. ‘No to widthways stripes’. ‘Avoid being mutton dressed as lamb’. ‘Don’t wear a bright colour with black’.

I heard a perfectly stupid and illogical one last week. Actually, I’ve heard this one many times before, and it really gets my goat. It is ‘Never wear a retro-fashion if you are old enough to have worn it the first time round’. This particular gem poked its bossy head up this time- doing its best to stop a woman buying a pair of bootcut trousers that she looked superb in.

When you deconstruct this item of wisdom, it’s clear to see it for what it is. Daft. And oppressive.

Take, for example, those incredibly stylish women who formulate a certain fashion image all their own, and stick with it their entire lives. Like the film star Katherine Hepburn, for instance. We’ve all seen the gorgeous photographs of her, taken in the nineteen-thirties... she was the one wearing the baggy pants, silk shirt, cotton-jumper-tied-round-the-neck look. Kind of preppy meets de-luxe Hollywood. It was superb. The iconic thirties look. Half a lifetime later, in the early eighties, I saw a film of her (I think she was herself in her eighties at the time). And what was she wearing? Oh, just soft, baggy pants, a silk shirt and a nonchalant cashmere sweater tied round her neck. It happened to be a fashion that had just glided back into vogue - this time as a quintessential eighties look. She looked fabulous.

I don’t know whether her style had gone anywhere else during the 50 years between her youth and her old age - it really doesn’t matter. There was no-one on earth who was going to tell her what she shouldn’t wear. No-one was qualified to do so, and I’m sure she would have shown the disdain for this kind of unwanted rule-making by the unqualified fashion police that it so richly deserved.

The point is that no-one would have ever tried to oppress Katherine Hepburn with these rules. No-one would dare. She was a powerful enough force to be immune. These fashion rules are a form of bullying reserved for ordinary women. In particular older women. And larger women!

Nowadays fashions come round so quickly that quite honestly a look has probably returned before the garment has made its stately progress out of the back of the wardrobe and into the charity-shop collection bag. And nothing is ever entirely new in fashion; so most things arriving in the shops have been there in some incarnation before.

If we all obeyed this particular 'law' I suspect anyone over the age of 30 would have difficulty in finding anything to wear, and those of us approaching our 50s would have to learn to stroll around nonchalantly in the nude. Or learn to wear completely bland clothes.

Because this rule is all about noticeable styles - i.e. fashion. What it is trying to say is that no-one beyond a certain age should wear anything with style and design. That - when we are older - we should all start to wear generic, anonymous looks.

Well, I have a fashion rule of my own and it’s this... we don’t have to obey any fashion rules. That’s it. If we want something, if we like something, and if we look fabulous in something, then we can have it. Honestly, what is there to stop us?

We are not too large, or too old. It’s not too bright, or too patterned. We don’t have to be told what colours to put together. Or what fashions we are ‘allowed’. We are free to choose... free to look good in our own signature way.

 
As a retailer, I don’t normally see myself as having an educational role - I simply aim to provide the best service I can. However, there is one subject that I would really love my customers (and the general public) to know a lot more about... credit cards.

I’m not talking about the big, important issues about credit. I’m simply talking about the mechanism of how they are processed in the shop. As I spend most of my days at the coalface dealing with this process, I think I may be able to explain matters a little, and hopefully lay a few myths and misunderstandings to rest.

When a customer makes a purchase in my shop, it’s usually by card and this is placed in the PDQ machine. Sometimes the machine will automatically dial the call centre to get authorisation. It dials the number and usually gets straight through. Occasionally, however, it will not succeed first time. This is because the call centre is busy, and the PDQ machine has to do what we all do when we get an engaged signal: sigh quietly and dial again. The customer waits patiently while the machine sits there. After re-dialling, most often the call will be answered. The usual wait time is just a minute or two at the most.

But from time to time the little machine is not so lucky (especially on Saturdays, when the call centres are particularly busy), and even this second time it fails to get an answer.

At this point, perhaps the customer, if she has not experienced this before, will start to feel embarrassed. Some women wonder if they have accidentally gone over their credit limit, and will begin to speculate about how this might have happened. However, if a sale were going to be declined, this would happen as quickly as an authorisation - there is no extra delay. So a delay is simply a routine part of business and means absolutely nothing about authorisation or refusal. (Actually, I am appalled by these delays. I think the card companies are saving money by not employing enough people and/or machines to answer all their calls promptly during peak times, and I regularly complain about it.)

However, most of the time everything is simply processed very quickly and automatically. It’s one of the wonders of modern life. Sometimes, though, the machine will ask me to telephone the call centre to have a conversation with one of the operatives there.

Again, this usually has nothing whatsoever to do with financial authorisation - if there was any problem with that, it would have been dealt with quickly and automatically. Nine times out of ten what is being checked is something totally different: identity.

If I had one wish on this issue, it would be for people to understand that identity checking and credit rating are two completely different things. If you spend a minute to consider it, you will see what I mean. If there were not enough funds to cover a sale, the machine would simply refuse it - it would have no interest in who you were. In fact, if a sale was to be declined, arguably this would be the only instance where the credit card company really couldn’t care less whether it was really you or not at the till. Instead of feeling that one was at risk of having the sale declined, having an identity check should be seen as an indication that funds are in place!

Identity checking is an essential service provided for you by the credit card companies. It’s there for all our sakes, and we pay for it. If your credit card company decided it wasn’t going to check identities, it would create havoc.

So what are these identity checks like? Well, we’ve all had them. We are asked for our mother’s maiden name, our postcodes, code words, etc. Sometimes the checks cause delays when we need them least, and are irritating. However, we should be heartily grateful that the credit card companies are doing what they get paid for - making sure someone else hasn’t got hold of our cards! These tests are generated completely randomly, and cast no slur on our personal bearing or appearance.

No-one should be embarrassed at having to stand at the counter answering these questions. If the Queen had a credit card (and who knows she may do: legend has it that she never carries cash), it would randomly generate the same identity tests (what’s your mother’s maiden name, ma’am?).

So we can stand at the counter with our head held high and answer those questions with the best of ‘em. And hopefully with cheery good grace. If these identity checks can do something to make credit cards less attractive to thieves it may help deter them from stealing them in the first place. So there would also be fewer burglaries and robberies... surely a cause well worth investing a few moments of anyone’s time in.

 
Hi Emma
I wonder if you can help. I am going to my sister's wedding in June in Greece!! It will be fairly hot, but not baking and I want something to wear!! I am 5'8 and about size 24/26 (american 2x on top and 3x on bottom)
I was hoping to find a sort of duster coat with a skirt and tank underneath - if you think you may have something along these lines, I will come and see you - I'd love to come anyway as am in need of a wardrobe makeover!!
Look forward to hearing from you
Carina
PS do you stock an American designer called Eileen Fisher?? We have been living in Chicago for a number of years and I had great success with her clothes.

 
Hi Carina

Your sister's wedding in Greece sounds fantastic! I do hope you have a wonderful time....

I have to say, from what you have written, I think you will find a great selection of what you are looking for here at the shop right now. We have lots of lovely longer, soft, lightweight jacket/coats that would be suitable for a wedding. As you suggest, we usually team this with a 'tank' (we often locally refer to this as a 'camisole'), and either a skirt, or a pair of smart, soft trousers. It's a wonderful trendy, younger look.

You're particularly lucky with your height and size. As you are in the middle of our size range, you will get the pick of all the looks, and most of the clothes in the store are based on a height of about 5'8'' or 9''.

The choice of a duster coat style for a taller woman is an excellent one: you will look and feel cool and arty, and will be able to carry off the longer length perfectly (but you already know this!).

I do not at the moment do any American ranges: a few years ago we did, but then suddenly the American designers seemed to leave the european marketplace, I assume for economic reasons of some kind. I am not aware that this range is available to be bought over here at the moment (from a retailer's point of view). At some point in the future I will try to travel over to the states to source them - if I can't get them here, I will try over there! Thanks for giving me the heads-up about Eileen Fisher - this is exactly what the forum is for!

 
I would like to add my support for Eileen Fisher's range - David Dart is another US designer who has easy to wear quality fashion.
My biggest quest has always to find the perfect Tee or cotton Tunic - good weight - not too thin or fitted-long enough.
I am also quite fond of the Dutch designer, Cora Kemperman - I like that quirky lagenlook.
Emma and Jaq have always been at the front in showcasing on trend clothes that flatter and suit.
Now off to get the Easter roast in the oven and munch on the lovely Easter egg!
Enjoy the day!

 
Hi Kathy

Uuurgh! I've just eaten an entire easter egg, and the chocolates inside, in one sitting...

I am so excited about the way the forum is going... this kind of information about recommended ranges is invaluable. I would always be interested to hear about what you are looking for and why. Some businesses spend thousands on market research, but we have you guys...!

I too am obsessed with the perfect T - and I can tell you it is one of the most frustrating things you can imagine. Some ranges have got beautiful colours, but not the length. Why oh why do they think anyone will want a T-shirt that stops half-way across their stomach?

Then we find lovely ones that seem perfect until we realise that some genius has decided to make them fitted (it's a lucky and rare woman who can wear a fitted T-shirt over a size 12 without showing her spare tyre!). Then we strike gold and have an ideal solution, which the manufacturers only produce for one season. We then get tormented with customers who want more of them!

I think there would be a very good market for someone to simply make gorgeous large T-shirts - and nothing else - in every imaginable colour, fit and length, and in a choice of different weights - and run them every season.

The two main T-shirt ranges that we have at the moment are Exelle (which do lovely long, A-line T-shirts in gorgeous colours), and Deluca, which do very reasonably priced soft cotton T-shirts. We also generally do tops from our regular ranges - if we see a top that we think will interest our customers, we always buy it.

 
Thanks for the reply Emma, I am going to try and come to Brighton next week, I see that your trouser days are on then, will you be too busy do you think?? Most likely day is Tuesday I think.

 
Hi Carina

Great to hear that you may be coming down to Brighton next week. We certainly won't be too busy to help you, and it may be a good idea to get in before the Trouser Days. This is because a lot of people come in looking for a pair of trousers, and leave, for example, with a lovely duster coat as well - so it would be best to get in first!

I do envy you with your Mamma Mia wedding - I'd love to be contemplating something like that.... Beautiful sunshine, the sea glinting, lovely summer clothes. Sounds just like Brighton actually. We can but dream.

 
I have been asked to speak at my sister in law's wedding in June - so I need to look fab! I have seen a beautiful green and gold Anna Scholz kimono dress - do you have it? I have been having dreams about wearing it with some killer gold heels Or alternatively the black and pink dress in the evening wear pictures = with Killer pink heels?

Would love to know so I can come and pay you a visit.

Emma

Thanks.

 
Hi Emma

Great to hear the news about your family event! I know how how you feel. I was asked to speak at my sister's wedding two years ago in front of 250 people. I too chose an Anna Scholz dress, and I felt superb!

I think it would be a very good idea for you to call the shop (01273 327240) and talk to Jaq or me (Emma). We have had the dress in... and it sold out. It really is gorgeous. There may be availability to re-order, but we would have to find out your size, etc. There are other related things available from Anna that may interest you as well.

It's worth mentioning that Anna Scholz items often sell out very quickly, but can be re-ordered for specific customers. However, as time goes on, what we can re-order does diminish. There is a real cachet about designers like Anna Scholz - we never really get enough to satisfy all the demand. The last customers of the season do tend to miss out on their first choice. It's a cruel reality, but this is one of the reasons why you will never turn up to a wedding and find anyone else there wearing your dream Anna Scholz look....

 
fab Emma -love the shape and style...
its a big birthday on the 30th Apr... are you and Jaq availble that evening?

 
Hi Kathy

This is going to sound like I have a social life (- and I don't), but I'm going to London on that day, of all days. Can we do something on another day, say a Saturday night...?

I'm glad you like the look of the Ts. Some of them have got just the shape and texture that you like.

Hope to see you soon.

 
Drat! but maybe see you on the Friday
Tees are great... as are all your items!
Love to all...

 
Hope to see you soon, Kathy!

 
I am discovering that one of the marvellous things about having a blog is the ability to have a good gripe and get all of life’s small irritations off one’s chest.

At the shop we are now deep into ‘wedding season’, and this throws up a number of irritations. One that I find particularly irksome is the phenomenon of women being told (by family or friends) what colour to wear to a wedding. These instructions can range from something as simple, and understandable, as ‘please, please, mum, would you mind not wearing black, just this once!’ to something more dictatorial.

It’s now quite normal for us to see women who have been told what colours are off-limits. One reason for this is it seems many poor souls mistakenly think that when someone in the wedding party has an outfit of a certain colour, this makes it forbidden for use by other attendees. This is entirely wrong.

I accept that care should sometimes be taken about wearing precisely the same colour as others. If it looks like the two mothers, for instance, are wearing very similar shades then they can just look a bit too alike, like two overblown bridesmaids. And the larger of the two women (in other words my customer) can often come off the worse for the comparison - something I would avoid where at all possible! However, the chances of getting exactly the same shade are slim, and a different shade of the same colour will not cause any problems of this kind. When you see the photographs you will not notice. So once someone has bought an outfit, this should not debar anyone else from wearing a similar colour should they choose to do so.

Quite often we see a woman who is a larger size, say a size 30, who is looking for an outfit to attend her son or daughter’s wedding. It’s one of the really important days of this woman’s life. And it’s not going to be easy for her to find the right thing to wear. She has to get the style that really suits her. She has to make sure she feels comfortable in it - that the fabric is not too hot and doesn’t crease too much. It needs to be affordable, and, as she is a certain shape, it has to a very particular type of fit. It has to be a shade that suits her complexion. She wants it to be young and fashionable, yet formal enough. And to top it all, it has to be available in a size 30. To be honest, for many women of this size range, even after months of searching, she may find only one outfit that perfectly suits this profile.

Yet, when she does, this lady is sometimes told by a member of her family that she is ‘not allowed’ to buy it. This is because someone else attending the same event has ‘bagged’ that colour. Often this lucky other woman has chosen the colour of the season (this summer it would be purple), which is the colour many of the best outfits at the time. But this particular woman may be a size 10. She had bags of choice, and probably found her outfit on the very first day that she went out looking (which explains why she got first dibbs). And, had she decided to change to a different one, she could easily go out and find another in an afternoon.

But unfortunately it gets much, much worse than this. Every wedding season we see women coming into the shop with a strict instruction that they must wear one colour. This has nothing to do with clashing with anyone else. It could be for a relatively benign (although to my mind still misguided) reason - for example because the whole wedding is ‘themed’ in a certain colour, and all attendees have to match in some way. However, this is relatively rare. The usual reason is that someone simply has the mistaken belief they have the right to tell another person what she is supposed to wear.

Many times I have found relatives (mostly for well-meaning reasons, although sometimes for more sinister motives) have just told a woman in no uncertain terms what she is meant to buy. I have no idea if these self-appointed stylists/fashion experts realise the havoc they cause; it’s unlikely, because they probably haven’t had the same difficulties obtaining an outfit themselves. They may be trying to be helpful, but if their advice is followed it makes finding an outfit almost impossible. And very stressful.

These are ladies who have found it easy to make themselves look good, so believe they have a talent for it - one which they are obliged to share with others. Most would be mortified if they realised that they do more harm than good.

Of course there is a simple cure for this situation. No-one has to take any kind of instruction as to the content of their wardrobe. Actually I think it is outrageous that anyone would even consider giving this kind of advice, unless it has been specifically asked for. There is no need to get into a row about it; you should simply smile sweetly, thank them for their kind help, and say that you will be making your own choice. Reassure them, should it be necessary, that you are perfectly capable of selecting your own attire.

I am put in mind of an anecdote about Margaret Thatcher and the Queen. Early on in her premiership, Mrs Thatcher was attending a state event and contacted Buckingham Palace to ask staff there what the Queen would be wearing, so that the two of them would not be seen to clash. The brusque reply from the Palace was that ‘The Queen did not notice what other people were wearing’, and would not be supplying information about her outfit. I don’t necessarily recommend this approach to customers.

Most times we simply have to live with the family dynamic and find the best solution, although it would not be my personal choice to do so, and may not result in the optimum fashion look. If asked, my advice to my customer is to focus on buying a gorgeous outfit that really suits her. She will be the one that looks lovely on the day. And she will look fabulous in the photographs in perpetuity.

And what of the person whose thoughtful advice was ignored? If she really meant well she will be delighted with the result. Human nature being what it is, she may even genuinely believe she had some part in its success.

 
Why is it that chain stores seem to do such a poor job of providing larger-sized womenswear? Recently, a local chain store on the high street in Brighton (I’m not naming names because this is not a story particular to this one retailer - it’s something that seems to happen with all the chains) started to stock a range of clothes going up – theoretically - to a size 28. They also have an out-of-town superstore that carried the range. The whole venture was trumpeted with much excitement by the media. At last, we were led to believe, affordable and desirable large-size clothes.

I think there may have been problems from day one, but after a year or so, noticeable things started to happen to this range, and the signs were not good. It was removed from the high street and women had to travel to the superstore to get it. Then it was pushed more and more to the back of that store - shrinking all the while. Now it has been quietly removed altogether (I think it may only be available online). It must have been an expensive, humiliating and disastrous failure for this business.

Which leaves us with the question: Why on earth is it that large sizes are so difficult for the chain stores to buy and sell? We are all getting bigger, so there is a very large and growing market out there (as it were!). Surely they can cater for it? Many of these stores have a wealth of experience in fashion retailing.

The reason is larger-size fashion is such a difficult and complex business. And it requires people who know, not just fashion buying, but large size fashion buying.

When we go buying for our store, for instance, we have so many things to think about, it makes your head spin. First and foremost there's fashion. We are a medium/high-level designer store, and people travel across the country to get to us, expecting a directional collection.

Then we have to think about the different shapes of women’s bodies. All women - large and small - have differently shaped bodies that can be categorised into rough groupings. For instance, there is the apple-shaped woman, the pear-shaped woman, the hourglass, etc. With slim women these differences are relatively minor, and many can get away with wearing more or less the same styles as women with completely different body shapes. This cannot happen with larger women, where the differences are far more pronounced. With larger women, not only the styles, but also the fit must be radically different - according to body type.

Then there are the usual considerations (which I believe all fashion buyers should be conscious of) about obtaining clothes in the colours that suit the four main complexion groups (winter, spring, summer and autumn). Add this to the necessity of trying to cover all the bases in the matter of different clothing usage (casual, smart casual, formal, workwear, etc.), and you start to get a picture about what is involved. Every one of these groups has to be bought across the complete range of body shapes.

Very often we have to deliberately work against fashion. For example, if the latest trend is for short skirts, we have to find suppliers that are able to make the longer skirts that we need. It can feel like swimming upstream.

As independents, we do have a lot of problems that the chains do not. One is that we do not produce our own clothes - we have no design department. We have to go out into the marketplace and source what we need, spending days and weeks looking for, and occasionally failing to get, what we want. It is like mining diamonds. Finding treasured solutions is the most satisfying thing for us. It’s a wonderful, rewarding, interesting and exciting, yet highly frustrating part of our work.

As we are quite small, we simply don’t have the capacity to carry everything we would like. Added pressure is actually placed on us because there is so little competition. This means that we really have to try to get as wide a variety of clothes as possible, because women cannot find co-ordinating items elsewhere. It’s no good, for instance, selling a woman a superb suit, if we don’t carry the top to go under it. She may well have the greatest difficulty in sourcing that herself. She certainly won’t get much help on the high street.

The problem with the fashion industry in Britain is the dearth of specialist knowledge in this specific area. Sadly, this is all too obvious. The chains probably employ experienced fashion buyers who are the best in their field. Unfortunately, their field is not large size fashion - it’s ‘mainstream’ fashion. It’s a vicious circle: the high street has no experience because it has never done it successfully. It can never do it successfully because it has no experience. The stores fail because they simply have no idea how incredibly complex the subject is.

Chain stores love simplicity. The one generic shape of jacket, tailored to look different in a hundred different ways (that’s fashion!). The same fit of trousers, in many, many different styles. They all look incredibly different, but in fact they are all cut from a certain block, and assume the human body is a regulation shape.

The irony is that the big stores have such a vast benefit to gain, and such a huge contribution to give, to the larger-size clothing market. If they could develop a way of really finding out what was needed in this field, they are in fact well equipped to satisfy it. If only they were able to accept that the solution is far from simple. They would have to not only understand and accept the diversity that exists in their customers, but learn to embrace, create, and provide it in their own collections.

 
Many women choose to come into the shop alone - to set about the serious business of clothes buying unencumbered by a companion. These are women who do not feel the need to consult with husband, friend, or family member when buying their outfits.

But most women do, at some point or other, bring someone in with them in order to get a second opinion. Or an only opinion if they are one of those individuals who have difficulty formulating an idea about how they look for themselves.

I’m not saying this facetiously; it can be very difficult to know how you look in something. You are sometimes, quite literally, too close to the subject to be able to form an objective view. Believe it or not, I've been there myself!

The staff here at the shop can offer such a view, but ironically, this can be a little bit too objective. For example, we may be able to see whether a customer physically looks good in an item of clothing, but we cannot judge whether it is the correct image or personality for her.

One may be forgiven for thinking that all that matters is that someone looks lovely in something - surely there can be no better reason for wearing anything? This was my view when I first worked in fashion, but I was soon disabused of it. In the early days there were several times when I was disappointed to hear that a customer had never worn an outfit that I had sold to her, despite the fact that she looked gorgeous in it.

This is because these early looks did not always take account of a customer’s personality. If a woman has a quiet, timid personality, there really is no point in persuading her to have a bright red suit in her wardrobe, even if she looks knockout in it. This is because the suit will in all probability remain firmly in the wardrobe, for the very reason that she looks knockout in it! Not every woman wants heads to turn when she enters the room, even in admiration. This particular modest and self-effacing woman would get much more use out of a grey suit teamed with a red blouse, for example, and maybe a dash of red lipstick and co-ordinating scarf. It won’t be knockout, of course, but that’s the point. It will be subtle and easy for her to wear, yet still with a hint of the scarlet that will light up her skin.

So this is where the shopping companion comes into his or her own. He or she, presumably, knows the customer well, and can really help with the selection of an outfit.

But it is well to choose this companion with care. If you are relying on their opinion, you will need to have someone who has good taste and judgement... and motives that gel with your own.

I have had occasion to watch shopping companions over the years and they make a very interesting field of study. Some of them are talented at styling their friends. Many of them are incredibly kind and supportive. Some are incompetent. And a few have rather strange motives.

I have seen, for example, sisters and female friends sit on my sofa and shoot down in flames the most beautiful outfits you can imagine. And I have, on several occasions, had those shopping colleagues take me aside, and quietly tell me why. Apparently, there are people out there that believe it is their duty not to ‘encourage’ their friend/relative to buy anything nice ‘whilst they are this size’ - for fear of taking away their incentive to lose weight. So no matter how lovely a woman looks in something, their companion has already decided that they are going to try to put them off it. In fact, the more gorgeous the woman looks at this size, the more she must be slapped down - ‘for her own good’. It just wouldn’t do for her to feel really good about herself as she is now!

In all honesty, I don’t think this has as much to do with us being a large-size store, as it may look at first glance. Before Emma Plus, I worked in various other branches of retail, and I have noticed a certain rivalry that can surface between shopping companions of any size. And this rivalry does not just have to involve clothes - a similar situation can arise even when someone is buying a sofa!

You can tell from what I am saying what I think of these ‘virtuous’ motives. I’m sorry to say I have a cynical view of them. I think they have more to do with flaws in human nature, rather than with someone being concerned about a friend’s BMI. I may be the one accused of being cynical, but I believe I know what good intentions look like. Despite the bewildering phenomenon that is Gillian McKeith, most intelligent women don’t really think that bringing someone else’s self esteem down will help them in their life in any way - and my customers and their friends tend to be very intelligent women.

I have seen friends run around the shop and seek out the loveliest outfits, tirelessly attempting to help create the perfect look. I have been there when two sisters, working perfectly as a team, have sifted the options until they have found great looks for each other. I have seen daughters giving their mums the most enthusiastic advice about the latest directional clothes, and nearly crying with delight when they see they have helped her bring out the best in herself. Believe it or not, I've actually seen a work colleague secretly club together with others in their office in order to buy a woman the dress she really loved. That’s what good intentions look like.

Luckily, the resilience of the female shopper is usually great to behold. Most times, bogus objections are swept away by the awesome force of good sense and a really superb look.

And if they are not, there is always another day, and perhaps another shopping companion. And next time let's hope it will be one of the good ones...

 
Hi Ladies, as promised I am adding my views to your very useful blog. I had my first (and definitely not my last) visit to your shop on Friday. I didn't know what to expect but I arrived with an open mind and a feeling of hope. We (hubby Chris was driver/2nd opinion if needed) entered the shop to be greeted with smiles, hello's and more importantly for Chris, a comfy sofa and a cup of tea. I have never been treated so nicely in a shop before, you all wanted to know what the outfit was for (our son's 1st Communion and a posh wedding) and all the ladies started to suggest outfits or pieces that would be appropriate for my shape, height, colouring and for the occasion. No-one was pushy, and the only real advice was to try on all suggestions and see what I liked, and what I felt comfortable in. I did find two outfits that I loved - one for my 2 occasions, and one because I just loved it! I keep thinking "What was the best part?" but I still can't decide. I loved the way you looked after Chris, and still managed to look after everyone else arriving in the shop. I love the fact that my clothes are being altered to fit me, and I love the fact that I have to come back to collect them and try them on knowing that you won't let me leave until they are perfect. Thank you for making shopping a wonderful experience again Emma, Jaq, Tessa, Beryl and all the other ladies whose names I cannot recall (apologies). Looking forward to seeing you soon. Sandra

 
Hi Sandra

Thank you so much for all your kind words. All the girls are thrilled that you had such a great time, and that you found what you wanted!

It really was so lovely to meet you and your husband - hope to see you again soon!

 
Hi Emma,

I've been looking everywhere for Chalou jeans/trousers to replace my 2 pairs (trendy black ones, and cream ones) they both have a feature on one leg!
Was wondering if you will be stocking them very soon as I cannot find any shop (in Sussex!)that does since the shop I purchased them from has since closed down in Burgess Hill.

Many thanks.

Regards, Michelle

PS. From the pictures of clothing on your website is there anyway you could provide the make/style no. of them as I'm after a certain NP black linen jacket (+ pattern) (half sleeves) in a certain size?

 
Hi Michelle

As you’ve mentioned, there was a business with shops in Brighton and Burgess Hill that stocked the Chalou range. It was called Cinnamon (I think this was the shop that you bought your beloved Chalou trousers from). When more than one shop in an area stocks large sizes, they usually try to avoid selling the same ranges. This gives the customer more variety - it would be narrowing the field of consumer choice if all the large-size shops were to sell the same outfits!

This is one of the reasons why, in the past, Emma Plus did not stock the Chalou range. Now that Cinnamon has sadly closed down, there is no store in this area the sells it. As we have had numerous requests for Chalou, we have decided to look seriously at stocking it in the future.

We have been asking interested customers to contact the shop (on 01273 327240) and place their names on our ‘wish list’ for whatever it is that they would like us to source. In your case it sounds like the Chalou trousers! We would then keep you up-to-date with developments, and phone you when the range comes into stock.

I would like to find out if there is any chance of getting Chalou this season, but if this is not possible (it’s likely to be too late), then we would hope to do so in future seasons.

It may be worth mentioning, at this stage, that we do have some gorgeous (non-Chalou) trousers in stock at the moment - for example the NP range, which is very strong this season.

If you are interested in a particular NP jacket it would probably be best for you to phone us, on the above number, and we will supply price and availability information...

 
Hi Michelle

We have a new member of staff, a woman called Kim (right), who used to work at Cinnamon as the manager of its Brighton marina branch. She is now our assistant manager, and she tells me she remembers you!

She says she also owns the same trousers that you have mentioned, and so has been able to give me the heads-up as to what it is that we should be buying from Chalou!

 
Dear Emma & Jacq,

A very grateful thanks to you both for all your help yesterday after yet another exhaustive but satisfying session in your shop. As usual you came up with all the correct clothes, wonderful help and comments. I know that I never have to ask for a size as you always manage to come up with the correct one, or if not, out come the dressmaker's pins! It's so nice to be treated as a normal person and not given the cold shoulder when you mention you are a plus size in other shops. On entering your shop you are immediately made to feel at home with no pressure to buy and a welcome rest is always guaranteed on the sofa with a ''cuppa''!You are both inevitably correct in deciding what will suit me, and I know I can just relax and wait impaiently in the fitting room for you to keep the flow of clothes coming.
Again many thanks to you both for all your help.- Diane

 
Hi Diane

Thank you so much for your comments about the shop - I’m so glad that you enjoyed your visit!

It really is a pleasure to work here - we have some of the loveliest customers you can imagine. Sometimes it’s just like being at home, with a succession of friends calling in.

I’m glad to hear that the service you had was to your liking - we’ve been so incredibly busy lately that we are beginning to worry that we haven’t been able to give everyone the individual service that we would normally like to provide...

 
Before I discovered Emma Plus (about 14 years ago now), I spent many years searching desperately for a shop which stocked beautiful clothes, in the latest designs for larger women. Back then I was in my mid 20s and found myself spending huge quantities of money in the likes of Selfridges and Harrods on things that we’re beautifully made but were designed for women in their 50s.

I ended up feeling as though the retail world believed that if you were under 50 you had to be one of 2 things:
1) Thin – therefore you could shop anywhere and choose anything
2) Fat – therefore you weren’t interested in clothes and just bought whatever shapeless sack or poorly made garment you could find

By the time I came across a listing on the web for Emma Plus I was at the end of my tether. In work I was wearing suits from Elena Grunert (not really appropriate for someone under 30) and had about 3 items of casual wear that I liked and wore day-in day-out until they were falling to pieces. At the time there was very little content on the website, just the address details and a couple of photos which hinted that maybe, just maybe, Emma Plus wasn’t the usual plus-size retailer that seemed to be out of step with fashion.

Walking into the shop for the 1st time marked a turning point in my relationship with clothes and clothes shopping. I had driven 70 miles in the hope of finding something which would make the trip worthwhile. Suddenly I found myself welcomed warmly into a shop and not judged for my size or pressured into buying something that didn’t suit me. Next came the choice of things which I actually liked, for once I was spoilt for choice and could turn things down because they weren’t quite right. The clothes weren’t frumpy and fit beautifully. And if the fit wasn’t perfect…then they would alter them for free.

14 years on and whilst some things have changed; I’m no longer in my mid 20s and now live 1000 miles from Brighton rather than a poultry 70; others haven’t. I’m still large although at Emma Plus I’m only considered a medium and I still buy all my clothes at Emma Plus.

On Saturday I made one of my now twice yearly pilgrimages to Brighton to visit Emma and Jaq and to re-stock my wardrobe for Summer ’09. As usual it was a real pleasure and I came away with everything, and more, than I wanted (3 Marina Sport blouses, 1 Anna Scholz kaftan, 3 pairs of jeans, 3 pairs of trousers, 2 t-shirts and 1 nightdress).

Just to finish my posting (sorry it’s so long winded). If you are out there, frustrated about the lack of great clothes for larger women, and wondering if it’s worth the risk of giving up a day to get down to Brighton then I say TAKE A CHANCE, like me, it could change your relationship with clothes forever! Believe me when I say that Emma Plus is unique. Emma and Jaq have a wonderful eye for fashion so the choice is always varied and great, the service is 2nd to none and, what really makes the difference and could never be duplicated are Emma and Jaq themselves who are the warmest and most friendly people I have been able to find within 1000 miles of home.

NICOLA (Madrid, Spain)

 
Hi Nicola

What a wonderful posting! I am so grateful to you for your kind words and sentiments.

Actually, I don’t think that you, or many of our other customers, always realise that they are the main reason that Emma Plus is in existence! Were it not for women like you, who take looking good really seriously, and who have the taste and fashion nous to seek out and buy what we have, we would not be here now...

I am put in mind of another shop, in another part of the country, that I was made aware of about 15 years ago. The owner was at the end of her tether, and was phoning to ask me whether I wanted to buy any of her stock, which was current season, but was not selling at all in her location.

I was dubious; usually if a shop isn’t selling its stock it is because it hasn’t chosen the right things. However, when I looked into the situation, I found out that this shop had beautiful stock, but the customers there just weren’t interested in it. The owner listed the ranges that her customers had requested her to buy. I won’t mention them here, but they were the usual suspects in those days - dreary tents in drip-dry fabrics.

This was before the advent of the internet, and it seemed impossible for the shop owner to widen her customer base, so she chose to close her business rather than buy and sell what she felt was depressing clothing. Actually, I agree with her: speaking for myself, if I couldn’t stock really lovely clothes, I would rather be working at Tesco’s, or selling lawnmowers for a living.

It was at that moment that I really appreciated how incredibly lucky I have been here at Emma Plus. We have wonderful local customers, who have been frequenting us for years, and who have really supported us through the good economic times and the bad. We have also been able to develop and grow through the enthusiasm of customers like you, Nicola, who are willing to travel some distance, because they simply won’t contemplate the dreary, and are willing to expend the time and effort necessary to obtain what they require without compromise.

It really is true to say that you get the clothes shop you deserve!

So it's partly thanks to you that I don’t have to sell lawnmowers for a living...

 
This week I was very interested to see the latest episode of Gok Wan’s channel 4 programme, 'Gok’s Fashion Fix'. I was particularly intrigued, because the subject of this week’s makeover was Lisa - at ‘size 18’, a larger-size woman.

At this point I should admit that usually I am not the greatest fan of TV makeover programmes, especially when it comes to larger-size women. Sadly, they are frequently extremely unsuccessful, and I have a theory as to why this should be. I think that there is a world of difference between a fashion stylist who understands what it is to have a genuine body issue, than one who doesn’t know the meaning of the thing. I’m talking about the kind of fashion stylist who feels she has a ‘wobbly belly’ if she has put on two pounds.

In my world it’s very different. I’ll give you an example. I am generally quite happy with my body (I know that’s quite unusual, but believe me, when you have got some of the clothes I have, you tend to rather get over your bad points). However, there’s no getting over the fact I have a very unpleasant spare tyre round my waist. No matter what size I have been in my life, that dear tyre has always been there for me. Sometimes, it is the size of a rubber ring. Sometimes, a moped tyre. It has even grown to lorry tyre proportions. You could call it my bete noir, body-wise.

But many people who have known me for years, are not intimately acquainted with this delightful feature. They simply don’t know of its existence. Or, not, at least, it’s full extent. This is because I hide it. Actually, I’m very good at hiding it.

But this is not unusual. Every day of my working life I see clever women walking in my door who are equally adept at hiding their sore points. Like the women who wear the long tops to skim over their thighs. Or those who have found the exact length of sleeve that they need to disguise the defects in the upper arm. I could go on (and on and on!). However, it’s not necessary; I would imagine that at least 95% of the women reading this know exactly what I’m talking about.

When these customers come into my shop with an area of their physique they need us to work with, I don’t waste their time and energy trying to persuade them to let go of their inhibitions and show the world their worst part. I know that if, for example, I turned up to a friend’s wedding in an outfit that revealed my spare tyre, I would be mortified. And no amount of reassurance from a ‘stylist’ that I looked great would make me feel anything other than an embarrassment to myself. I need to look fashionable - (hopefully) gorgeous - and spare-tyre free!

This does not in any way mean that I want women to drape themselves in a tent. There’s an art to dressing beautifully and sensually without letting the cat out of the bag, and that, in a nutshell, is nine tenths of what is important when dressing a larger woman.

So if I see TV makeover queens grabbing hold of a larger woman and forcing her to wear a top tucked into her trousers (revealing a less that pert bottom), or thrusting a massive belt around her waist (making her ample bust look cartoon-like), I sigh in despair. These stylists just don’t get it!

So-hang on a minute - what’s going on with Gok Wan? His team seems to have been able to achieve the impossible. On his programme, Lisa looked lovely, and (uniquely, I think, in the history of TV makeover programmes) she doesn’t show off any of her weaker areas. The clothes look like someone who actually understood what it is like to have real body issues had chosen them. They skim the problem areas (I’m assuming there are some!) and emphasise the attractive curves.

Could this, I wonder, be anything to do with the fact that Gok himself, at one stage, weighed 21 stone? It seems rather a co-incidence.

I also think that Gok has revealed something else about himself. I think he was generous and thoughtful in his choice for Lisa. Part of the premise of his programme is to make women look good without using the designer labels, but by obtaining clothes in the chain stores.

Yet for Lisa’s new wardrobe, of the 12 pieces of textile clothing, five of them were from Anna Scholz, the top designer for larger women’s clothing. Of the remainder, there were just a couple of jackets from M&S, a pair of jeans and of trousers from Evans, and some camis. In other words, Gok gave Lisa a designer wardrobe, backed up with some simple basics from the high street.

I believe in doing so, Gok has shown that - as all true larger-fashion stylists should - he cares about the client’s look more than his own ego, and has been prepared to ditch his premise about high-street chic when it clearly wasn’t going to work.

In choosing to make Lisa look good, rather than just himself, he has managed to make both of them look good.

 
Hi Emma,
I have sent you an email at your shop address and wondered if you have received it yet.
Many thanks and look forward to hearing from you.
Regards,
Michelle Hearn

 
Hi Michelle

Thanks for your post. I did receive your email message and thought I had replied to it. However, it is more than possible that (through sheer incompetence!) I actually sent the email intended for you to my other email address!

I have sent you a copy of that email, forwarded to your address - if you fail to get it, please contact me again and I will try something different!

It's a sad fact that, although I really love contacting customers using these new-fangled technologies, I am actually completely rubbish at anything IT. I put this down to being the wrong generation - I have never had any training in computers, and they didn't even have calculators when I was at school! That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it...

 
After my last musings about Gok Wan’s recent success in styling a larger woman, I was put in mind of another TV programme that dealt with larger sized womenswear. For anyone who missed it, I’ll describe...

It was a BBC programme that went out last year called ‘Mary Queen of Shops’ and it was presented by Mary Portas, a retail and branding expert (right).

The premise of the series was that there were a lot of independent shops in the UK that were in trouble, and Mary - whose career spans working with Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Top Shop and others - would help them move their businesses forward. A different store was featured every week.

As you can imagine, this programme was immediately 'required viewing' for independent fashion retailers the country over - myself included.

Upon watching it I have to say that the information gleaned from most episodes was not helpful to me in my own shop. In most instances it was too basic for that. What I got from this series was the realisation that there are quite a few businesses in the marketplace that function radically differently to the rest of us. And not necessarily in a good way.

I won’t drone on with trade details. Suffice to say that every aspect of the business that we take for granted (where to buy garments, how to display them, how to serve customers, how to develop a knowledge of fashion, etc.) seemed to be unknown territory to many of the shop owners featured. I found it riveting.

Someone once said that every happy family tends to be happy in the same way, yet every unhappy family tends to be unhappy in a completely different way. So it seems, it is with fashion shops. Most of us bob along, running quite an organised system, perfectly recognisable to others in the trade. Yet each failing shop featured in this series seemed more bizarre and eccentric than the last.

But I also confess to feeling a frisson of jealousy when watching the programme... resentment even. The thing is I rate Mary Portas very highly. She is a real fashion professional. What she doesn’t know about fashion and branding could be written on the face of a perfectly manicured little fingernail. Those people able to benefit from her help are lucky indeed. The participating stores would also benefit from the publicity of being featured on television - a massive boost to any business.

I found it irksome that the BBC was giving these businesses such a bonus, when all they had done to deserve it was to be failing (and often in obvious ways). Why couldn’t some of the rest of us, who are rather good at what we are doing, benefit from the superb Ms Portas? And why couldn’t a really good large-size store ever get featured on the telebox!

We wouldn’t need the stream of ultra-obvious advice that she was called upon to give (‘your canopy is knackered - have it taken down’). You don’t require a top-line expert to give advice like that. I would have happily pointed that out myself. Sending Mary Portas, of all people, into these situations was like asking a Nobel Prize winning physicist to mend your central heating.

I wanted to hear the kind of gems that only she could supply – the expert branding and retail advice that she had been hired by the bosses at Harvey Nichols and Top Shop to give!

Of course, as I realist, I knew the score. The BBC had perfectly good reasons for using this format... it made superb televison.

So when I heard that Mary would be visiting a large-size womenswear shop, to be honest, I felt not only a bit of jealousy and resentment, but also a little anxiety. The shop was in Ascot, not a million miles from Brighton. Even as recipients of the best advice I knew they wouldn’t end up with a range to rival ours - that relies on relationships that take years to develop. But Mary might be able to equip this shop with a really great interior, exterior, branding, display, publicity, etc., that may detract from our own business. My customers may choose to go there - if only once for curiosity’s sake - and that could give me a blip in trade for weeks.

But I also felt quite excited and challenged - perhaps here would be some relevant Mary Portas advice that I could make use of!

I had never heard of the shop in question, which was strange. I thought I knew just about everyone in the large-size business in this country. With the benefit of hindsight it’s easy to say that I should have known that this fact alone spoke volumes about the shop in question.

If you ever get the chance to see the episode, which features a shop called The Fit, in Ascot, it is a must. I dare say it will be repeated at some point. It was truly one of the most riveting, eye-opening pieces of television for those interested in larger-size fashion.

A woman called Amanda, who was probably about a size 8, and who obviously had never been large in her life, owned the shop. As soon as she started to speak, she disgusted Mary with her tactless lack of appreciation of the larger-size woman. She had even developed her own demeaning terms for her customers’ body shapes. The ‘no hoper’ was a 'large' woman at the top of Amanda’s size range (size 22; that’s nearly the bottom of our size range - so much for being a ‘large size’ store!). The ‘bouncy castle lady' was her term for my own body type - an apple shaped woman with a large stomach. The ‘bullet’ was a short woman with ‘stumpy legs’. As you can imagine, her depressing and negative views of her customers were reflected in a dreary and undesirable range of clothes.

My jaw hit the floor as I watched this, and it was very gratifying to see Mary Portas with exactly the same expression as my own. Initially, listening to this woman, I felt annoyance and insult. I then started to see the funny side. Maybe years of working with the public has desensitised me. It’s true that I am rather slow to take offence... and quick to find things amusing. The woman was a real one-off.

This was a lady who had a business for large women that was failing, and she had no idea why. The fact that she was prejudiced against the larger-size aesthetic was one thing (bizarre as it was under the circumstances), but that she felt happy to go on national television to shout about it, is nothing short of hilarious! For a woman like her to have ended up with a large-size shop just seemed so random - one couldn't imagine what she was thinking. Looking at her, I was left wondering which screw it was, and how it had worked itself so spectacularly loose.

Mary’s face was a picture. Sometimes she looked completely stumped. Sometimes she gritted her teeth so much that she looked like she was chewing a wasp. She took Amanda aside and read her the riot act about her appalling attitude. It was then Amanda’s turn to look stumped. She couldn’t imagine what she had got wrong!

However, trooper that she was, Mary did her best for this shop, and for the good ladies of Ascot. She showed Amanda some of the best fashion houses and tried to educate her about fashion. She sorted out the shop for her, and re-launched it.

I really have no idea how this shop is doing now. I would sensitively suggest that it might not have taken off with anything like a bang. I certainly didn't notice any blip in trading at the time.

Ironically, although I have complained that Mary spends most of her time in these programmes dispensing advice that it does not take an expert to give, she does seem - in this episode - to have forgotten to give Amanda the most obvious help of all. It’s a piece of advice than any one of us could have given her, and it would be extremely useful...

For goodness sake, get out of the large-size fashion business. And leave it to people who love it!

 
Spot on, Emma. Amanda needed to be in a different business. Keep up your good work. GBP problems and err... dieting prevent me from revamping my wardrobe right now but I'll be back.

Sue

 
Hi Sue

Hope you are well! How are your lovely dogs - I'm sure as gorgeous as ever!

We do have some lovely things in at the moment...

Good luck with the diet. Don't forget that if you find your clothes start feeling a bit too loose, we have a superb alteration service!

Jaq sends her regards...

 
The harder I work the luckier I get. This is as true for fashion as it is for life. What I mean by this is that some clothes simply work harder at succeeding than others - and it makes a great difference.

For example, I was looking at one of my camisoles today. This particular garment was made by a German company called Sallie Sahne. In reality, it’s only a kind of vest top, which I've had for years, but nevertheless, it’s a piece that I appreciate. There’s something indefinable about the fit. I feel confident wearing it. The thing about this Sallie Sahne cami, and indeed virtually all our really good quality designer clothing, is that it really flatters the wearer’s body.

Looking at the garment closely, with an educated eye, you can start to see why. The top itself is quite long; it certainly doesn’t stop halfway across the stomach - the usual problem with a cami. The straps, though very fine, are beautifully stitched - soft yet firm - and are adjustable with a good quality buckle, that neither slips, nor jams sideways. The front of the cami is double, with no seam at all at the bottom, so there is no chance of any ridge widthways across the body. If there was any possibility of this fine, heavy, and very stretchy fabric clinging to one’s stomach (and there is very little), then it would only be the inner layer that would do so - the outer layer, visible to the world, would always glide over the top. And because the bottom of the cami has no seam, there is no bagging.

The facing at the neck is flat and smooth. There are bust darts, and the sides of the cami are shaped. It’s the sign of a very good garment when both these things are done, and done well. Instead of making the mistake that a lot of cheaper ranges make, this pattern cutter has really understood the shape of a larger woman’s body. The cami comes in under the bust, instead of in at the waist. This means that the cami would never swing in an ugly ‘pregnant’ look from the bust, but neither would it cling to emphasise a less than toned stomach. Under the arms, the cleverest touch of all, the straps continue in an arc, elasticated and slightly gathered. On the hanger, this looks slightly odd, yet on the body, it produces a perfectly fitted, smooth look that will sit snugly and never show your bra.

This cami costs probably three times as much as many of our normal camis. Yet it washes over and over again. The fabric does not need ironing. It does not pill, shrink or fade. It’s cool and breathable. It will last more than three times as long as an average cami.

This is the case for most of the really good jerseywear from the best collections that pass through my shop. Jackets fall effortlessly from the shoulders. Dresses stand like columns, only emphasising (but not over-emphasising) the bust. Tops don’t snag on the body.

When I first looked at Sallie Sahne jerseywear I swore I would never buy it. Although it didn't cost a fortune, it did seem just too expensive. Initially, at the fashion shows, viewing it on the hanger (never the best way to look at jerseywear), I didn’t realise how good it was. Even when I did, I wasn’t convinced my customers would care enough about the better quality to pay the extra. Eventually, I weakened and bought a small quantity.

Of course it sold almost straight away. Sometimes customers would try it on with no intention of buying it - they were just curious. Yet when they slipped it on, they really liked the way they looked in it. ‘Why oh why’, they would complain, ‘does it always happen to be the most expensive thing that looks best on me?’ Many women thought this was just bad luck, when actually it is the whole point about designerwear in the large size market. You could say exactly the same thing about Anna Scholz, Elena Miro, Marina Rinaldi, Personal Choice and many other ranges that get it right... on purpose.

This is what top-end design is there for. Someone, somewhere, has taken infinite, obsessive care, looking into every possible aspect, to make a garment that is as flattering as it is humanly possible to make. Someone has consulted with larger women, and really listened and cared about it doing what they wanted it to do. And someone has been totally uncompromising. It is as if they've asked, OK, what on earth is it that we have to do to make this thing absolutely perfect? For all I know, with all the attention to detail, skill, and the best materials, these items may actually be as cheap as it is possible to make them.

And when it fits and flatters, you can be sure it really isn’t because of luck...

 
Seven years ago I took on a work assignment in the UK; lived in Hayward's Heath, worked in Sayer's Common, explored the lanes and byways of Brighton on weekends. And one Saturday, there I found Emma and her staff as I stumbled out of the Church St carpark.

Coming from a mass-production-oriented, anything-in-black-is-what-they-deserve environment here in Australia; I was overjoyed to discover Emma's range. Actually, I think I was quietly prodded out the door at closing time after several hours on my first visit; thankyou in retrospect for your patience, ladies.

I'm still wearing two of the lovely pieces I found that first weekend - a beautiful faux-houndstooth swing jacket and an elegant heavy black tunic; although the tunic is showing signs of age at this stage. The wonderful aubergine coloured pure wool knitted coat I fell in love with at first sight the same weekend has - only recently - fallen into it's second life as my dressing gown; it is still appreciated and loved.

I'm saving for a return visit; my husband is slowly growing accustomed to the idea of a trip to the UK so I can shop properly again. Hope to see you soon; and if not, can I be your Australian agent? Please? *smile*

 
Hi Lara

So great to hear from you! And thank you for your lovely post. I’m pleased to say that the collection is getting better and better. I do think the designers are producing more for the larger woman each season.

Here is a piccie of Jaq and me, taken at Christmas, looking quite merry!

I envy you in Australia - I’ve got friends out there in Sydney, and I’m really looking forward to visiting them again. I went a few years ago and absolutely loved it. Maybe when I go next time, I could bring an extra bag of goodies for you!

Just tell me if you ever want to start your own shop over there - I promise to give all the help I can...

We all remember you, and are so glad that you have happy memories of us - we’re still missing you too!

 
Hi
Do you do Chalou and Sempre Piu trousers and tops ?

 
Hi Joani

Thank you for your enquiry. We certainly do have a lot of people interested in Chalou and Sempre Piu! This is a subject already touched on in this forum. The situation is that because another shop near us stocked these ranges, until recently we were not able to stock them.

Now the other shop (Cinnamon, in Burgess Hill and Brighton) has closed down, we will be able to start stocking them. As everything we have is 'forward ordered' (meaning that it is ordered six months in advance), we have not yet had the chance to order them for this season.

Because of the real interest, especially on the forum, we promise to do our best to order this range (Chalou and Sempre Piu are actually from the same supplier).

We have a new member of staff who worked at Cinnamon, and she suggests that if you are interested in the Chalou trousers with the cut-out section on the leg, you may also be interested in some of our Brand trousers, which are very similar.

We do have a lot of lovely trousers, which - although different from the Chalou range - are well worth having a look at if you are able to visit the store...

 
Hello, I love your website, please bring your store to Australia. We don't have a lot of stores who cater for the fuller figure over here. Certainly not with a lot of lovely colour. They seem to have lots of black and no dresses. I have not been able to buy a dress that doesn't make me look like a sack in years!
Keep up the good work
Kind Regards
Diane Vernon
P.S. If anyone does know of a shop like yours in Australia, please let me know!

 
Hi Diane

That was a cry from the heart! I do feel for women who live too far away from the stores they would like to frequent, or find real difficulty in hearing about good shops in their own area.

Dressing yourself is a hugely important way of expressing your own personality, and you can feel stifled if you are not given access to clothes that gel with your desired image.

It’s not the first time I have heard from women in Australia bemoaning the availability of large-size designer fashion. When I was there myself, I didn’t manage to make any headway in finding any interesting stores.

Perhaps the forum will throw up a gem. If it doesn’t, perhaps you will consider opening one yourself!

 
I was very pleased with range of clothes and the excellent customer service I received when I visited you recently.

I also enjoy reading your blog.

However, it takes a while to get to the most recent post. Would it be possible for your webmaster/mistress to rearrange the posts on the blog so the most recent post is at the top, rather than the bottom?

 
Hi Angela

Thank you so much for your post. Yes, we are in the early days of this kind of thing and are going to have to develop it as we are going along!

There is a button at the top of the forum/blog marked 'end'. This will take you to the bottom of the page. And if you would like to return to the top again, you will find regular buttons marked 'top'.

Also, if you press the little button marked 'Subscribe to the RSS feed' at the bottom of this page, what you suggest (the latest blogs being at the top of the page) will come up when you click on that feed from your favourites!

However, although this works, I feel that I would also like another solution - something a bit more elaborate. With this feed, those who have already read most of the blog may find that the feed is enough to get the latest posts. But if they want to revisit old posts, or if they are new readers, they may still find it difficult to find posts on specific subjects.

I would be interested if anyone has any more suggestions. I was mulling over the idea of an index system - a menu that people could see at a glance. I suppose I have to own up to the fact that I'm not much of a blog reader, so I don't have much experience of how other people deal with it.

It may be worth mentioning that I am also on Twitter (see 'http://twitter.com/emmaplus'), where a brief description of recent blogs can be seen and accessed really quickly. Is this enough for readers...?

 
Yesterday I had an email from a woman in Norfolk mentioning that she would be coming to visit the shop to buy an outfit for a family wedding. So what’s so unusual about that? Nothing, as it happens. Nowadays we have women from all over the country travelling down to buy clothes at our shop, all the time. Suddenly Norfolk seems close.

This has not always been the case. Years ago (before the internet), the only people who knew we existed were from our local area. We used to serve the people of Brighton and Hove, as well as Sussex and the surrounding counties. Occasionally women would travel down from London to visit the seaside, and stop by to shop with us.

In those days shops like ours were like Bonsai trees. We had limited root space, which meant that we were unable to grow properly. Local people got to know about us through advertisements in the local papers, special events (like charity fashion shows), county lifestyle magazines, and word of mouth. There really was no way that we could make ourselves known further afield. National advertising costs thousands, and would not be affordable, even if it were effective.

Press advertising for larger sizes is a very hit-and-miss area. The few times we splashed out and advertised in national fashion magazines, the response was disappointing. It’s not hard to understand why this was, at that time. To be honest, if you were looking for womenswear in large sizes, the very last place you would look for it would be in a fashion magazine! Larger women found the process of trawling endlessly through style journals, trying not to fall in love with beautiful clothes they would never find in their size, very depressing. Most gave it up as a bad job, more frustrated than ever.

So local shops were just that - with a small, local customer base. But the problem with having few clients is that you end up with a very small stockholding. And a very small number of suppliers, with very little choice.

In the bad old days, if a woman telephoned me from, say, Kent, and asked whether it was worthwhile driving down to see us, it was a worry. Often I would take all the details I could from the customer (size, height, colour preference, what she was looking for stylistically), then run round the shop looking at what I had, before I could give an answer. I am not, and never have been, in the habit of encouraging someone to spend a morning on the road travelling to us if it is just for a disappointment. So there were times at the tail-end of the season when I had to tell a depressed customer that the answer was no - it really wasn’t worth her driving for an hour to get here, because our choice didn't warrant it!

How the world has changed. Now, when a woman telephones me from Kent and asks me whether it is worthwhile coming here, I don’t consider it is any distance at all. In fact, these days, I’m a little surprised that she even calls, because she is so ‘close’! This is not, as you can imagine, because the country has suddenly shrunk, or that the roads have magically become clear and easy. It is because the internet has had a wonderful, and (for me at least) completely unexpected affect on my business.

All of a sudden our customers, wherever they are, are finding out about us. And this is having a profound, exciting and positive effect on our shop - and I believe, on the large-size fashion business as a whole.

A virtuous circle has started, and it goes like this... More people, from further away, have heard about us through the internet. Then they have come and shopped here - creating demand. So we get to buy more clothes, with greater choice. This makes it worthwhile for women travelling even further afield to visit us. So we can stock yet more clothes.

And this is a highly interactive process. Of course, we are only interested in stocking what customers want enough to warrant embarking on their trip!

Having been on the internet for years now, we have established a reputation for really being worth a long trip, and women come from all over. We get them travelling from Ireland, Wales, and across England. It’s really not that unusual for us to have someone who has specifically travelled down from, say, Yorkshire. This enables us to grow more. The little Bonsai tree has been removed from its restrictive pot, and has been planted out in the earth. To mix a glorious metaphor - we’re now free-range! The limit to which we will grow now depends entirely on our customers’ choice.

Of course, I'm only speaking about our shop - it's the only business I know anything significant about. But I would imagine this process is happening to all specialist shops that have a good internet presence and a stockholding that excites interest nationally.

I don’t know where this will end. But I know what it has begun. It is democratising fashion. What I mean by this is that the process has not just benefited us - it has benefited the customer. No-one wants to have to travel great distance to buy in a shop. But if you can’t obtain what you want locally, then you will seek it out and make the effort to get it if you can. In the past women have complained that no-one seems to know what it is that they want. Now it is possible to speak up, using a language the fashion industry knows well - the language of sales.

It’s an exciting and frightening time to own a store, because this process is double-edged. Pre-internet, stores that were not really meeting the challenge of buying and selling what their customers desired, would at least make a living. In my mother’s generation, everywhere there were stores that had rather lack-lustre collections yet were still able to continue because local larger women had such a dearth of choice. After all, one has to wear something!

Now, all over the country, these disappointing shops are being bulldozed away (speeded by the credit crunch), and their customers are hitting the search engines. Now, for the first time in large-size fashion history, we have real Darwinian democracy in our business. The survival of the fittest.

Those stores that take a real interest in what the consumer desires - those stores who are prepared and able to provide the aspirational clothes that women will travel for - will prevail. And those who disappoint their customer base will have no way to survive.

Maybe I’m being wildly optimistic, but I believe that there may be a sea change in fashion in our size range just around the corner. In fact, if there is, then it has already started. At last women are able to decide exactly what they want, and have the economic power - accessed through the vital information they have always lacked - to drive their own fashion forward.

 
You do a great job Emma.
Keep it up.

 
Let me share some experiences with my other voluptuous friends.... I am in the UK via New York - where the range of clothing for us curvier gals is extensive and on trend.
I found Emma and Jaq when I was working living in Brighton ( Hove actually) and it was like I stumbled upon Nirvana and my best mates all at the same time.
I love these women and I love their tastes and their honesty!
They are treasures- they understand that great looks need not be restricted to size 10s.
All my best stuff comes from them- and all are staples in my wardrobe.
The alteration service is a fab bonus... its like bespoke tailoring.
Whether its a business suit, a linen jacket or a fantasy evening coat... you will find it at Emma's and it will look great and you will look even better!
Keep it up ladies... the best is yet to come.

 
Hi Kathy

Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a lovely post. People will think we are writing these ourselves!

We are so lucky to have such wonderful customers - and it has been fantastic to hear these comments, which I never dreamt anyone would be posting.

We are just incredibly lucky. We come into work every day, meet some lovely people, and deal with some lovely clothes - it really is that simple. I honestly don’t think anyone should be complementing us. There are so many people out there that do incredibly difficult yet necessary jobs, thanklessly...

 
All lesbians are mannish and are not interested in fashion. And all women’s clothes shop owners are snotty, superior and unapproachable...

Where do these clichés come from? In common with most people, I’m hoping they get dumped in the dustbin of history! But like many clichés (offensive or otherwise), they may have within them a grain of truth.

I have been reading articles in the mainstream press about fashion all my adult life, and I can honestly say that I have never read a single one that deals with lesbian fashion, other than from the perspective of the straight population. What I mean by this is that, while straight women have been interested in borrowing from the style of various notable lesbians (Marlene Deitrich, KD Laing, etc. - so called ‘lesbian chic’), in the mainstream media no-one ever seems to talk about the fashion experience from a lesbian point of view. This contrasts with the emphasis on gay men’s fashion, which has always played a major role in contributing to the advance of menswear design. Arguably, the influence of gay men on menswear design is far greater than the influence of straight men on this subject!

Perhaps I am blundering in where angels fear to tread. Perhaps it is in itself discriminatory to talk about lesbians as a group - or indeed, to generalise about any section of the female population. However, it’s something retailers do all the time. Big retail has made a whole profession out of the study of different socio-economic groupings as they affect consumer purchasing behaviour. And I feel sure any lesbian readers of this blog will ‘put me straight’ (as it were!) should I put a foot wrong.

I can understand why one would believe there is nothing of interest here: surely, the lesbian experience of fashion is the same as the straight woman’s? I have to admit where I am coming from here. As a straight woman, I am not at all qualified to talk about the gay experience of fashion, and so I have no intention of doing so. Yet as a storeowner, who has worked in womenswear for most of my adult life, I can comment on my side of this relationship.

Situated, as we are, in the North Laine area of Brighton, which is the heartland of the gay capital of Great Britain, we enjoy the custom of many lesbians. Yet I can’t help feeling that many more gay women, who by rights should be our customers, habitually give stores like mine a wide berth.

Many times over the years, for example, my first meeting with a gay woman has been when she was driven into my store, almost against her will, by sheer necessity. I know this, because I am often told so. I cannot count the number of times a woman has said that she had not really wanted to embark on the shopping expedition that had brought her to my door, but had actually dreaded it... that the only reason she eventually came was because there was some major event that had necessitated her breaking down her own personal barriers to visit us. Yet so often, these women who have previously dreaded visiting us, have loved the experience, and have gone on to become our regular customers and friends.

This has been particularly noticeable since the advent of the Civil Partnership law, which enabled gay couples to legally mark their relationships - surely the single most joyful law brought into legislation for many decades! We have had a flood of rather nervous-looking lesbians bashfully slipping into the store and surreptitiously looking through our rails ever since. Of course they are looking for something wonderful to wear to either their own, or their friends’ happy event. Some of them don’t like to mention why they are here: we know (we’ve seen so many of these happy couples to recognise the body language now), but they don’t know we know!

It has led me to wonder why so many gay women are so nervous when they come into boutiques like ours. I feel certain it is because they have good reason. I have asked about it many times, but to date the answers have been simply polite and vague.

When I scroll through my own memory about how I have been received in designer boutiques, an answer starts to dawn. Some women who work in shops like mine, seem to see ‘femininity’ as a competitive sport. By this I mean that they appear to adopt an extreme version of it and look down on other women who have a different emphasis to their own. They seem to feel that a less ultra-feminine woman is lower down the fashion food chain than they are!

I’ve been in shops where the person working there is slim, with a super-feminine outfit, and an extremely high-maintenance style, who has felt free to snub or patronise me. I have presumably been examined and found wanting in some way. Let’s be frank, in my case, it’s unlikely that they object to my look, fashion-wise. I think, for me, simply being a larger woman has probably been enough to provoke the superiority reflex.

I even remember once being in a store that was stocking some larger sizes (along with small ones), and still being treated in this way. I strolled in the door, wearing all the best designer labels, looking reasonably well presented with a nice hairdo and makeup. Yet the stick-thin ultra-chic (she thought) young thing in the shop virtually refused to serve me, despite there being no other customers in the shop at the time. I found myself looking at her back nearly all the time I was there. As a large woman, she simply couldn’t take me seriously enough as a customer! She couldn’t see me as a person interested in style.

I can’t help thinking how much worse I would have been looked down upon if I had a less ‘maintained’ look, or if I had a more androgynous style. And many of our lesbian customers are very pared-down and more relaxed in their look.

Of course, one doesn’t have to be gay to appreciate the sleek, subtle, occasionally androgynous style favoured by many of our lesbian customers. It is a staple for sophisticated women from all walks of life, but it is not always well represented in the designer womenswear retail community. In fact, in many boutiques, finding something that is pared down, elegant, sleek and non-flouncy is like looking for hen’s teeth. This is sheer madness: there are superb clothes available from the designers that are timeless and elegant assets to any woman’s wardrobe. Yet many store owners simply do not appreciate this kind of dressing. They do not realise that not all of us want to look like Paris Hilton!

It’s about time our industry embraced not only the differing sizes and shapes of their customer base, but also the different aesthetic sensibilities.

So there seem to be two problems. There is a whole style that our industry tends not to recognise, understand and provide properly. Then the situation is only made worse by the actions of a minority of store assistants with an attitude problem. Women should be made to feel valued and appreciated-customers spending their money in an estbablishment don't want to feel they have to be 'tolerated'. If lesbians have had negative previous experiences, no wonder many don’t want to chance coming into my store!

Word of mouth is a useful thing. I do believe that, in time, many more of the women who would benefit from shopping with us will eventually throw caution to the winds and come and have a look at our collection.

And hopefully, we will leave the negative clichés and generalisations to the past. I hope it can be seen that, in our store - in every sense - we may be straight, but we are not narrow!

 
Hi Emma, Im getting married in April next year and my mum and i came in earlier in the year for a little look for a dress with short sleeves or dress with a little jacket for her in a caramel/stoney colour, we knew it was quite early but you all were so nice to my mum and as she is not the most confident person in the world because of her shape that really helped, she wants to come back to see you at the end of the summer/autum to see if you have anything like that in that colour coming in and then hopefully get it on order, thank you for making mum feel like she can look good. see you soon

 
Hi Emma

Thanks for your post. Congratulations on your happy event!

You are so wise to have started to look early. The best time to search for any item is at the beginning of the season. The good thing about coming in at the end of the summer is that you will have the chance of looking at the beginning of two seasons, Autumn/Winter, then Spring/Summer, if you come again after Christmas.

You may feel that finding an outfit in the Autumn/Winter collection that would be suitable for an April wedding would be difficult - surely your mother should be wearing a summer outfit for this time of year? But some of the early Autumn/Winter collections (coming in late July or August) do have a more summery look.

My advice is if you see something you love, just snap it up straight away, even if it is really early - you may well never see anything you like more. And if you don’t buy it when you see it, it may be gone. If you don’t find anything suitable in the Autumn season, you will still get another bite of the cherry for the Spring collection, which comes on in January.

The only slight alteration to your master plan that I might suggest is to be flexible about what you are planning to buy. Sometimes, just when you are looking for, say, a caramel dress and jacket, a wonderful skirt suit presents itself. Or a soft green dress and coat, or something else that - although it isn’t exactly what you were looking for - actually turns out to be the best solution for the event...

 
I was chatting with one of my customers yesterday about what I would do if I won the lottery (that’s always supposing I started doing it, of course). Naturally, I would - within a millisecond - be sunning myself somewhere exotic.

But when I got bored with that... I have a long-held fantasy about what I would do if I had enough money to be able to play about with some of it.

What I would absolutely love to do is to open a larger-size superstore! It’s been a favourite dream of mine for years, and I will paint a picture of it for you...

I would take a good-sized building in Brighton (I’ve seen a couple that would be near enough to a car park and the train station to be suitable), and I would open a department store dedicated to large sizes. Everything needed by the large woman would be stocked - every product that you may ever desire (some without even knowing it).

Of course, there would be the usual Emma Plus-type of clothing: daywear, a fabulous eveningwear department, occasionwear, workwear, etc. There would be coats of every type, from the thick winter variety, to lightweight macks. There would be leather jackets, jeans, T-shirts... everything that we currently stock, only on a much bigger scale.

The lingerie department would be a joy, and it would be so fantastic to see a really comprehensive collection of larger-sized nightwear - both sexy and everyday.

There would be a sportswear department, with all different types of active wear - and a swimwear section, which would also stock sarongs and beachy-type clothing.

There would be a bridal department with large-size bridal gowns so that purchasers could actually try on a style before committing themselves to ordering it to be made - such a radical idea!

Everything imaginable would be sourced in larger sizes. There would be bigger hats and bigger gloves, in all the colours available. There would be larger tights, also in every colour and thickness. The scarves we at present stock at Emma Plus are specially designed and made for us to suit the larger woman, and our necklaces and bangles are also specialist items - these would also be found in the accessories department of the store. The handbags would have long adjustable straps, so that they will span across a larger woman. Even the socks would be special, with wider, softer tops.

The shoe department would stock shoes, large and small, that would be wide fitting. And the larger-sized shoes would be really large. What’s more, there would be really lovely, younger styles. Women’s feet are getting bigger with every generation, yet the shoe industry is fixated on the idea that large shoes should be in styles more suited for older people. This makes absolutely no logical sense. Hello! Statistically speaking, it’s the younger generation that has the larger feet! And older women have stopped being frumpy - if they ever were! The boots would be wide in the calf, and some of them would be really long - they would actually be knee-high on tall girls!

I know it sounds mad, but these products do actually exist! We already stock many of them, but this store would be able to go into massive depth and variety. If the buyers of the superstore put some effort and expertise into sourcing these items, there would be no problem whatsoever in assembling them all in one place. It has never been done before, but it is eminently possible.

Because of the scale of the undertaking, there would be a ‘while-you-wait’ alteration department. A customer could make her purchase of, say, a pair of trousers, then after a little break for coffee (and maybe cake) in the café, she could collect them, ready shortened, before leaving for home.

The wonderful thing about this particular fantasy is that I think it would be a success. If it was backed up with national advertising, I truly believe that, at one point or another, every large woman in the country would want to visit it - if only for curiosity’s sake. And if she loved the experience, she would return again and again. Large people are a growing (as it were) section of the population - we are not going to go away.

Supply and demand are usually so intrinsically linked, yet the link is broken in the large-size fashion business. There is often very little way for the customer to purchase what she really wants, thus sending a strong enough message to the manufacturer about what should be produced. A large-size superstore would have real clout with suppliers, and would increase the availability of the products that are so desperately needed.

There would be many, many customers from Europe also stimulating trade. Brighton is a superb place to stay, and even if some women found the journey to get here a bit onerous, they would find it worthwhile.

Of course, it would only then remain for some enterprising chap to set up a large-size man’s superstore next door...

 
Jaq (the Emma Plus store manager) and I were chatting the other day about how our backgrounds affect the way we do our jobs.

It was in the context of one of my previous posts. I had implied that we do not have a particular stance on how girly one should be in one’s appearance. I had mentioned that I thought that many boutique owners and sales assistants seem to think there is only one way to look (usually a hyper-feminine one), and that any other style is an aberration.

We simply don’t have this philosophy at Emma Plus. It’s not that we are at all muddled about what we are trying to achieve with our clothes. We certainly have a point of view. It’s just that we are not overly prescriptive about our fashion. Put simply, we are only interested in whether a look works on a particular woman... in other words, whether it is an informed, successful look.

Jaq and I have worked for years together in the shop - we are the two longest-serving members of staff. Neither of us came from fashion backgrounds, but we both have an art education. Jaq was a fine artist, and actually qualified to become an art teacher. She has an amazing facility with colour and form. However, in fact, I think her real talent is fashion. I have never met anyone who has such a natural flair for this subject - and I have spent most of my adult life amongst fashionistas. I was astonished when she first worked with me, because she seemed to already know so much about an art form that she had just come to.

My background is in design. My degree was in three-dimensional design, specialising in jewellery making. By the time I had been out of university a couple of years, I already knew that I did not want to be a practising artist. At that time, I wanted to have my own gallery. Funnily enough, it almost worked out that way - a womenswear shop is a kind of art gallery. The works designed by the artists (the fashion designers) are selected, displayed and sold there. But the wonderful thing about fashion is that it is for everybody, not just the elite.

I have an obsession with fit, and I hope that I have some of the skills to make a garment fit most women. This is not because I know my way around a sewing machine (heaven forbid!). No, my interest is in the subtle differences that can be caused by changing the form of the garment, as it fits around the human figure. I find it fascinating and very rewarding to get the fit right. This is an entirely three-dimensional pursuit, and it is informed by my experience in three-dimensional design. I also like to think that it may be a family trait: my great-grandfather was a Saville Row tailor.

Once the alterations are formulated, Denisa, our seamstress, undertakes them. I think that when Denisa first worked with us, she probably thought we were quite mad with all the alterations that we do for customers. But it didn’t take her long to understand the vital role this plays in our business. We simply cannot bear to see a woman leave our shop with an ill-fitting garment, whether the problem is a tiny one, or a major undertaking.

When Jaq and I do the buying (it is usually the two of us who have this responsibility), neither of us have any agenda when it comes to look. We think it is our job to be informed about every fashion style.

You could choose a really edgy fashion-orientated look - perhaps an Anna Scholz stretch silk dress. Or you could go the opposite way and seek quite a hippie style, like something, say, from the Angel Circle collection - which supplies colourful, drapey clothes, many of which would not have looked out of place at Woodstock.

We are delighted to offer sleek Italian styling, from ranges like Elena Miro and Persona. Or sharp little sexy jackets from Personal Choice. Or pared down classic cotton separates from Brand or NP. There is no look that we haven’t got an interest in, if it can be made to work for the larger woman. This is the thread that binds the collection together - that informs our point of view. Does it work...?

Although our looks can be very different, they have a strong common thread. Both Jaq and I can see an Emma Plus garment a mile off. Many times there may only be one or two items that fit the bill from any single designer. This is one of the reasons why we have so many suppliers. It often happens that Jaq and I trawl separately through hundreds of garments, just to pick out two that are suitable. And even though we were not together at the time, we have both always selected the same two items.

We don’t put any particular look above any other: just good taste and judgement, backed up with fashion knowledge. Many times a customer in the store does not know herself what category the look she is seeking falls into, and we are tasked with finding that out first before we can help. We work side-by-side with our customers until we all know what it is we are trying to achieve. If the customer does not need our help, we will give her the space she requires to make her own informed decision.

We do not create any of the clothes ourselves. We rely on the fantastic fashion designers to do that. Together with our customers we make good use of our aesthetic educations to help with the selection and development of the looks that leave our store. We never forget that we are incredibly lucky women who get to spend all our working lives dealing with the beautiful creations of talented artists working in the field of fashion design.

 
There are two main issues that govern whether an item of clothing will work on a woman or not. One of them is colour (more of which in another blog), and the other one is body shape. As this is of such prime importance to dressing, I thought I would try to throw a little light on the subject.

Very soon after arriving at the shop, I realised that my customers tended to be highly intelligent - so I am not going to waste time by going over how you can tell what body shape you are: you already know! Nevertheless, I do believe there may be things you don’t know that I may be able to share with you.

Like Lisa Minelli, for instance, I am an apple shape - so this is the shape I will start with. The apple shape, as represented by many women, often has certain markedly good parts. Most apple shapes have good legs (as this isn’t always the case, my apologies to those women reading this who are at this moment gritting their teeth in annoyance). They often have good, smallish busts (no, small busts are good - honestly!), slim hips and pert bottoms.

Some apple shapers have short, thick necks (like mine!), and double chins (also a delightful personal feature). Occasionally, there are apple shapers who have big busts, and large shoulders, but this shape is rarer. Many of us have rather wide backs - love handles, if you will. But most of us apple-shaped women are reasonably small everywhere else but our stomachs, which are either large, or very large.

When you have a large stomach, you really do just have to hide it. Surely, I hear you say, if any part of one’s anatomy is disproportionately large, then one would automatically hide it. But not necessarily so! For example, a significant number of large busted women (so called ‘melon women’), are very proud of their busts, and display them to great effect. Some pear shaped women are delighted to emphasise their ‘booties’ - and look incredibly sexy because of it. And many hourglass women look stonking when they show off their curves.

The usual problem with proudly displaying your biggest part is whether or not you can rock the look. It’s a psychological issue. If you have any feelings of embarrassment you may not be able to carry off this display of bodily wealth.

We apple shapers have no such dilemmas. In our society, no one in his or her right mind would ever want to display a protruding stomach to its full effect. There are many people who really appreciate the shape of a woman’s curves (and in fact really admire a very ample figure), but if there are people out there who really enjoy looking at a large midriff, I have yet to meet them.

So the name of the game for apple shapers is concealment and diversion. We apples have a lot going for us and, if we can only learn to use it wisely, can truly look superb. We just cannot celebrate our ample proportions.

How you dress any particular figure varies with what is in fashion at the time of course. I remember Trinny and Susanna advising someone a couple of years ago never to wear black with a bright colour. At the time, it was excellent advice. But the fashion has changed, and now it’s in vogue. No-one stands still in fashion.

So the advice I would give to the apple shaped woman is true for today, and perhaps for the next year or so. Some of it is just classic timeless advice, but much of it has a sell-by date. I would hope that no-one reading this blog would still be trying to follow this advice in five years’ time!

So let’s start with concealment. Layering is key here. A jacket really suits an apple shape, and is a staple for layering. It should be fitted-if possible, almost nipped-in at the waist. Don’t worry if you can’t button it up. A buttoned-up jacket that is fitted would only emphasise your worst part - your waist. That’s what fitted jackets are for. And if you found a jacket that you could button up, chances are it wouldn’t fit you anywhere else!

Of course, at Emma Plus, we can alter a jacket to fit you beautifully, but it’s not really necessary; you just have to make friends with the idea that it doesn’t matter if you can’t button your jacket up. If it’s any comfort to you, the ‘jacket-that’s-too-tight-to-button-up’ look is incredibly trendy right now. I’ve seen Victoria Beckham wearing a jacket that clearly couldn’t be done up (I wonder where on earth she went to get that - Lilliput?). So there’s no shame in not being able to do something up... on purpose! The trick to carrying off this look is proportion. It's got to fool the eye into thinking it is neat, but not completely too small.

The vast majority of jackets look better undone on just about anybody. This is because if you put a contrasting (darker) colour underneath, you will be cut in half widthways. This is a very good thing. You will look much less wide and there will be an optical illusion that you are taller. The tailoring of the jacket will ‘assume’ that you have a lovely waist - you are borrowing that shape from the clothing!

The top you wear underneath is key. I would suggest that if possible you try to get a sleeveless top. What, you cry, and show my arms! No, the name of the game here is to never take your jacket off! As soon as the jacket comes off, you are losing the best part of your look. So what you wear underneath should be as cool as possible.

If you have serious tummy issues, you can up the anti with the top. You could go for a matt, dark fabric - and don’t worry about getting it a bit baggy. The jacket will give you shape. You really have got to think about getting rid of any shiny, clingy fitted tops if your tummy is particularly noticeable. They may look good when you are standing in front of the mirror (unconsciously pulling your tummy in), but after a few minutes of everyday life, they are describing your worst feature to the world!

If possible the neck of the cami should be low - this will also help create a longer neck, and will give a feminine shape.

This tailored jacket look is just one of many potential assets to an apple shaped woman. There is not room here to describe all the different forms of soft tailoring, dresses, blouses etc, that can work well. I would suggest that a woman of any body shape take the time to have a really good trying-on session in a shop that has a good selection, in order to develop her own style vocabulary. And, if you have the time, do this quite regularly, so as to keep up with the best of the current looks.

So much for concealment - let’s move on to my favourite subject... diversion! There really is nothing better for taking the attention away from your stomach, than focusing it on your bust. If you can bear to, show a bit of cleavage! A soft, long scarf is a must (which will also help you should you be forced to take off your jacket). It is also really worth investing in some good necklaces. These should have colour, be a good size (tiny, very fine jewellery can actually emphasise the large size of a top half), and a good length. If a chunky necklace is too short, it will shorten your neck.

I really wish I could say to an apple shaped woman ''why not divert attention from your tummy by showing off your gorgeous slim legs!''. But the fact is, too much emphasis on the sliminess of the legs can over-emphasise the size of the tummy. Put succinctly, one doesn’t want to look like a lollipop on a stick! Skirts and trousers will often be close-fitting, but I really wouldn’t recommend flashy bottom halves (like short skirts and lacy tights). So please don’t wear super-slim bottom halves, like ultra-tight leggings. You may have 'principal boy' legs, but the look will be less Lisa Minelli, and more Max Wall.

The wonderful news for apple shapers is that some time ago, a friendly scientist somewhere decided that he/she was going to create something especially for us. They did so, and its name was Lycra! We apples particularly need Lycra (or elastine). This is because of the way the human body works.

Put simply, if you have a 24” waist when you are standing up, chances are you will have a 24” waist when you are sitting down. Yet if you have a 45” waist, the likelihood is your waist will measure 52” when you are sitting down. This is simply to do with the inherent squidgyness (that’s the scientific term) of the human body. So apple shapers need to wear stretchy trousers and skirts. If they actually want to sit or bend, that is.

As luck would have it there are some superb options for the bottom halves of appleshapers. Slim stretch trousers that aren’t too narrow, don’t cling and have wonderful soft waists are made in every colour, and supplied by ranges like Sallie Sahne and NP. Women who try a pair of this kind of trouser will often return at top speed and hoover up every other colour they can get their hands on. It amuses me to see some women standing in the store and seriously wondering out loud how on earth they ever got on without them!

Once an apple shaped woman adopts a tailored, layered look, she will immediately look sassy, controlled, sleek and sexier. We apple shaped women can look superb. We have the opportunity to emphasise our good features, inject some femininity into our silhouettes, and look much slimmer than we are. With a little attention to detail, the world’s our oyster...

 
Hi Emma

As promised, a picture from our son's wedding.

We all had a wonderful day and I have never been told so many times how wonderful I looked in my outfit. I felt absolutely fantastic in all of my finery.

Thank you all very much for you help (sorry I'm not more photogenic).

Kind Regards

Sharin Meharg

 
Hi Emma and Jaq,
I wanted to say a big thank you for all of your help and advice yesterday. I was on my first visit to your shop after a tiring drive but felt like I had stepped into a friends home. It was such a pleasure to actually have a choice of outfits to try on instead of grabbing the only thing that fitted! I can't wait to wear my new dress to the wedding and it has helped me feel more confident knowing that I have a fabulous outfit to wear. Thanks again, will post a photo to you after the wedding. Keep up the good work, best wishes, Chrissi.

 
Hi Chrissi

Thank you so much for your post! I hope the wedding goes wonderfully. You looked fabulous in your dress!

It was great to meet you, and I'm glad that you found the trip down worthwhile.

We really would be so grateful to have a photo of you wearing the dress... These are the kinds of things that really help bring our forum to life.

Hope to see you again soon.

 
What is it that the world’s most famous pear-shaped woman, Jennifer Lopez, could teach the pear-shaped women I get in my shop? I believe she could teach many of them to enjoy their body form more than they do. For Jennifer celebrates and accentuates her curves to great effect.

The pear shape is arguably the most common body shape in the UK. So much so that it is referred to in the trade as the ‘Great British Pear’. It is a very feminine shape, and is, apparently, the healthiest body shape for the larger woman.

A pear-shaped woman, as you would expect, has a larger bottom half than her top half. Many hour-glass women think they are pear shaped because they have small waists and large hips, but a true pear shape is actually a smaller size on the whole of the top half of her body. She will often have narrow shoulders, slim back, small waist and a small bust. In fact, the top half of her body is in perfect proportion with itself. Sometimes she may be able to buy mainstream-sized clothing to fit her upper body.

From the waist down, the pear shaped woman is larger. Her hips are larger and wider; she has a bigger bottom and will often have large thighs. Usually she will enjoy this extra width all the way down to her ankles.

For the pear-shapers, the bottom half can sometimes be a fraught area. If you are one of those who feel insecure about your legs or bottom, I would counsel trying to adopt as positive an attitude as you can. The bottom half of your body is a long way away from your face (that’s a good thing!), and with the usual tricks of concealment and distraction, even the largest legs and hips really needn’t present any kind of a style problem.

Most pear shapes are able to wear any number of really pretty skirts and trousers, in many different styles and colours, but some find this body region a challenge. For those who are particularly self-conscious about their lower body, I would suggest the usual concealment tactics. The fabric of the clothing should be reasonably firm (not too silky, clingy, translucent or flimsy), of a darkish colour (that doesn’t have to mean black!), and with a matt surface (very shiny fabrics should be avoided on larger legs). It is possible to go for quite a drapey fabric (like the viscose/lycra jersey) if there is enough weight in the material to pull it down rather than have it cling to the legs. Don't be put off by past experience with fabrics. Fabric technology moves on all the time, and fabrics like a fluid jersey, which a few years ago would have been rather flimsy and revealing, are much improved. Look for a high lycra content, which makes a big difference to the flow of the fabric.

In our shop we move heaven and earth to get longer lengths of skirts and dresses. You would be amazed at how difficult it can be at times! I would like the large-size clothing suppliers to know that - regardless of the fashion of the day, or whatever season it is - many women will always want the longer length skirts.

At a later date I will be writing about some items of lingerie that will help with wearing skirts without tights in the summer.

I hope you will really believe me (some of you will be dubious, I know!), when I mention that there are some fantastic boots available on the market right now - that will fit you easily. Companies like Duo sell wonderful boots in wider sizes that really do look excellent on larger legs. This will help if you cannot find long enough skirts. I have always observed that if you don’t buy something valuable like this when it is available, you may never get the chance again, and I imagine that, right now, they are working on an excellent Autumn/Winter selection. (Just in case you were wondering, I don’t have a contract to promote Duo boots!)

For those pear-shaped women who have always wanted to wear trousers, but have not found any that are right, I have super news. There are trousers on the market just now that you really should try! The new styles of super-wide trousers are fantastic on larger legs, whilst looking drop-dead trendy.

This is a game of two halves, and I will now move up to the top half of the body. The main problem here is that of proportion - getting the balance right. If, for instance, a pear shaper wishes to wear either a jacket or shirt that is long and full enough to cover her bottom and thighs, sometimes she makes the mistake of wearing a really baggy top. This is not a good thing. Tops for the pear shapes can be soft (they don’t have to be tight fitting), but they should never be too big, wide or bulky - especially at the shoulder.

I can understand why this happens: in order to get a blouse or jacket generous enough to comfortably skim her hips, she may have to go for a much wider size than she would normally choose for her top half. Thankfully, I have noticed that my customers (as I have pointed out before, an intelligent bunch) automatically ignore the ‘style advice’ often given on TV and in magazines of trying to even-up one’s proportions by making your top half look bigger (with say, over-sized shoulder pads). This has got to be the stupidest advice known in the fashion world - and that is really saying something! So buying a larger-proportioned top is not a good idea.

I would suggest that if a pear-shaper was looking for a long blouse, it would be worth looking for those on a yoke. Basically this is a style feature where the width of the shoulders is kept narrow, and fabric is gathered into the yoke, providing more fabric with less visual width. Watch out particularly for yokes on the back, as well as the front of the garment. Every centimetre of gather is providing twice the width. Another thing to look out for are garments with side vents. These are the splits in the sides of a shirt or jacket that ease its drape over the bottom or hips. The recent trend for A-line tops (which are narrow on the shoulder and wide on the hip) can also look fantastic.

So much for having the tops too wide and baggy, but the opposite problem of proportion can also occur. This is when the apple-shaper opts for a tiny top. I can see the attraction of this: logic dictates that it is a good idea to draw attention to your best features. Although it may be attractively small, my advice is to try to resist too much emphasis on the waist. Like us apple-shapers (who cannot make too much of our good legs), the pear shape will only over-emphasise her weaker area if she tries to make the very most of her best feature. If a pear shaped woman wears a too nipped-in waist, she will automatically draw attention to the width of her hips.

Similarly if she wears a short, tight-fitting jacket, she will end up looking very disproportionate... as if the top half of a small, short woman has been attached to the bottom half of a much taller, larger woman.

It is far better to try to select a slightly longer jacket or fitted blouse or dress, which is neat fitting, but not too tight. A good idea would be for it to have a rather high waist. This is because the fall of the garment is not then at such an acute angle. The garment will flow softly out from, say, an empire-style jacket, and just glide over the hips and thighs with very little emphasis.

It is particularly on her top half that the pear shaped woman should wear colour. I will write about the subject of colour in fashion in a subsequent blog, but it is worth noting here that you should always look for the strongest version of a colour that you look good in. If you feel you can carry off a really positive colour, both physically and emotionally, you will get a lot of benefit out of it. So a colourful blouse or jacket, backed up with a killer necklace, is going to bring a look together. You will start to feel brighter the minute you put it on.

Similarly, if you are able to rock the whole cleavage look, this is a very good idea for pear-shapers. Many pear shaped women are quite small busted, but this need not prevent you from having a cleavage in this day and age! Lingerie has come a long way in the last few years.

The tool that the pear shaped woman should always have in mind is a good alteration service. A jacket can be bought large enough to cover the hips and thighs, and the top half can be taken-in for a perfect fit. With an undertaking like this it is essential to get the right help. Naturally, while the person who is doing the alteration work is very important, the person who is pinning the garment is key. This may or may not be the same person, but don't automatically assume that an excellent alteration person will know how to pin a garment on you. They really have to know exactly the effect you are going for, because they are re-styling the piece.

Don’t be afraid to have side-vents put into your tops - they’re very effective, and you may wish to undertake this yourself. To get the right spot, look at the garment whilst you are wearing it, and identify where it starts to ‘sit’ on your hip. This is where the side vent should start. This is a simple job that you may be able to get your local dry-cleaner to complete, and will help you rescue your ill-fitting tops. It could be that a top already has side vents, but they simply aren't long enough. This can usually be easily remedied.

Once a pear-shaped woman has got her look off pat - with a sleek understated bottom half, and soft, feminine and colourful top half, brought together with good accessories - she will enjoy the potential she has to look truly superb.

The majority of my most stunning customers are pear shapers. Eat your heart out, Jennifer Lopez!

 
The large-busted woman (or for those of you who enjoy self-deprecating humour - the ‘melon woman’), has to endure a double-whammy... in more ways than one!

On the one hand, like most larger women, she has a body shape that over-emphasises one area of her physique - something that always presents a challenge. But her extra problem is that she is often envied by other women, and may have to endure being told by family and friends: ‘if you’ve got it, flaunt it’.

That's because this is the era of the large bust. In magazines and on TV, large busts are everywhere - and they are being well and truly flaunted. Yet, as the large busted woman knows, care has to be taken to dress this body shape properly in order to make the best of it.

The large-busted body shape is a very common and celebrated one. Naturally, this body shape comprises a large bust on a more modestly proportioned body. But this body shape has quite a few variations. There are some large-busted women who have a tiny frame. These women are short, with narrow shoulders and backs, and smallish hips. There are large-busted women who are tall, with a large frame, and broad shoulders. And there are large-busted women who are basically 'apple women' (see earlier post), but with the addition of a more substantial chest. I am not including in this category women who also have a large bottom half: these women are in fact 'hourglass' shapes.

Typically, fashion models lose all their body fat yet still retain a vestige of a bust. One glance at Kate Moss (pictured) will reveal an individual who has virtually no hips, no bottom, tiny legs, etc., yet - against all the odds - still has a bust (of sorts!). It may amaze you to realise that Kate Moss is actually a melon woman! This is just one indication of the fact that busts are considered the ‘acceptable’ place for women to carry their weight.

I have found that, despite the wide varieties in body shape, melon women fit neatly into two different categories. On the one hand, there are the women who do indeed really enjoy their voluptuous shape, and show it off to great effect. On the other, there are women who wish to show discretion about their extra inches, and do what they can to adopt a more streamlined silhouette.

It is an interesting point that, as in all areas of fashion, psychology has a huge impact. Some women really cannot deal with the extra attention that the display of a large cleavage brings. Some women feel good in their own skin, and are happy to reveal their shape. And some simply like to present what they feel to be a more sophisticated, sleeker look.

Arguably, life is easier for those women who like to show off their bust. There are various designers (like Anna Scholz, for example), who celebrate this body shape, and provide beautiful, celebratory, sexy and sometimes flamboyant clothes. The most important aspect for women who are 'endowed and proud' is to ensure that the fit is correct. Like anything in life, if you are going to go loud, you have to ensure that your look passes close scrutiny - because you are courting attention. Ill fitting, badly made items of clothing, if worn on a large bust, will immediately become ultra-noticeable and look cheap. This is not the place to try to get away with a mediocre garment.

The most important service that a store can provide for a woman who is happy to display her bust is to stock beautiful clothes in the right kind of styles, backed up with a good alteration service. Countrywide, it is very difficult to find a really good selection along these lines; many large-size stores just assume that all large-busted women wish to cover-up. One has to seek out stores that have the philosophy one is looking for, and be prepared to make a sometimes-arduous journey to find what one wants.

When giving tips about dressing this body shape, it is a good idea to start with points that may help women who both wish to celebrate their bust size, and those who wish to minimise their silhouette.

If a woman wants to dress properly whatever her size or shape (but particularly if she is large-busted), she should start with the right lingerie. I will discuss the subject of foundation wear in a subsequent blog. But once the lingerie is right, she can move on to to her outer clothing, and perhaps start by thinking about what is best avoided.

Basically, anything that describes a widthways line across the chest should be given a wide berth (as it were!). This includes obvious things like stripes across the chest, but it also means eliminating items such as square necks. Sleeves that finish above the elbow are usually a no-no, because, again, this stretches the visual width of this area. Even women who are particularly proud of their busts will not want (or need) to make themselves look wider at this point.

With jackets, a medium depth round or V-neck is good. Care must be taken not to adopt a very low-necked jacket, however, as this will gape over the bust.

Women with a large bust must choose clothes that either hang down straight from the bust (with maybe a heavy fabric), or that are tailored-in under the bust. This is because if the fabric flows freely over a large bust, it will swing forward, like a tablecloth swinging from a table - and this has a very enlarging effect.

When a soft fabric is being worn (like knits or jerseys), some kind of structure is needed at the shoulder. Unobtrusive pads should be put into the garments to give a sharper definition to the shoulders-not to add bulk, but to negate any rounded effect that would otherwise emphasise the roundness of the bust. This will make the body shape look younger and more streamlined.

Unfortunately, this is where things become far more complicated, because, as I have mentioned, every bust is different. I feel a bit bad about writing this blog, because to a certain extent I am cheating my large-busted readers, who may be expecting some handy tips. Yet unlike any other body shape, melon women are very individual, and rules that apply to all of them are few and far between!

Apple shaped women are apple-shaped in almost identical ways: we all have a large stomach, and - tall or short - it nearly always looks the same. Larger busts are not like this at all. A woman may have her bust just at the front (like headlamps), or they may be towards the sides, almost under her arms. These extra inches may also go round the back on to her shoulder blades. Another woman may be very long-waisted, and have difficulty in finding items with the waist low enough. Other busts can start quite high up.

There are many, many different variations, and often it takes a skilled fashion consultant to help pick out a selection of garments to be tried on. Sometimes the process of seeing how these items look when worn can be exhausting-but great fun when you find you are making progress. There are few more satisfying things in life than finding some gorgeous clothes that you feel really good in.

This is an instance when mail-order, or internet shopping, can be a frustrating and lonely experience. It is impossible to know the effect of garments, chosen from looking at a photograph, until they have been tried on, rejected, repackaged and returned time and again, with only the select few chosen to keep. However, the perseverence is worth it. Large busted women can look truly superb.

Similarly, these differences may make a huge impact on what works on any particular woman. For example, believe it or not, breast pockets can actually work well. They can break up this wide expanse of upper body, and create a younger look. But they have to be at the right size (small) and the right level (highish), and with minimal detailing (avoiding buttons and flaps, for example). If the wrong breast pockets are chosen, they will have the opposite effect - overemphasising the bust to a ridiculous and unflattering degree! And pockets that work superbly on one large-busted woman may look abominable on another.

It is the women who wish to disguise their bust that particularly need to be careful... and clever. Disguising a large bust is, arguably, one of the most difficult tasks for a stylist. This is because a large bust is really ‘in your face'. The bust is situated in one of the most prominent parts of the body - unlike, for instance, the hips or legs, which can be tucked out of sight. However, the methods that are used are the same as ever... our old friends concealment and distraction.

The neckline is of supreme importance. It cannot be too high because this creates a large blank area at the top of the torso that is very matronly. Of course, the neckline should not be too low either, or the cleavage will be displayed - an anathema to the bust-concealing woman!

As with most concealment and distraction, layering is helpful. Again, a good jacket (or shirt worn open as a jacket) works well. If the need to minimise the bust is key, then the jacket/shirt can be a darkish colour. If the over-garment is being worn open it will do the trick of cutting the body in half widthways, and the top underneath can be more vibrant - as it will only be seen as a slither of contrasting colour.

Attention can also be drawn downwards. Over the years I have seen many large-busted women wearing the most fantastic footwear! Accessories are useful - a long (but not too long) necklace, which is colourful but not chunky, can be used to give a downward line at the bust, also breaking it widthways. Beware of over-emphasising a small bottom half though, because this will backfire and make one look top heavy.

Large-busted women are very lucky in their ability to wear dresses. The right dress will have the advantage of tending to streamline the body shape, and will not over-emphasise any particular part. Hanging discreetly from the bust, a good dress will skim over the body, creating a lengthening effect. But the key to achieving the right look will almost certainly be input from a good alteration service, to ensure a perfect fit.

Arguably the most attractive of all body shapes, the large-busted woman has fantastic potential to look stunning. And if she doesn’t want to go for stunning, then she can achieve sophisticated and understated instead. The choice is hers. If she wishes, she has the ability to be defined by her personal taste and chosen image, rather than her body shape.

 
Hi Ladies, as promised a picture of me in the lovely outfit you helped me chose for my son's very important day. You cannot see but I am wearing lovely cream trousers. I felt really good all day, no fiddling with straps, buttons etc - I just put my clothes on and sailed through the day knowing that I may be a larger lady - but I was a very well dressed larger lady!! My husband and son thought I look lovely , as did most of the 100 guests at the party in the afternoon. We all had a great day, the sun shone even though it was supposed to rain, and we all returned home very tired late into the evening (having been woken up at 4am by a very excited little boy). If I get a better picture I will upload it, or I will upload one from the wedding we are attending next month. Once again, many thanks for all you help with the outfit and my other bits, and for putting up with me changing my mind. I will defintely return to you again, especially if I need something for a special day so that I am guaranteed that no-one else will be wearing the same as me, and because I know that you will ensure that it fits me perfectly! See you all soon. Sandra

 
Hi Sandra

Thank you so much for your lovely post, and for taking the time to send us the picture - it really makes such a difference to us!

I’m so glad that you enjoyed your great day - you really look gorgeous, and your young gentleman looks very smart, too!

We all thought you were such a lovely family, and really enjoyed meeting you. Hope the wedding is wonderful, and that the weather is good for you again...

 
I was just wondering how long one could discuss the hourglass body shape, before mentioning Marilyn Monroe... Not very long, it seems. For Marilyn was the most famous hourglass-shaped woman of all time, who certainly managed to make quite an impression in her 38 years on this planet.

The interesting thing is that Marilyn Monroe, who was a size 16, was a ‘plus size’ woman, and would be considered ridiculously large compared with today’s actors and models, who rarely make it into double digits in the size stakes. I would suggest that she remains a far more attractive cultural presence that almost anyone around today, and that a substantial part of her appeal is her beautiful body shape.

The hourglass body shape is everything you would expect from its name. The top half of the body is more or less in proportion with the bottom half. Women tend to have a good bust, balanced with proportionate shoulders, a disproportionately small waist, and hips that mirror the shoulder silhouette.

Actually, among my customers (and probably worldwide), the hourglass shape woman would typically have rather more sand in the bottom half of the glass. Many times the bottom, hips and legs are slightly larger than the top half.

The hourglass is the ‘ultra’ feminine shape - one that many would wish to have. But, as ever, it does throw up various challenges when trying to dress it well.

There are the usual issues when clothing exaggeratedly feminine body shapes - the three ‘P’s: physical, psychological and philosophical. Does the woman feel happy with this body shape? Does it reflect the inner person? Does it announce something about her to the world, by which she is judged? Can she carry off the extra notice that such an attention-grabbing body shape brings? And how does she make it look good?

When a size 10 woman is an hourglass shape, clothing is not really much at issue. She can choose to dress herself more or less in whatever way she wishes. She can go for girly and ultra-feminine, or rather boyish, or any one of ten thousand differing looks.

But a larger woman has a lot more lead in her pencil. A woman of, say, size 26, who is an hourglass shape, will have a much more exaggerated body shape. If she wishes to underplay her shape, her proportions will limit her options (if she needs to look good). If, on the other hand, she wants to celebrate and accentuate her shape, she may find that the end result is just too much. Put more succinctly, if the size 10 hourglass woman is a 25-watt lightbulb, then the size 26 hourglass woman is a hundred-megawatt stadium lamp.

It is for this reason that even if a large hourglass-figured woman feels really good about her shape, she does usually tone it down a bit - for everyday, at least. With this body shape one can celebrate the figure without overstating the positives! The hourglass women that I see in the store nearly all seem to share the same philosophy: they want to look good, and they feel reasonably happy about what nature has given them (although, being women, they nearly always would prefer less sand in the glass!). This body shape does not throw up the same kinds of problems as, say, the apple shape (who need to hide their stomachs) or the large busted woman (some of whom often are desperate to disguise their bust). The hourglass woman just needs to go with the flow.

For the hourglass woman, shapeless in not an option. If, for example, such a woman wanted to wear the casual staple of jeans and check shirt, she has to be extremely careful. If she opts for a non-tailored shirt, even if it is a good quality one, she could end up looking as if she had bought the whole ensemble at a charity shop. This is because if one puts shapeless garments over a curvy figure, they will instantly look lumpy. When clothes look so obviously ill fitting, they will appear not to belong to the wearer.

The fashion industry is renowned for being bitchy and cutting - and for telling the truth, no matter how politically incorrect or hurtful it is. It is in this unkind spirit that I suggest that if an hourglass-shaped woman wears a shapeless outfit, then she instantly knocks 20 points off her perceived IQ. If an apple shaped woman wears a shapeless item of clothing, the observer will simply assume that she cannot find anything that she can make herself look good in (not a great thing in itself!). Yet it is worse for an hourglass shaped woman. If a curvy woman attempts the shapeless look, she will look dim-witted and lost. I think this is because, subconsciously, the onlooker will see that she has so much potential that she would have to be an idiot not to have made something of it!

To avoid this catastrophe, hourglass women have to take particular care if they wish to wear androgynous looks, and have to obtain clothes that will achieve this whilst suiting their shape. So in the example of the check shirt and jeans, they would have to find shirts that are at least subtly tailored-in at the waist, and out again over the hip. A simple casual shirt won’t look too girly, but the effect will be that of someone who has 'got their act together', and has made an informed, intelligent choice with their clothes.

Of course, this body shape really does look good in feminine clothes. Dresses (crossover, full-skirted, empire line - there are many that suit the hourglass shape) and skirts look very good. Again, because the shape is curvy, care should be taken to ensure the clothing follows the body's contours.

This is particularly true for trousers, which should be well cut, not shapeless. They can be straight-legged, wide, or subtly tailored, but never very narrow or tapered, as this will add to the width of the thigh and hip.

As ever, with any disproportionately small area of the body, the waist should not be over-emphasised. If, for instance, a wide belt is worn tightly cinched-in at the waist, then the bust and hips will look a lot larger. In making this observation I am reflecting my 20 years’ experience of dressing hourglass women. Arguably, there is nothing wrong with emphasising a full bust with balancing hips; no matter how large the woman, it is a very attractive body shape. However, I know that my customers would prefer not to emphasise their larger areas, and are generally very uncomfortable with the over-exaggeration of their proportions that this kind of dressing produces - despite what certain TV stylists insist! If you’ve got it, and you would like to flaunt it, that’s great. But you have to know that you can carry it off.

So this body shape actually has quite a narrow band of stylistic choices when dressing for best effect. If she is going for a feminine look the hourglass woman will find that most feminine styles suit her, but she must be careful to go for the slightly pared-down, somewhat modest look. She doesn’t have to try too hard to look absolutely stunning.

If, however, she is not inclined to go for stunning, and prefers the less feminine look, she still has go for shaped, tailored clothes. Lumpy and lost is not an option if you want to look good!

The hourglass woman doesn’t need to be told that she looks good and has the potential to look stunning - she already knows it. And so do the rest of us - it’s there for all to see!

 
Hi,
Thanks for sending this to me on twitter – it was very interesting to read. I’ve been a plus size model for the last 5 years; I know exactly how stunning hourglass figures can look!

I would like to point out that although Monroe is most famous for having an hourglass silhouette, she actually wasn’t a plus-size or a true hourglass – her standard measurements were bust:37, waist:23, hips:35, many people confuse her bra size (35C) and add this to her hourglass figure but its technically incorrect - bra sizes are calculated by reducing 3inches from the original measurements (for cup sizes A-C) – this making her true measurements 38-22-35 (some even argue she was a bra size 37D, this makes her measurements 40-22-35), Monroe was top heavy – not an hour glass.

Although it’s arguable about which sizes are considered 'plus-size' now-a-days (some say it’s a standard size 12 others say it’s a 16) it’s usually accepted that the smallest 'plus-size' will have the following measurements – bust: 39.5, waist: 32, hips: 42, obviously Monroe was no where near this.

In Marilyn’s day, she was a dress size 12; standard measurement clothes sizes changed in the 1970s from the standard measurement being a 'dress size' to being 'pants size'. According to Columbia Studios in 1948 weighed 118lbs (rumours of her weight fluctuating up to 140lbs) with a pants size of 8. As curvy and beautiful as Marilyn was, at most she would have been a size 10-12.

The size 16 myth started in the early ‘90s by pro-size advocates in the USA, unfortunately it is completely false.
Official hourglass figures are calculated using a 75% rule – in my instance as a plus-size model with an hourglass shape, my measurements are 47 – 34 – 47, bust and hips must essentially be the same (of course there aren’t going to be perfectly spot on every time, but they can’t be more than 1 inch apart) and my waist is less than 75% of my bust/hips. Above is a simple diagram for working out what a woman’s shape is.

I don’t want to come across as venomous by writing all of this, big girls need much more support then what’s out there and the fashion industry is horrendous for its treatment of plus-sizes. I just don’t think spreading rumours and falsely defining someone 'to make them feel better' is correct either – the fact is men do prefer women with curves. Personally, I’m of the belief that no matter what your size, weight, height, shape, hair colour, skin colour on wards – if you show that you are comfortable with whom you are then you’ll be perceived as sexy – as we should all know by now, confidence comes from within – not someone classifying you as ‘whatever shape’ for whatever reason.

- Hanna

Sources:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=1005120802556
http://marilynmonroepages.com/facts.html
http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article6044724.ece
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071219090353AANL56Y

 
Hi Hanna

Thanks so much for your interesting and informative post! I was intrigued to hear that you are a plus size model - I wonder if you would be kind enough to show us a picture? (By the way, I don’t know whether you had heard that Anna Scholz has been looking for a new model?)

I do absolutely take on board that Marilyn was not what would be called nowadays a ‘plus-size model’ (as I think the world has moved on, and plus size models these days usually are at least a proper size 18). But her weight did fluctuate and, even at her slimmest, her body shape was much fuller than the modern-day movie star.

It’s interesting that she was not an hourglass shape, but was in fact a busty woman. This does fit in with the usual body shape for models and actors. However, having looked at her films, I do feel that the width of her hips was accentuated by the styles of the time (especially the nipped-in waists created by the underwear worn then). As I have mentioned before, accentuating one part of the physique often exaggerates another part - and thus she was given an hourglass shape.

I also have to agree with you that confidence and happiness, rather than size, really does affect attractiveness. If anyone has any doubt about this, I suggest they come and sit in my shop for a morning. I’m not just saying this... I really believe that any impartial observer would conclude that the women using my store are far more attractive than the national average, even though they are above average size!

 
Hi Emma and ladies at Emma Plus

Just wanted to say thank you for the cream top that I received last week. What a difference alterations make. It is now like it was made for me. I have already received two compliments this morning on my outfit. I am wearing it with my cobalt blue trousers also from Emma Plus.

Looking forward to my next trip down to Emma Plus.

Clare

 
Hi Clare

Thanks so much for your comments - I'm glad you were happy with your alterations!

The only thing missing from your post is a lovely photo of you wearing the items...!

 
They always say that if you disagree with someone, you should try to walk a mile in their shoes. This usually works... for one thing you will be a mile away from them - and you will have their shoes!

The well-proportioned plus-size woman metaphorically wears different shoes from most other large women. Like the rest of us, she is beyond the size range where clothes are easy to find, and from her perspective it may look as if she is in the same position as any other woman of size. But things are actually quite different.

The tiny minority of women who are well proportioned are the fashion artistocrats of the female population. Even among very slim women, this is a very rare body shape. It is ironic that, in the design world at least, this physique is considered the norm!

I once had a customer who proudly told me about her job. She was a size 24 pattern-cutter’s model - the only one in the country at the time. Apparently, she was the sole professional model in the whole of Great Britain whose measurements were the ‘perfect’ size-24 shape, and she was much in demand by the chain stores for fitting their plus-size garments. Cynic that I was, I couldn’t help thinking that the fact that the chain stores were creating clothes for this vanishingly-rare body shape must have something to do with the paucity of well-fitting clothes to be found on the high street in our sizes.

Unlike other large body-types, generally most designs will suit a well-proportioned woman, so there is no need for me to suggest, for example, the kinds of jacket shape she should look for. Usually she will be able to choose any style; the only obvious exceptions being those items that don’t seem to suit any large woman. So double-breasted jackets, are, for example, be as much of a no-no for the well-proportioned woman as they are for just about everybody else!

Of course, it isn’t always plain sailing for the well-proportioned woman. She has major problems... like getting really good clothes in her size, sorting out the best things to wear for her height, clothes that are right for her complection, or the correct styles to suit her personality. In short, she has some of the same problems that the rest of us have, but without the added issues of concealment, re-proportioning, distraction, etc.

Well-proportioned women usually look smaller than they are. If they wear good quality clothes they quite often find that people are rather surprised to hear about their size. With some women, friends often assume they are not plus-size at all - which is a bit bizarre when you realise I am talking about those who are larger than a size 20.

Many of the issues associated with being a large-size woman simply don’t exist for the well-proportioned woman. There may be howls of disagreement there; if you are a large person - even one with a good figure - you can still feel marginalised, simply because it is so difficult to find clothes.

Nearly all large women have problems obtaining the clothes they want, and this is frustrating and alienating. Yet for many large women, what they really feel most insecure about isn’t actually their size, or the accompanying difficulty in finding outfits, it is having to come to terms with that part of their body that is ‘disproportionately’ large.

I used to work in ‘mainstream’ fashion and I was immensely irritated by women constantly complaining about their ‘flabby’ hips or thighs - when they were a size 8! Yet it is actually disproportion that causes the most distress across the size range - from the smallest to the largest. A very slim woman, with a disproportionately large bottom, for example, will be more dissatisfied with her body shape than a much larger well-proportioned lady. And it is this issue that creates most of the challenges in dressing well.

Luckily for the well-proportioned woman, she will never have to know what it is like to have these issues with proportions - I’m happy for her that she does not have to walk a mile in our shoes...

 
Hi Emma,
I first posted back in February (No. 8). I've now lost 2 stone, with only 4 weeks to go until the wedding. If I let you know my measurements could you plase give me an idea of the sorts of dresses, skirts and tops/ or trousers and tops which are summery you have in stock?

 
Hi Natalie

Congratulations on your wonderful achievement! I’m so glad that you have been able to slim down!

We’re always happy to help with advice about stock holding. I think it would be a fab idea to have a bit of a chat on the telephone about what it is that you are particularly looking for. Our number is 01273 327240. When we have identified what you would really like, we could email you photographs - which is very convenient!

As you can imagine the season is drawing to a close right now, and things are selling through by the day. Generally, it’s advisable for you to get into the shop as soon as you are able so that you can have a good trying on session. It’s always sad to find that you have fallen in love with something, yet just get pipped at the post by someone who gets in here before you!

Don’t worry if you are still losing - we can usually find an outfit that fits you now, then alter it in the last week or two before the event, so that you have a stress-free perfect fit on the day!

Hope to see or hear from you soon...

 
The retailer’s life is a busy one: no sooner had we got back from our holidays than we were getting our summer sale ready.

Our sale is one of the big events of our year. Because we are very much a fashion shop (as opposed to a clothes shop - something rather different!), we are more or less obliged to clear all our stock at the end of each season. Even though the designer collections are usually far ahead of the game when it comes to the latest looks, this is really the only way to keep the shop looking fresh and directional.

I know shops (let’s be honest, I’ve worked in them) that try to filter-in their past collections’ clothing into their current range, cutting out much of the ‘sale reductions’ bother. One can see why people do this. It does seem a terrible shame to sell beautiful new clothes at a considerable discount, just because the season has come to an end - especially as the season finishes so early. For the summer, this means the season ends in mid-to-end July... ridiculously early when you think about when it is that women are really going to wear their warm-weather clothes. In August and early September the canny customer can be making full use of her ‘steal’ items, bought for far less than their true market worth. For the retailer, who has herself paid top dollar for these lovely items, it’s heartbreaking to contemplate selling them at a loss, and the temptation is simply to hang on to the best of the last season’s stock. These items are secreted away, whilst the rump of the collection is discounted. After the sale, they are then put out again when the new collection arrives... or salted away for the next summer.

With classic items, the shops that do this can sometimes get away with it. Yet there is a price to pay: this can never happen if the shop is presenting a fashion-forward philosophy. It just doesn’t work with the fashion-conscious consumer, who hasn’t made the trip into the store just to find the same old, 'same-old' being trotted out every season. The stock holding will start to look very woolly after a few seasons if this policy is continued. Not to mention the fact that the sale will be a rather disappointing affair, with all the best items withheld.

It’s a truth generally unacknowledged in the trade that some customers are far more fashion aware than some store owners! Many of them are true experts in their field, and they are in the store looking for excitement and inspiration. These women sometimes take this attempt to fob them off with slightly older looks as a personal affront. And they don’t take kindly to lack-lustre sales!

So no matter how painful it is to the poor retailer, the sale is the natural cut-off point where the vast majority of the past season’s collection is given away at a knock-down price, and the store is left clear and empty for the new deliveries.

For us, this means that quite new, beautiful clothes, that only came into stock a very few weeks ago, are put on our rails at a considerable discount, and I get to watch people walking out my door, having paid a low price for something really rather beautiful. Very often my nose is rubbed in it even further, by my seeing the customer really delighted with her purchase, leaving with a big smug smile on her face. And so she should!

We’ve had rather a good season this summer (there are many reasons why: the internet, the loss of our competitors... various things), but nevertheless we do have a wide range of stock that is going to be discounted very heavily this year. Actually, it will probably be our best ever sale. Even now that the sale has been running for a few weeks, the further reductions are exceptionally good.

One can never second-guess what is going to end up in the sale. In our store, if you see something you like, it really is advisable to buy it when you first see it - probably paying full-price. I know what you’re thinking - I would say that, wouldn’t I? But our seasoned customers know that the vast majority of our clothing is there for just weeks if not days in the store. Things tend to get snapped up quickly in a specialist shop. If something you have had your eye on ends up in the sale, that is particularly lucky for you. Yet the items left behind by the tide of consumer choice are in no way rejects. Bizarrely, sometimes the most beautiful things are overlooked, and await the sale - like pearls abandoned on the seashore.

So if you are of a slightly cruel disposition, and would enjoy rubbing my nose in it by buying something rather beautiful for far less than I consider it to be worth, then perhaps I may see you in the store some time soon?

Our sale continues until the end of September, and new reductions are added weekly. The prices for the summer collection are at clearance levels now.....

 
Hi, I found you via the Anna Scholz website. I was in Brighton a couple of weeks ago so popped in for the first time and was made to feel very welcome. I was not looking for anything in particular, just anything that grabbed my eye and at Kim's suggestion tried on a pair of Brand jeans. They were devine, so comfortable and well styled, no more gaps at the waist! I called you this morning and I'm pleased to say the jeans had arrived safely when I got home. I'm wearing them now and very pleased with the altered leg length and I'm sure they will not be the last pair of jeans I buy from you. The alteration service is a great added bonus. I'm in Brighton tomorrow so I hope I have time to call and browse through your sale items but if not I will call in again later in the year as it's so nice to visit a retailer who offers the level of service you do.

 
Hi Kim!

Thank you so much for your lovely post. I’m so glad you liked the Brand jeans. We haven’t been doing this collection for very long, but it has already become a great hit.

We used to stock a lovely collection of trousers called BS Casuals, which sadly disappeared. They had a large following, and I was distraught. However, I have found that Brand has really come to the rescue, with many customers reporting that they actually prefer them to the BS trousers.

Since you were last in, we have had some gorgeous Brand jeans come in. They are a deep purple-aubergine colour. You may be interested in looking at them.

The other small point that you may be interested in is a certain little tradition that we have in the Emma Plus sale. That is, for the first two days of the sale (the date of which is not widely advertised, so generally is known only to either those on our mailing-list, or the followers of this blog) we offer 10% off all new stock. I have never known any other retailer do this. We do it as a thank you to our loyal customers.

So if you find a pair of ‘brand new’ Brand trousers on Friday or Saturday, you will get them at a 10% reduction…….

 
I'm so pleased I was able to visit late Friday afternoon, the aubergine Brand jeans were fab and will go well with several tops I already own, including the one I was wearing on the day! It was meant to be. I am really delighted with the elana miro top and skirt, thank you so much for drawing my attention to the top. I wouldn't have tried it on otherwise and would have missed having a complete outfit. I will take it on holiday with me next week. I am not familiar with the elana miro label, but the cut of the garments are very flattering. Loved the service and very welcome cup of coffee. Thank you all again!

 
Hi Kim

Thank you so much for your post! Aren’t the trousers lovely? It’s always difficult to describe a colour in words - if they had been a stronger purple colour they would have been more limiting, but this deep aubergine will go with anything. Sorry you nearly missed out on the 10% discount - that would never do!

I think you will like the Elena Miro range, which, being Italian, is very feminine - with a fit that will suit your figure. That set is incredibly cool, so I hope you get good weather.

Hope you have a fab holiday, and that we see you again soon...

 
Hi,

I just wanted to thank you all so much, for helping me find a stunning new frock!

I came into your lovely shop last week on a trip down to Brighton from Manchester and am so glad I did!

It was such a welcoming environment and the service was wonderful. Kim really helped me find a gorgeous dress, a beautiful Anna Scholz orange and black knot dress that I just feel wonderful in and will gorgeous at my friends wedding in September.

I know I'll be down in Brighton again visitng my family and will absolutely be popping in to say hello and have another little browse.

Thanks again ladies you were lovely.

Kerri

 
Hi Kerri

Thank you for your post - I will pass on your kind words to Kim.

I’m so glad that you found a gorgeous Anna Scholz dress. I don’t know whether you have seen her clothes before - she is the foremost designer in the large-size market at the moment. Her clothes are really celebratory, and are what everyone wants to wear. We get quite a lot of small people wanting them too. It must be a bit of an unexpected surprise for them to find that we don’t stock them in their size!

Hope the wedding is fab - see you again soon.

 
Be careful what you wish for... as if you get it, you may not be so pleased with it after all. Many of my customers complain that they are too curvy - yet if they were without their curves, I think they would miss them.

Large women usually have at least one part of their body that they believe is disproportionately big. It could be that they have a generously sized stomach, a magnificent bust or a bootyliscious bottom that they feel they could live without. The ‘athletic’ build woman, on the other hand, has no such problem. It is more likely that she will worry about not having enough shape.

The athletic-shaped woman (I call her this, because this is actually the shape of the majority of female athletes - it doesn’t necessarily mean that everyone with this bodyshape is athletic) is actually rather well-proportioned. She is symmetrical, with no area of her body presenting any particular issue. She tends to have reasonably wide shoulders, medium thickness in limbs, rather a thick waist, and a slightly smaller bust and hips than one would expect for her size.

In many ways it’s great to be this body shape. It is a real advantage not to have any part of one’s body that is constantly making you feel self-conscious. These women (like their well-proportioned sisters) tend to look slimmer than they are. They carry their weight well, having less cellulite than other women (they will stoutly disagree with me here, but no matter... I am right!). Gravity does not have such a pull on their flesh as they grow older (because it is well-distributed around their frame). And, possibly because of this, many of them move very well, and tend to be more active than the average woman.

But (and you knew there was going to be a but!) their shape is not a feminine one, and they have particular issues to deal with if they wish to dress well.

When a woman has a shape that is not naturally particularly feminine, there are two main temptations, both of which have to be resolutely resisted...

The first is trying to feminise to an exaggerated extent. You can see why people would do this. It’s a natural urge to make up for a deficit by over-compensating. The problem is, if a woman with an athletic build tries to wear a hyper-feminine look, she can actually emphasise her lack of feminine features, and end up looking rather incongruous. It can appear immature and undignified if a large woman, with a signal lack of feminine shape, tries to sport a frilly or flouncy look. And trying for a silhouette showcasing the usual female hotspots (like an ample cleavage, small waist or curvy hips) can misfire and only serve to display the lack of these assets.

The other temptation is to take the line of least resistance and opt for a mannish look. Well, one may think, if I don’t have the emphatic female shape, perhaps I should just accept that and adopt an androgynous style.

For those with a mannish, androgynous personality, this is probably an excellent idea: nothing could possibly suit you more, and you are particularly lucky that your figure happens to reflect your personality. I have found, however, that it is extremely rare that a woman’s body shape completely accords with her character. Most large-busted women do not really enjoy being buxom. And many tall women would simply love to be petite. Curly haired women spend hours in the bathroom with the hair straighteners... but I digress.

We can assume that many (though not all) women with the athletic body shape would not be happy to look mannish and androgynous, and would like to look as feminine as possible, without ending up like a fairy at the top of a Christmas tree.

I would suggest that she does so by taking a leaf out of the ‘apple shaped’ woman’s book. That is to adopt the optical tricks that will provide the illusion of a more hour-glass shape, without going over the top.

The neat, fitted jacket is a key item in the wardrobe for this woman. But it should be soft (anything too rigid would start to look mannish) and a bit longer than the jacket that the apple woman would wear. This is because the larger athletic woman would probably like to disguise her thighs and bottom more than the apple-shaped woman. She should avoid padded shoulders, or anything that has any trace of male tailoring, like peg-topped trousers (despite what the fashion pundits might say at the time!).

Detailing should be minimal. It’s fine to have classic details like interesting jacket-collar revers, but these should not expand into anything too elaborate like flounces or frills. Skirts should be simple and streamlined, and anything like tiers should be avoided like the plague. Sleek, minimal dresses can look stunning. Trousers can be more adventurous. Depending on height, this body shape can really carry off interesting trouser looks! I have seen athletic women wearing a wide variety of different trousers, from jeans-with-attitude to super-wide jersey pants.

Colour can be used to emphasise femininity. In fact, I would suggest that women with this body shape really owe it to themselves to do something interesting with colour or print in their wardrobe. To make up for the femininity deficit, they have to inject something stylish into their choice of fabric. Without the added pizaaz that the ultra-feminine body shapes offer, the athletic woman would end-up looking very dowdy indeed if she stuck to the usual large woman’s obsession with black.

The wonderful thing about this body shape is that it’s a simple undertaking to dress it well. And once that has been achieved, the athletic-shaped woman transforms into a well-proportioned woman. It’s a little bit of fashion magic.

 
I came to your shop at the end of April with the intention of just buying a pair of cropped trousers. Among the things I bought that day were a full length black dress and a matching 3/4 sleeve shrug/cardigan. I wore these together when were on a cruise recently and a gentleman I have never met before told me that he thought my dress was beautiful and that I looked lovely. I felt so good!

A complete stranger has never said anything like that to me before so thank you so much for spending the time with me earlier in the year to make sure I had the perfect combination.

 
Hi Angela

Thank you so much for your lovely post! It’s heartening to hear stories like this.

Over the years we have heard many of them, and it’s so good now to have them on the forum so that other people can read them.

I think it does spread confidence in women - so many of my customers are beautiful and yet they don’t seem to realise it!

 
I can’t even begin to describe my state of fascination at this time of year in the shop. Yes (even after all these years) I’m still sad enough to get edge-of-the-seat excitement with the latest that my industry has to offer.

For it is at this time that we get in our new season’s stock, and it really is like Christmas for me. And just like the Christmases I had as a child, it all starts with the anticipation. We don’t have a delivery every day, but some days we have several. I believe I’m a little bit psychic, so there are days when I just know there is going to be a delivery - I can feel its vibration in my fingertips. I start to glance out of our shop window, pacing backwards and forwards like a guard dog patrolling the boundary. I pretend to be doing something terribly important with the window display. Every car that drives past draws my attention. When a lorry or van draws up, I start to linger near the door. I feel a frisson of disappointment when I see a delivery man dropping off a parcel to the offices upstairs.

Then, when a certain van pulls up, I just know it’s the one for us. My hackels are up, and I am waiting expectantly. Trying to look cool whilst craning my neck, hopping from one foot to another. A box is delivered to our shop: we rush to tear it open. Beautiful things are inside.

It’s actually better than Christmas.

I am not the only 'psychic'. We have a number of customers who can also catch a scent in the air. One woman, in particular, lives just around the corner from our store. She is a 'dyed-in-the-wool' fashionista, and she knows just when to come in. She arrives almost the second the delivery van has left, and pokes her head around our door. She looks curious, leans her head on one side, and says one word: 'New...?’.

Last week we had some of the most gorgeous knit suits you could imagine from a German company called Sallie Sahne. There was a beautiful jacket and cami, in a kind of deep blue with a hint of mauve, with an incredible sheath-like skirt. There was also a cashmere coat and jumper in an aubergine colour. Even though they are knits - and therefore are not suitable for wearing at this time of year - the fashionistas have already been at their stealthy work. And we have only one of these knit sets left already.

The world of the early shopper is a secret and discreet one. For the serious fashionista these early pickings are the sweetest and the best. These lucky, clever and quick women steal into the store and snap up early. They quietly build their style in a way that is an enviable mystery to the 'civilian' shopper. 'Just how on earth', I used to think, 'do they get their beautiful clothes, and why don’t I ever see anything like that?'. Working here, I now know how.

When our Anna Scholz delivery arrived I’m not proud to admit that I was hyperventilating. Sometimes I’m really glad that there is only a small audience for my embarrassing behaviour! The full-length wrap dress was everything I had ever wanted it to be. I’m now in the ridiculous position of impatiently waiting for the cooler weather for the opportunity to wear my new clothes!

Some customers, who have further to travel, put in their special requests. We know which women would kill for a floor-length, sleek, beautiful skirt. We know who drops everything to have her Anna Scholz preview. They would never speak to us again if we didn’t pick up the phone and give them the latest intelligence...

I know it’s business, and I know that this is just a way of making a living - so I should be sensible. But fashion is an emotional art form, and emotion and good sense don’t always run together...

 
Hi Emma and Kim, thank you for all your help on Saturday.It was so good to have advice from kim on the sort of outfit I wanted. It was also so refreshing to have such excellent customer service. I soon forgot the rigours of the journey across London with every other line not in service! It was all worth while to find your service so good. Now I have had a little time to read your forum I realise that you expertly guided me towards the exact outfit that apple shapes look good in! I am now looking out for that chunky necklace that is not too short!! I know that I will be visiting your shop again as I have found the perfect activity for me when my husband goes walking on the South Downs!
Best wishes Elizabeth

 
Hi Elizabeth

Thank you so much for your post - it was lovely to meet you on Saturday. I’m so glad you found what you wanted for your celebration.

I couldn’t believe your terrible luck with the trains - but, as I said at the time, it did end up being worth it!

We look forward to seeing you again soon.

 
My colleague Jaq and I have just returned from our twice-yearly trip to Düsseldorf in Germany, where we have been buying next summer’s collection of clothes for the shop.

The show is at a huge exhibition centre called CPD, and due to the downturn in the fashion industry it is much smaller than it was just a few years ago. However, for people like us, it is no less exciting. This is because those ranges that have a fashion-forward, exciting offer are still there. In my opinion it is the failing ranges that have disappeared altogether - actually saving us time when we are navigating the show.

The beautiful, creative collections are calling to us - we can hear them all the way back in England - so it is with a mounting feeling of excitement that we embark on our journey to Germany.

A lot of people ask me whether it feels strange buying for next summer - it seems so far ahead. But the truth is I am usually so excited to see the designs that all other thoughts go out of my head. If they were showing us the collections on the side of an erupting volcano, so long as there were some lovely things to be had, I doubt that I would notice anything untoward. I certainly wouldn’t be quibbling about how far away next summer was... just let me see those clothes!

It’s only when I walk away from a stand, after I have bought what I have wanted, that I start to get the familiar feeling of frustration, because six months does seem an awfully long time to wait for the delivery of those gorgeous things.

What did I see that I really liked? Well, the first thing about next summer is the abundance of the most beautiful colour, and I think my first blog about this buying season will deal with this. That is because, in my opinion, colour is the number one thing my customers are interested in... and for good reason. The most gorgeously styled clothes in the world could be flooding the shops, but if they are the wrong colour you will not buy them. You simply cannot wear colours that don’t suit you.

When looking at next summer it’s quite difficult to talk about what colour, though. There really were so many shades, in such superb combinations, that it’s hard to know where to start.

Fashion is continuing its love affair with what I call ‘berry’ colours. That is to say the part of the spectrum that includes deep pinks, magenta, lilacs, purples, mauves, cranberries and aubergines. There are also plenty of lighter, vibrant pinks and a smattering of true reds and terracotta. The blues that are coming in are slightly to the mauve end of the spectrum... electric blue, cobalt blue, deep hyacinth and midnight. And there are greens going through limes, apples and then emeralds. There are neutrals too: silver greys - all the way through to deep charcoals and anthracite. There also seems to be a preponderance of black and white. Phew!!

Very often the fashion industry seems to delight in giving us a narrow band of colours that can only hope to satisfy a small section of the female population, leaving the rest of us wondering what on earth we are going to wear. Quite frankly, this season, we are being showered with choice, and there will be no problem whatsoever for anyone.

I think that colour must have an effect directly on the brain. I wouldn’t be at all surprised if some researcher discovers that as soon as vibrant colours are absorbed through the eyes, pleasure hormones are released into the cerebral cortex. If this is true, these would be the colours to do just that.

I can’t wait to see these gorgeous things arriving in my store. I can’t wait to see my customers falling on them in delight. But most of all (I’m embarrassed to admit) I can’t wait to start wearing some of them myself...

 
Hi!
The aubergine Brand jeans were waiting for me on my return from holiday and they are an excellent fit, I wish I had found them years ago! I wore my blue pair of Brand jeans on a 12 hour long haul flight and they were so comfortable. I really recommend them for travel, you hardly notice you are wearing them! I also wore the elena miro outfit purchased last month and received several compliments, in the tropical heat the lightweight fabric was ideal and thanks to the cut didn't cling at all. I'll be keeping a close eye on your blog to read about all the new goodies arriving, especially Brand. Thanks again Emma Plus.

 
Hi Kim

Thank you for your post - I’m so glad you have been pleased with the Brand jeans. We have been getting very good feedback for them.

You may find it’s good that, by opting to go for the aubergine colour, you went for a different look this time: it gives a bit of variety, without being too limiting.

I really look forward to seeing you again soon.

 
Hi Emma

Just a quick question on when we can expect to see some examples of your new season's stock on the web site.

I can't get over before late September but would love to have an idea of what's coming up.

Thanks!
NICOLA

 
Hi Nicola

Thanks for your post. It's interesting how you seem to have read my mind, although I suppose (to someone interested in fashion) it is perhaps a question that was begging to be asked!

Jaq and I were just discussing the new images for the website today. It is frustrating for us at the beginning of the season before we have received them all. As soon as we get them we collate them to find a representative selection, and then send them to our technical department (i.e. my brother John, the genius behind our website), who arranges them on the site.

I have noticed before, Nicola, that you have a knack of giving me a little jog now and again (for other readers, Nicola is a customer - and friend, I think I can say now - of long standing). You’ve just set me thinking that now I have the blog, it is not necessary to await all the new images before I can start putting some of them up for customers to see.

I promise, as soon as I get some really good ones, I will put them on the blog and explain what is coming in. In the meantime I will photograph some of the new deliveries myself, so you can have a taster.

These are two fantastic jackets that have just come in, but are already selling. The black one is Sallie Sahne, the red Anna Scholz...

 
Hi Emma

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep an eye out for the new images.

We're off on holiday next week for our annual trip to Galicia just keeping my fingers crossed that the weather will be fine as the climate has more in common with Cornwall than it does with the rest of Spain.

Speak to you soon
NICOLA

 
Hi Nicola

I hope you have whatever weather you wish for on your holiday! I only say this because, living in Spain, you may not be praying for the kind of really hot weather that most Brits long for on holiday. You may actually be wanting typical Cornish weather!

Here are some more new deliveries. The knitted parkas and waistcoats are by Elena Miro - and are made from incredibly light, soft yarn. This season's colours are particularly good.

 
Nicola

Hope you are well. You may or may not have noticed that our new images for the Autumn/Winter collection have now been put on to the 'Our Range' pages on the main part of the site...

 
Hi Emma

Sorry not to reply sooner. Yes I saw the photos of the autumn winter stuff when I got back from holiday last week. It has really whet my appetite for popping over for a shopping trip.

I am trying to find a cheap flight for this Saturday (19th) otherwise it will be the week after.

Looking forward to seeing you all!
NICOLA

 
Hi Nicola!

I wonder if you have managed to get a flight - it would be so great to see you!

We have had some lovely things in - hope to see you soon.

 
Hi Emma

I'm just arranging a flight to come over next Saturday (the flights this weekend were really expensive). Looking forward to see you and Jaq on the 26th.

I should arrive around 9:30am so have a cup of tea ready!

NICOLA

 
Nicola!

Excellent! We will have the kettle on. It will be so good to see you...

Emms

 
Hi Nicola

So sorry to hear that you couldn't get in today - oh the problems of a jet-set lifestyle!

Hope to see you next Saturday...

Have a great week.

 
Yeah I was really gutted when I arrived at the airport at 6:30am to find the flight had a 4+ hour delay. As I was due to return on the same day it would only have left 1 hour in Brighton for all my shopping (impossible).

Easyjet have changed my booking to next Saturday instead. I just hope they have a plane next time!

NICOLA

 
Hi Nicola!

I can't help feeling that it is a cheek - you were put to so much trouble!

I look forward to seeing you this Saturday - the only problem being that Jaq has got a day off, so you will miss her this time...

 
Hi Emma

Just a quick note to thank you for last Saturday, it was lovely to see you and as usual I came away with some beautiful clothes. It was just a shame to miss Jaq.

I wore the Elena Miro shirt and Verpas trousers to work yesterday for an important customer meeting and felt great. Unfortunately the rest of the new things will have to wait a bit longer as it's been 30 degrees C all week! I am praying for cold weather so that I can get out the new coat. I absolutely love it, it's wonderfully tailored. I will try to remember to post a photo on the forum when winter finally arrives.

As I mentionned, if you see any cardigans or jumpers which you think I'll like please let me know.

Lastly I must apologise for not thanking you for the lunch, I only realised when I was on my way back to the airport - put it down to jet lag :-)

Thanks again!
NICOLA

 
Wonderful to talk to you both today. Finding Emma+ in the summer of 1994 (was it REALLY that long ago?) has changed my life in the clothing sense. My first purchase - the lovely turquoise swing jacket - is still going strong!
Visiting Emma+ is always fun - hours of trying on wonderful clothes with Emma & Jaq making me feel like a million dollars.
THANK YOU
Liz x

 
Hi Liz

Thank you so much for taking the time to post your lovely remarks! Actually, I was only thinking about your swing jacket yesterday, and wondering if you still had it, because the A-line style is totally a top look at the moment!

It’s having lovely women like you as our customers that makes this job the fantastic pleasure it is!

We are going to tell you the minute the fabulous Exelle trousers come into stock to make sure you don’t miss out.

In the meantime, here is a piccie of some new swing-style tops that have just come in...

 
The top on the right is fab, lovely shape.

 
It's lovely - a slim A-line shape in a soft jersey, by Nanso. I have to confess I had one myself!

 
Hi Ladies just a quickie to thank you both for yesterday! I just love my new outfits - I hadn't expected to be so lucky! Tonight I'm going to wear the black trousers & top with the cerise jacket ... WOW!
The turquoise jacket is a Guissler btw ... I guess that means something to you ...
Please stay in touch & will see you again before Christmas.
L x

 
Hi Liz

How lovely to see you yesterday! You looked absolutely fabulous in what you chose. The pink jacket was fantastic on you.

I hope you had a superb time wearing what you had bought. I’m very proud of our clothes - you wear them so well. When you are not looking I will have to stick a sign on your back saying ‘outfit by Emma Plus’!

 
Hi Emma and Jaq,
As promised here is a photo of me wearing my Anna Scholz dress that I bought for a family wedding, we had a lovely day with lots of sunshine. We stayed at a very nice hotel and I wore the other dress I bought from you the next day and felt very posh!
Thanks again for all your help and advice,
Best Wishes,
Chrissi.

 
Hi Chrissi

Thank you so much for your post, and lovely photo. I am really digging the gold shoes and matching slouchy bag!

I’m so glad that you had a lovely day - you certainly look fab!

 
I am looking for a long winter coat size 36 - if I have to face another english winter looking like a bag lady will go mad - any ideas?

 
Hi Sally

Thanks for your post. You will be glad to hear that we have some superb winter coats on order this season, and now is the time to start looking.

This is because the winter season’s stock starts to come in through September and October, but items really sell quickly. There’s never a time when everything is in stock - by the time the last things arrive, the first things have already gone!

I think it would be a very good idea for you to start phoning us on 01273 327240, and we will keep you updated as to what has come in. Alternatively, you could speak to one of us about what it is that you are really looking for, and we could add you to our ‘wish list’. This means that we will call you when what you are wanting arrives in the store.

I have included a photo of a couple of the coats that we have already. The burgundy coat is from last season, is by a supplier called Chalou and is reduced in the sale. It’s a size 34, but Chalou is quite generous. The purple coat has just arrived from our supplier Exelle. These coats are selling like hot cakes, so if you are interested, do call us!

I’m certain that you have never looked like a bag lady. I also have no doubt that your days of feeling like a bag lady are rapidly coming to an end...

 
Planning to be in Brighton- stopping by to shop and chat
let me know,

Kathy
hope all is well

 
Hi Kathy

So good to hear from you - how are you? I think that October 1st is a Tuesday, which is my day off. In the evening I do my exercise class!

I hope that perhaps you could come in on one of the other days that week...?

 
Its a Thursday - will you guys be in?

 
Kathy

I am such a space cadet! It is a Thursday - hooray! We are both in on that day. I will try to get some extra staffing in so that we could perhaps get a bit of lunch...?

Hope to see you soon.

E

 
yea.... it will be after 2pm... so not too worry abt lunch/we can do tea!

 
Kathy

Mmmmmmm.... tea. And perhaps, cake!

 
Kathy!

Hope it's still on for Thursday?

 
Hi Kathy!

Got your message about the 1st. Hope to see you next time...!

 
The poet John Keats wrote ‘A thing of beauty is a joy forever’, and when it comes to fashion (at the very least) I agree with him. Fashion is an art and an industry devoted to the pursuit of beauty, and is in the business of joy-creation.

We are coming to the end of the buying season now (I have just one more range to buy to complete the Spring/Summer 2010 collection), and I have been taking an overview of what’s in store for us next year.

There are so many highlights worthy of mention, that it’s hard to know where to begin.

We have ordered chiffons and jerseys in soft, flowing styles, in jewel colours, ranging from teal, to cobalt blue and purple. We have gone for sassy, sexy little fitted jackets from Italy and Ireland. We have selected crisp, cleverly-shaped linen suits, and Sergeant Pepper-inspired waistcoats, adorned with cut-steel embelishment.

Hilariously, we have even invested in some jumpsuits, which some inspired person has managed to make work for the larger woman (I’m going to have one of those!).

But I suppose, yet again, the range that most stood out for me was the Anna Scholz collection.

Anna Scholz is the foremost designer for the large-size market. Her clothes exude confidence and uncompromising sensuality. They are unapologetic; they assume the wearer is an attractive, vibrant woman with attitude and taste.

If Anna had produced a collection up to her usual standard, I, for one, would have been thrilled. Judging by previous collections, one could assume that Anna would always bring forth something that will be just gorgeous.

So it was almost with disbelief that I looked at her collection for next summer. There were so many items that were breathtaking that it was difficult to take them all in. It seems almost illogical that someone should decide to just go berserk like this! I think, if I were Anna, I would worry that I was using up all my most brilliant ideas, all at one time. There is not space in this piece to list all the clothes that deserve mention, but I will dip in at random and describe some...

There was a black and white floor-length stretch silk gown, with an Art Deco inspired print, plus a plunge neck and sleeves - that is a dress that every large woman ought to have in her wardrobe. The versatile fabric is also used in one of Anna’s trademark kaftan tops.

There was a mink-coloured trouser suit, whose styling gives a nod to a man’s dinner suit. The same jacket is produced in a cobalt blue, and can also be worn over a matching wrap dress.

There is a gorgeous chiffon creation, with a pink and grey swirl pattern on a black background. This has been made into a couture-style dress with an interior structure that could only have been dreamed-up by a genius.

There was a dress with a Grecian draped neckline, made from sweet and feminine hydrangea print stretch silk, giving the impression of a nineteen-thirties tea dress - yet with a brighter, more sharp and edgy feel.

In fact the feel of the collection for me was of nineteen-thirties meets the seventies, with 21st century hindsight.

In the same poem, Keats wrote 'Some shape of beauty moves away the pall from our dark spirits'.

Speaking just for myself, had there been any pall from dark spirits hanging over me at the time, it would have rocketed away after I had caught sight of these beautiful creations. That’s one of the wonderful things about being a woman: the presence of really gorgeous clothes can work wonders...

 
Hello - I've just found your blog and I have to say its great.

One plea though - please don't print these pictures of Anna Scholz's dresses when I can't buy them yet: its like having your nose pressed against a particularly good sweetie shop and not being allowed in :-)

I've worn Anna's clothes since her 1st collection and still adore them...now, have to find a time to come down to the shop as hoping it must be as good as the blog.

 
Hi Sharon

Thank you for your post and for your kind words.

Yes, it's very cruel to show images of clothes that you cannot get until next summer. But now you know how I feel!

I have mentioned before on this blog how sometimes I come away from buying a collection (particularly an Anna Scholz collection) in anger, because I feel bad about having to wait for six months before I can get the clothes...

 
Dear Emma -
I just had a good read through your ever so well-written Forum and blog :)
I always enjoy our appointments and love nothing more than to tease with new exciting designs for the forthcoming seasons. I am sure you will be glad to hear that even I have to wait until spring to get my hands on the new goodies.
I am happy that things are going so well for you and our collection is flying !
All the best and lets do that lunch very soon.
Anna x

 
Hi Anna

Thank you so much for taking the time to post on our blog!

I think it is a good thing that you are able to see the comments left by customers who enjoy wearing your clothes.

Of all the ranges that we have ever stocked, the Anna Scholz collection stands out – it must be very satisfying to be involved in this highly successful creative process.

Here in our shop it certainly feels good that we are able to provide these clothes to the women who really love them, so we are very grateful to you and your team!

 
This is just a note to say a big thank you to Emma for taking the stress out of purchasing outfits for professional women. Many of us have to have an image which conforms modestly and traditionally to the roles that we hold in society. Finding clean lines, correct colours and a confortable fit (all the c's) is almost impossible in a busy schedule.
Getting the outfit altered without charge is the greatest service ever offered.You and your team have big hearts. My thanks Emma.
Sorry to remain anonymous for security reasons.

 
Hi Anon!

Thank you for your kind comments. It is very touching to hear these things - we really do try our best and we are so grateful to hear that we’ve given satisfaction.

We have a lot of customers who are busy, professional women, who simply don’t have the time to mess about when they are buying clothes, yet at the same time need to look totally ‘put together’ when at work.

Until someone has had clothes altered to fit them perfectly, then they are unlikely to understand what a huge difference this makes. To have clothing adjusted by a skilled seamstress, is to truly experience how a garment is meant to perform.

 
Hi ladies at Emma Plus

Thanks for your great assistance when I called into the shop recently. I'm still marvelling at the way you were able to pick out super items for me to try on that I hadn't even considered myself. It really takes a lot of the hassle out of clothes shopping and there is never any pressure to buy.

As you know I liked the look of the Nanso top you featured on 22nd August and was delighted to find you had one in stock that fits like a dream, so much so that I bought the green version too! The material is so soft, the cut of the top is great and the length is spot on. It really is a throw on and forget about it item but at the same time unusual and smart. I like the way the pockets are properly sewn in and don't stick out at the sides unlike so many mass produced garments that as a result make us look wider at the hips. It goes lovely with the augergine coloured Brand jeans that I had bought previously.

I'm also really pleased with the lilac tunic from NP which Emma picked out for me. It's another simple easy to wear top which I've already worn with the sale bargain black Sallie Sahne shrug. I'd never worn a shrug before but I can see now how versatile this sort of item can be.

The cut off trousers that Kim picked out for me have also been worn so it was a highly successful and enjoyable visit!

Anway, I look forward to receiving the super black Brand jeans when back from alteration. I can see me ending up with many pairs of these jeans, they are simply superb.

 
Hi Kim

Thank you so much for your wonderful illustration of the benefits our lovely Nanso tops! I love the fact that - as narrow ‘A’ lines - they don’t cling, yet, at the same time, they are not too voluminous! I think you will be very happy with the way it will wash - it will always be lovely and smooth, and will never need ironing!

I’m really glad that the Brand casual trouser range is doing so well. We have reordered them for next season because they are already selling through for this one...

By the way, I do think you have taken modesty too far. Having met you, I happen to know you have a particularly attractive head, which would have enhanced the photograph considerably!

Seriously, though, I am glad that even women who like to maintain their anonymity (like the previous poster) or who, like yourself, prefer to be self-effacing, feel able to make comments on the blog - not everyone is a show-off like me!

 
Hi
The black Brand jeans have arrived safely and the altered leg length is perfect, thank you. I'm also pleased to say the Nanso tops are as easy to wash and wear as you said. Thanks also for posting up pics of your new stock as it's so helpful to have a taster of what's coming in!
Regards
Kim

 
I can't resist putting an image of some of the gorgeous new jackets on to our blog. They have just been delivered, and there is something about the lovely cobalt blues that is just scrummy!

 
As promised, I am uploading pictures of new stock as it comes in. The latest arrivals are these purple tops from Dutch brand Exelle...

 

The pink dress shown on your home page is fantastic. Do you have them in stock still? Who was the designer?

Thanks,

Jane

 
Hi Jane

Thank you for your post - I'm glad you like the dress on our homepage.

The picture is an 'historical' one... it's a dress by Anna Scholz from a couple of seasons ago. We will usually have an iconic image on our homepage that remains unchanged for a while to help communicate our brand values to new customers.

We sold that particular dress very quickly, as we do nearly all Anna Scholz dresses. We do have some from the latest collection in now, but as usual they are already selling through.

We generally find that if you discover you like one item in the Anna Scholz range, then you will love many others. I would recommend, if you are interested, that you track down a stockist and try them - they are every bit as gorgeous on as they are in the photographs!

 
When reading the way fashion is written about in newspapers and magazines, one sees the various angles from which this subject is usually tackled.

There are journalists that talk about fashion from the top down, and examine the influence of the most famous designers from their shows in New York, Paris, London and Milan. Alternatively, there are writers that concentrate on what is happening on the high street, or the youths that create street fashion.

Some journalists get obsessed with the influence of the economy on clothing trends, whilst others turn to politics (high heels as seen from a feminist angle, anyone?).

You can read articles about what women should wear at any particular age. And there have been many helpful stories about the best looks for people with various different coloured complexions, and body shapes.

However, there is one huge area of fashion that seems to be virtually ignored by the learned fashion writer. I’m talking about the massive impact that personality or psychology has upon what an individual is prepared to wear, and the look one is trying to achieve.

What kind of thing am I referring to? One important issue is: do you dress for yourself or for others? How confident are you?

For instance, imagine yourself in this situation. You are standing in front of, say, 50 people - all strangers - wearing an outfit that you are particularly pleased with, and feeling good. Then you find out that the people with you are going to be asked to comment on your clothes.

How does that make you feel? Are you relaxed? Confident? Do you have any idea what the people are likely to say? Will their opinion override your own? Indeed, is this whole scenario your worst nightmare?

So the 50 people all proceed to have their say on your outfit. Of that number, imagine that 49 agree with your own analysis of your style. The general consensus is that you are looking hot. Your look hits the spot - it’s fashionable, stylish and suits you.

However, there is one person among the 50 who has a different opinion. She feels that you are looking frumpy, lumpy and stumpy.

Be honest with yourself: would you actually be more likely to listen to that one dissenting voice, simply because it is being critical? Are hers the comments that you will take home with you? Do you find it easier to accept criticism than praise? Maybe that is what you are actually listening for?

Actually, are you your own worst critic? Even if everyone admires the way you look, do you still doubt yourself?

Perhaps you take an almost scientific, dispassionate view. To have the huge percentage of people agreeing that you look wonderful speaks volumes about how you are seen by others. And that one disapproving observer? Well, we all know that there is simply no pleasing some people!

On the other hand, are you the kind of person who can stand your ground, even if the proportion of approval to disapproval were reversed? Imagine that out of 50 people asked to comment, 49 felt that you were not dressed successfully, and only one felt that you looked superb. Would you simply smile, shrug and quietly realize that you were in the company of philistines, with the exception of one enlightened person?

Perhaps you would delight in their disapproval of your clothes, because nothing makes you happier than to be a rebel, with your own renegade style?

Or, if you were told that a group of people were going to make a comment on your fashion sense, would you simply not want to hear what they had to say, because you would find it tedious and pointless? You have no interest whatsoever in what people think you look like (we could call this the Anne Widdecombe attitude).

Do you get impatient with all this navel-gazing, and feel that we should snap out of it?

A woman’s reaction to these issues is key to the kind of look she is trying to achieve. Yet very often she has never really given any conscious thought to them. This is a major cause of confusion and frustration in my business.

There are women who know they look good in various colours and styles, and who feel that they ‘ought’ to wear them - yet find something standing in their way. Friends try to encourage them to break out of their safety zone, but they are unable or unwilling to do so. The obstacle is coming from within themselves.

Then there are women would love to try a more colourful, exciting, perhaps more revealing style, but instead stick to dull colours and demure shapes, which draw less attention (and less judgement) upon themselves. They are feeling pressure from others.

I think that, when it comes to buying clothes, you have to think about more than just your body shape and colour suitability. You have to understand, embrace and develop your own psychological makeup with reference to your look. Because although your body and skin may slip effortlessly into a chic, colourful and distinctive style, your psyche may have to be shoe-horned into it - with real mental discomfort!

The only way to deal with this is to meet it head on. To look at how you would like to dress, and what is standing in your way. You may decide that you really have nothing to fear and should ditch some of your inhibitions, embarking on making a radical new departure.

However, you may conclude that your tried and tested style has stood you in good stead, and has given you a welcome comfort blanket which has helped you in your life. Stepping outside this safety zone would not be worth the net gains... you have a busy life to get on with!

Either way, it’s worth knowing that it is a choice that you make each day of your life. In fact it is never too late to change, and I know from personal experience that real people do so all the time. The results can be truly life-altering!

It would be a good idea to think about what you are up against, though. Because if you find that for every 50 people voicing admiration for your look, you always seem to hear one negative opinion, it may be worth checking out the source of that one critical voice.

It may just be coming from inside your own head.

 
Hi ladies

I did try to respond to your email but it bounced back
I called - not sure you got my message.

Sorry - I had a client meeting but really do need to come in and see you all and get some retail therapy!

Also - miss you lots!

Kathy

 
Hi Kathy

Yes, we did get your telephone message - thanks so much for that. So sorry our email system chose that time to misbehave - goodness knows how many emails I am now missing...

We'll get together soon. I'm really looking forward to seeing you!

Emma

 
Hi i am new to your webite. I am a 5'2" size 20/22 50 year old woman. I have recently been made redundant and have a limited budget to update my look to feel confident to get my next job. I have always felt intimidated in small shops and have had the usual expereince of finding clothes that fit in the usual high street retailers. I was planning to go to london at the end of the month in the hope of finding a wider selection of larger sizes but i think i know that my search will be as dissapointing as it usually is. I am looking for a stylish but smart 'capsule' wardrobe that will take me from interview through to day to day office wear - should i forget London and come to Emma Plus?

 
Hi Terri

Thank you for your post. It often happens that the first time we meet a new customer is when she is on the lookout for her next job! We like to think that we are able to be the ‘secret weapon’ to give her an unfair advantage at interview.

We do have a lot of customers travelling down from London to buy from us. I think it is because we can offer help and advice, as well as a wide choice of items. To know that you have really found the right thing to wear is a tremendous boost to confidence at this time.

It’s great to feel sassy and fashionably dressed, but for an interview I would always suggest an effortless, comfortable businesslike look - the emphasis should be on choosing your outfit, then forgetting all about it. The last thing that should be on your mind during an interview is a concern about how you are looking.

Some seasons we have many work suits, yet at other times separates seem to be the in-thing. At the moment there are a lot of work-style co-ordinates. The good thing is that this means that an interview outfit will effortlessly turn into part of the 'capsule wardrobe' required to do the job!

You need have no concerns about your height. Although many of our clothes target the taller woman, we have a free alteration service which will ensure your outfit fits you perfectly.

My only worry is that you don't leave it too late: the clothes come in throughout September, and then start to sell out. By the end of November our choice starts to get quite restricted.

This year, I’m proud to say that we had 100% success in our interview outfits, so the omens are good - you’ve stumbled upon us at the right time!

 
Thankyou so much for your response. Can you tell me if i need to make an appointment to get the most from my visit?

Many thanks again!

 
Hi Terri

No, it isn't necessary to have an appointment, although it's vital to know our opening hours if you are travelling to us, because we are closed on Sundays and Mondays!

The rest of the week we are open between 10am and 5pm - and you can always phone us on 01273 327240. We look forward to seeing you in the store!

 
Just found your site - your clothes are fabulous but surely your models do not reflect the size of ladies that you are catering for.

 
Hi Susie

Thank you for your post. You make an interesting point that I have always felt would arise on this forum sometime!

As with a lot of interesting questions, although on the surface the subject appears simple, it is in fact quite complicated.

The images that we have on our site fall into two groups. One comprises pictures that we or our customers have provided, and represents the clothes that we have had in our store. These photographs are mainly on our forum, and are usually of either happy shoppers wearing our outfits, or our own shop window mannequins modelling our styles. We have two mannequins, one of which is a size 20 and the other a size 24 (and so are at the lower end of our size range). However, by definition these images are of clothing in plus sizes.

The other set of images that we have on our website are those provided by our suppliers, and are posed on professional models. We have little influence over our suppliers in their choice of women sporting their looks. (It would not be practical for us to take our own photographs on models-we can only really do it on our mannequins.) If you have not already done so, it may be a good idea, at this point, to check out the pictures that are on our ‘Our Range’ pages. Believe it or not, these women (in the main) are considered to be ‘plus-size models’!

This is because the models for any particular size range are always far taller and slimmer than the average woman. Thus for ‘mainstream’ fashion, the models can be six feet tall and a size eight (surely no-one can deny that is a freak of nature). In the plus size range, the models would be size 16 or 18, six feet (or more) tall women. These plus size models often do not have a single scrap of extra flesh on their frame, and are perfectly proportioned.

I know that some doubt that these models are in fact a size 16 or 18 (they certainly look very slim). For most of the speciality plus-size ranges, however, I can personally vouch for the fact that these extraordinarily perfect looking women must actually be this size, because the clothes they wear in the photographs are. I have seen and checked over the sample clothes provided to the models, and I promise they are ‘plus size’. That is always supposing that you consider plus size to be 16 or 18.

Which leads us on to a whole other can of beans! I personally think it is ridiculous (and a scandal) that women who are size 16 or 18 are considered ‘plus size’. This is patent nonsense, because the average woman in Britain today is 5 feet 4 inches tall and a size 16. By definition, size 16 is average-sized, and in no way 'large'. In fact, taking the models' height into account, they are actually much slimmer than the norm. (You may have gathered by now that this is a bit of a hobby-horse of mine!)

This is, in a nutshell, where fashion and ‘real life’ collide. It could be argued that the fashion industry is at present living in cloud-cuckoo land. One day, I feel sure, larger women will be considered just another current in the mainstream. All we can do for now is to express ourselves as the women we are (beautiful and fashionable) and ask over and over again to be realistically represented in this industry.

So I applaud your question, and hope that you continue asking it of every fashion professional you encounter! I will certainly continue to bring this up with our suppliers, and - as I know for a fact that some of them read this forum - am very happy that you have raised it here!

 
As many women reading this will already know, you don’t always go to a designer clothes shop just to buy some clothes. That’s the main purpose, of course; even with recent improvements in the high street brands, the independent store still remains the prime source of fashion.

You can simply go into a shop, quietly select the clothing of your choice, try it on in a peaceful environment, make the purchase, then just go home. There are many women who choose to do exactly this, and are very happy.

Most women, however, whether they know it or not, are actually using another service provided by this kind of store... the service of a skilled stylist.

What does a stylist do? Most of us have seen a certain type of fashion stylist at work on television. This kind of stylist will normally take a woman who has avowedly no interest in fashion (and, often, shocking taste) and do a makeover on her - seemingly turning her into a completely different person.

Often this changeling not only ends up looking different, but also ‘benefits’ from a complete emotional overhaul, usually (apparently) against her will. She ‘goes on a journey’... No region of her body is held sacrosanct from prying eyes, cameras and often hands, and all areas of her psyche, no matter how private (or apparently irrelevant), are probed. The all-knowing stylist will brook no opposition, and by the end of the programme the transformation is complete. It has to be said that the participant usually looks younger and much more stylish as a result of the process - but often more than a little shell-shocked and browbeaten.

It’s not for the fainthearted - and that’s just the viewers! I do enjoy these programmes, and I feel they fulfil a purpose. They give ideas and advice that we women can put into practice in our own lives.

The enjoyment is a rather guilty one, however. It’s a kind of fashion blood sport; a modern take on throwing Christians to the lions for public entertainment. The original woman, shown in all her bad fashion and 'old hag' hair, with 'mad woman' makeup and gnarley teeth, is cruelly exhibited for our titillation and disgust. The stylist is seen as the all-powerful force for good. And the transformation is magical.

This could not be further removed from the work of the stylist in her everyday life in a fashion store. For a start, the women who call on her advice and help are far from being fashion-challenged. They are usually the most stylish women in any given population. This is, after all, one of the locations where all the most fashionable women buy their clothes, although by no means are these the only people that frequent the fashion store. Most customers have a less maintained look than the diehard fashionista (and are real women who actually have a life, after all), but they don't have hag hair. And their makeup does not scare small children.

The customers of a designer store emphatically do not need a makeover... so why do they require the services of a stylist? These are women who know what suits them and get a lot of joy out of dressing well. By and large, if they could not find a stylist to help them, they would still look great.

However, there is no denying that a really good fashion stylist is a very useful tool in the important task of looking fabulous. She is the 'go-to' person when you are looking for something particular that you really can’t live without. (Need that little black dress for your pear-shaped figure? Or that pair of velvet trousers? Or the business suit for the important interview?) Even if it is not in stock anywhere, your friend in the store will move heaven and earth to obtain it for you.

Perhaps you just aren’t sure about something... does your bum look big in this pencil skirt? You know that she will subtly steer you clear of fashion faux pas.

She makes her living by being your secret weapon in outshining the thin girls in the office at the Christmas do - just when you were about to feel a bit intimidated about finding the right thing to wear.

She will also tirelessly dig through all the tops to find the one that goes with the skirt you love. And she will magic-up a colour that goes perfectly - and is on trend.

She has no other agenda than to make you look good. After all, if you look good, she looks good. Your psyche is none of her concern, and she will keep her hands and eyes off your private areas. She’s in your corner. She does not compete with you, judge you or browbeat you.

And the only journey she will expect you to go on is into the changing room for a jolly good trying on session...

 
Good morning Emma
I just had to respond to your comments on the 'stylist' Emma. Before I found your wonderful shop I wouldn't have been able to relate to this at all but for the last 15 or so years that has all changed. Whenever I come into Emma+ I KNOW that I am going to have a wonderful time both socially and as a shopping experience. You and Jaq find a fantastic selection of clothes for me to try on some of which are well outside my 'comfort zone' but thank goodness for that! Thanks to your knowledge I have worn so many more colours and styles - even - shock horror - a white linen long jacket (one of my absolute favourites)! Me? In white? Surely not? Oh yes, and it makes me feel fantastic :-)
So thank you both for opening up the world of fashion to me. Long may you reign!

 
Hi Liz

Thank you so much for your kind comments. When I referred to stylish women who get joy out of looking good you were just the kind of woman I was talking about!

 
Hi again from the antipodes.

Emma, Jaq; please consider a relocation. The weather's lovely :) Sitting in the lounge with the aircon charged, and it's only October. Time to get the lighter gear out for comfort.

Reading your discussions on stylists was intriguing; I'm bordering on a career change, and a land purchase (with a view to dropping a house on the block at some stage; all too scary to deal with :) )

It's makeover time. I need to drag myself out of the "special pieces are for special times" mindset that my current job, working from home, has allowed me to slip into (well, and that I've allowed myself to fall into), and get back to "I want to look fabulous every day!"

Odd how the prospect of additional money makes me want to present myself at my best, when at the moment I'm prepared to have only one or two "special" pieces which are brought out only for "good". Why should I not feel "good", every day?

To be honest, I have no idea why I've let myself bumble my way into only owning one or maybe, at a push, two outfits I'd be pleased to be seen in in public. The rest are "acceptable", or "not embarrassed" to be seen in. Not a great start. I need to be more brave, and ditch the stuff which makes me feel less than fabulous. I need to make the effort. For me.

I'm looking forward to the transformation my change in circumstances and responsibilities will bring. I've started with the basics: nails and hair. Next is a full rework of my makeup. After that, it's time for the "real world" clothes . And then I can adjust the hair, nails and makeup to match the package. I can't wait :)

Wishing I was in the UK, because I know exactly where I would be spending my next Saturday. Hell, I'd bring the bottle of bubbles for effect.

Best wishes, and hoping everything is running smoothly,
Lara

 
Hi Lara

Thank you so much for your post. I don’t know whether you realise this, but to the reader what you have written comes over as very inspirational!

All the time I see women in similar positions to the one you describe. This is often what brings a customer into our store for the first time.

There is sometimes a moment in life when things start to move forward and change, and you realise that you have the opportunity to shape the kind of person you are going to be in the years ahead. To use an Aussie analogy, it’s a wave that has come along, and you can choose to catch it and ride it for a while.

These are really precious moments - and can be the source from which a lot of different opportunities spring. If your instinct is to develop an aspect of yourself, then I would definitely go for it.

Fifteen years ago I was made redundant from a job I loved. I had little money, and the economy was tanking. For some unknown reason, instead of being depressed I felt liberated. I took over the shop and reinvented myself into the kind of person that I am most happy with.

It was a scary time, but it was the best thing that ever happened to me.

I wish you the very best, and I hope that you move forward towards where you want to be. I only wish I was there to see it...

 
Why are all the models on your web pages skinny and young? Lets have some real women strutting their stuff! I am planning to come in and spend my £10 voucher soon..Thanks very much

 
Hi Rosemary

I have a feeling this issue is going to run and run!

Actually, someone else has also posted a remark very similar to yours (see post 84), and I have to say, I heartily agree with it!

If you read my reply to that post, you will see why we put these images on our website.

However, I really feel that the more comments like yours the better - any kind of pressure on our suppliers to provide more realistic images has got to be a good thing! I would love to be able to get my suppliers to take one look at our forum and then try to explain why they continue to use small models!

 
Hi Emma
After my hugely successful visit to your shop earlier in the year for my sister's Mamma Mia wedding I have another wedding to go to in a few weeks time. It is an evening one this time and I wondered what you had in for me to look at, possibly next week?
Let me know, thanks and very best wishes and look forward to seeing you.
Carina

 
Hi Carina

My name is Jaq and I run Emma Plus's shop floor. Emma is indisposed for a short while, so I thought I would respond to your enquiry. We have had a few new deliveries this week - including some absolutely stunning pieces from Anna Scholz. Anna specialises in evening wear and her items are just wonderful for making you feel fabulous. Her clothes really have to be tried on, as she gets the fit superbly. I would suggest that you call me at the shop so we can have a chat about what sort of thing you're looking for. Please phone 01273 327240 - I'm in most days.

Good luck

Jaq

 
Hi Jaq
Thanks for your message, unfortunatly I am unable to call you today as I have to be somewhere that I can't make phone calls from! Anyhow, the sort of thing I am looking for is the very attractive 'duster' coat I bought from you in the summer. It is a sort of silk chiffony fabric with beading and an under shift/dress. I bought a realy simple black stretchy one I think it was EXcell, very slimming I think! Anyhow, I am planning on coming to Brighton on Tuesday next week if you think it is worth while. Let me know, if you need my phone number - or I might try and ring tomorrow, but again very hectic here with daughter's birthday party! Thanks. Carina

 
Hi Carina

So pleased that you've enjoyed your purchases from Emma Plus! The Exelle black dress is extremely versatile and can be dressed up or down depending what you want it for. It's a great base and could easily be worn again for an evening function.

Why don't you bring it with you when you come down to the shop. Tuesday is a good day to come in, but if you can wait until Thursday you might find we have even more choice, as I'm expecting quite a large delivery. We look forward to seeing you in the store.

Warm regards

Jaq

 
Hi,

Could you please let me know if you stock any of the Caryn Franklin dresses?

Thanks

Tracey

 
Hi Tracey

I'm afraid we do not stock Caryn Franklin designer dresses. Does she produce a designer range? I have never seen them at any fashion shows. I would be interested in her merchandise, as I remember the clothes being very stylish on the BBC shows from years ago.

Jaq

 
She does a small range for the catalogue SimplyBe. Am looking for a nice dress for xmas - anything below knee-length that has 3/4ish sleeves. Do you have anything like this in stock at the moment. Also - will you be opening on Sunday's nearer xmas?

Thanks

 
Hi Tracey

It's yes to your question about lovely dresses with 3/4-length sleeves. I've just had a delivery from one of my favourite suppliers, Anna Scholz, that had quite a few such dresses. I'm also expecting another delivery with a selection of beautiful items on Thursday, so your timing could be good. It is always the luck-of-the-draw with sizing and availability, but hopefully there will something in the collection that you might love.

At present we do not open on a Sunday, but if you would like to have a one-to-one chat do call us at the shop on 01273 327240.

Many thanks

Jaq

 
I visited your shop today. As soon as i entered, lovely greeting from Jaq, let me just me mouch, offered a drink & sat down a spoke to another lovely customer, so impressed with the dog, was showing me all the tricks! Jac picked lots of beautiful clothes to try on and she is so honest about how i looked, I dread shopping normally buying frumpy or boring things,your shop has stlye. I love Anna scholz, she makes clothes for proper ladies, for the first time in ages i felt confident & sexy!

 
Hi Amanda

Thank you very much for your positive comments. It was so nice to see you in the store and I have to say you did the Anna Scholz dresses proud.

If you ever need that special sexy dress, Anna is the designer for you. Do enjoy your new clothes, and we hope to see you in the store again soon. Have fun.

Jaq

 
HI HAVE JUST FOUND YOUR WEBSITE AND WAS AMAZED AT THE SELECTION OF STUNNING CLOTHES,HAVEING BEEB USED TO ONLY BUYING FROM EVANS AND CATALOUGES IT WAS SO NICE TO SEE SUCH LOVELY CLOTHING FOR A CHANGE,I AM HOPING THAT YOU SELL SIZE 30/32 , CAN YOU HELP.

 
Hi Jackie

Thanks for your enquiry. Yep we've got some great clothes in your size. In saying that we are now late in our season - so you've already missed a fair amount of the stock. But on Thursday we're having a top-up delivery and we have chosen quite a few pieces in your size. So if you fancy a trip to Brighton it would be lovely to meet you, and I can show some things that will suit you. Alternatively call us on 01273 327240 - I'm in most days.

Jaq

 
Hi Jaq

I hope you have some stock left for when I'm hoping to visit on 11th Dec!

Do you have any of the Nanso roll neck tunics in chocolate sz L in stock. I bought a black one last time and it's a delight to wear.

Regards

Kim

 
Hi Kim

So glad you're pleased with your latest addition to your growing Emma Plus wardrobe. It's lovely to get such positive comments. There is good and bad news regarding your request though. I've had a new delivery of Nanso, which is selling like hot cakes. In that delivery was an even longer tunic in the same fabric as the top that you mention, but it's only available in black. I will try to reorder the original brown one you mentioned. If they have it, I will save it for you for the 11th Dec. I will let Kim know your request too, just in case I'm off that day. We look forward to seeing you soon.

Jaq

 
Thank you so much! Fingers crossed that Nanso have one in stock.

 
Way back in March (I think) I visited your shop at my wits end looking for an outfit for my son's wedding! As you can see the wedding took place on 18th July - this is my husband, son and daughter with me at the Church we had a wonderful day and everyone said how fantastic my outfit was and where did I get it - I only told the larger ladies I'm afraid!! If you remember I also got a wonderful mulitcoloured silk top and black trousers (which you altered to perfection!) and a plum coloured silk suit for my son's graduation in July 2010 - however this will also be used for my first grandchild's christening as they are expecting their first child in June 2010 ! Never been happier - thanks to all at Emma Plus - ps if you remember I was with my size 8 friend who is still VERY jealous of the choice I had. Thanks again - hope to see you soon

 
Hi Gill

Wow... what a lovely post. It's so rewarding to recieve such wonderful posts, and also to see the clothes being worn. You all look so happy... it's a great photograph. The Personal Choice wedding suit was just perfect for you. I do remember you and your friend - you were a breath of fresh air in the shop. You couldn't decide which outfit to buy (it was between the two Personal Choice suits) and then you remembered your other event, and your friend said to get both. That's a good friend you've got there; she truly wanted the best for you.

Thank you for showing us the fruits of our labours. You looked marvellous. Can't wait to see the next photo of the graduation in March.

Jaq

 
I have the nango key hole top (black background with lilac, blue and brown print) pictured in your daywear collection but there are no instructions for washing, ironing or cleaning. Can you help? Thanks

 
I have the same top. The label (well hidden down the side) says 40 deg machine washable and the iron symbol has two dots. I washed mine yesterday on a 40 deg general wash cycle, hung it on a hanger and its dried with no need to iron at all.

 
Thanks Kim for coming to our rescue and replying to one of our customers. I've got that top too; it's fab isn't it!

Jaq

 
Dear All,
I came to Emma Plus in slight desperation for something fashionable and slightly larger than the shops generally stock, to wear. I'm not the worlds best shopper and had roped in my lovely friend to help me to find something to wear for a special occasion a week later - I do like to be prepared - NOT! I was giving her a bit of hard time because she was not able to find me something suitable that fitted but fortunately I had looked up Emma Plus on the internet before my visit to Brighton - which is not my neck of the woods.

The moment we came into the shop I felt supported and looked after by Jaq and Kim. They picked out things for so that I didn't even have to look at the rails and I picked an Anna Scholtz dress which I wouldn't normally have chosen with a lot of pattern. It didn't quite fit but every cat was pulled out of the bag, and Denisa altered the dress, with very little time to spare, and the dress has now arrived with me and fits to perfection.

The event is tomorrow and I am now really looking forward to it. I will send a pic so that you can all see the results of that fantastic support from everyone in the shop . Shopping is an emotional experience and for me and I am so glad that I walked into Emma Plus which is a haven of humour, inspiration and assistance to find what you want. A priceless experience. Thank you.

 
Presenting the new Mr and Mrs Gleeson!
It was a secret wedding with only four of us there - only told the witnesses 30 minutes before!
The only people who new before were Jaq, Kim and Denisa at Emma Plus. Thank you so much for being lovely and for enabling me to have such a lovely day. I am sure that I will wear the dress so many more times.
Thank you again for helping my married life started so beautifully!
Marie

 
Hi Marie

Thank you so much for posting your lovely picture on our forum! It was such a pleasure to meet both you and your (very knowledgeable!) friend.

You looked wonderful in the dress, and the picture is so joyful!

Lots of love and good wishes,

Emma, Jaq, Kim and Denisa

 
Just happened on your site and what a wonderful surprise to see such unusual, stylish, and sharp fashion for the goddesses among us! I would love to know both the size and price range and whether you send out catalogues. Thank you.

 
Hi Rita

Thanks for your enquiry. Yes we do have some wonderful clothes. As we all know it is so difficult to find unusual and beautiful clothes in larger sizes. I think we (larger women) are often forgotten or ignored in the marketplace. But you'll be pleased to know Emma and I strive to fill the store with fashionable good quality clothing. We start at a size 18 and move up to a generous size 32. We may not be the cheapest option, but our customers tell us that the quality and styling are really outstanding. And as the advert says ''we are worth it''.

I do hope you can get into the store as we don't do a catalogue. Emma Plus is all about personal service and honest, professional styling advice.

Jaq

 
So I found myself in the nightwear department of a well-known chain store, looking for some new pyjamas. You may be able to guess the store I was in - it’s the one that supplies undies to the nation! Unfortunately, for me, the experience was bringing on ‘shopping rage’. I just couldn’t find what I wanted, even though there were hundreds of pyjamas on display. Why on earth was I being so fussy?

It was an odd set of circumstances that had brought me into this store. After having a bit of a health problem, I found that I needed an operation (I’ve since had it, and some of you may have realised that there has been a bit of a hiatus in my blogs whilst I have been recuperating). True to any surgical procedure, the operation seemed to require a massive loss of weight, so I have recently lost 4 stone, and gone down from a dress size 24 to a teeny-weenie size 18. This brings me into the very smallest size in our range - so I’m the Emma Plus version of size zero at the moment!

For my five-night stay in the hospital I wanted some nice pyjamas, and although I have collected some beautiful ones over the years (I haven’t worked in a large size store for nothing!), they no longer fitted me. I needed new ones. In our store we do sell pyjamas (although we don’t always have them in stock) but we certainly couldn’t be relied on to have a size 18 pair available. Most of our range goes from a size 20 upwards, with a smattering of 16s and 18s. My colleague, Jaq, ordered some beautiful ones from Nanso, which does lovely colourful jerseywear, but they had not arrived, and it was just a couple of days before my operation. In my new smaller state I felt confident that for once in my life I might be able to find what I wanted on the high street, so I strode forth.

On that particular shop floor there were so many different pairs of pyjamas; it was enough to make your head spin. Thick ones, silky ones, flimsy types and fleecy. Bright and dull coloured. Traditional and jazzy. There was just one problem... I didn’t like any of them. This was because each pair had a very short top. Held up against me, I could see that the jacket part of the nightwear ended just below my waist, at about navel level. They did not cover either the tummy area, or the bottom.

Bizarrely, this was the case for every style, no matter how they differed in other ways. Not a pyjama in the entire store had a top that would cover one’s derriere. Someone had taken it upon him or herself to decree that a longer top just wasn't allowed.

Now, pyjama trousers are not a thing of beauty around the bottom region. Why would anyone spend their hard-earned money buying a garment that was so incredibly unflattering? Honestly, who, other than Jennifer Anniston, would actually look good with their bottom hanging out of the back of their jym-jams?

However, this problem is particularly irksome for larger women. It's my belief that if one asked just about any woman over a size 16, she would confirm that, if she is wearing trousers (either during the day or at night), she will need a top that covers her bottom - it's hardly rocket science! So this is yet another example of a range of items being bought by a major store with inadequate knowledge and no consultation about what larger women want.

I roamed the department with my friend, getting more and more angry. The lone sales assistant I managed to wrestle to the ground (as she tried to dodge her way across the shop floor) obviously thought I was being incredibly fussy. But I wasn’t, actually. I just happened to know what I needed, and was not prepared to put up with something less.

In our store customers often apologise for being 'fussy' when they are merely being prescriptive about what they are looking for, and it usually makes me smile. These are women who have spent ages trying to find a specialist designer store. They have managed to track Emma Plus down. Then they have quite often travelled some distance to get here. They have been prepared to pay higher than high-street prices to buy our wares. Finally, they have often been happy to wait until the item has been altered to make the fit absolutely perfect, and sent on to them by mail.

In short, they have built the Emma Plus business in the likeness of what they really, really want. And they have kept us successfully trading for 20 years. If they had not been so 'fussy', then they would have given up and just bought items from the high street that they were not happy with. And the result would be that we would not exist.

Call it what you like, but fussiness is not a word I would readily use. I would prefer to call it taste.

Well, I had the operation and it was a success. I’m hoping to get back to work by Christmas – just in time for some very exciting new developments that I will discuss in a subsequent blog.

And, as luck would have it, my gorgeous Nanso pyjamas arrived just in time. They even had a beautiful matching dressing-gown (which Jaq had kept as a surprise). And the style of the top was long enough to cover my bottom - and then some!

 
I have searched the web far and wide to find a decent leather coat in the U.K.
I am looking for a hooded 3/4 length parka, or duffle style, and although I found just what I was looking for in America, do you think I can find one here?
We have places like Simply be, who offer fashionable leather jackets that end just under the bust. Could you imagine what I would look like in one of those, with my size 48 boobs???
I am a good size U.K.22

 
Hi Angie

Thanks for your post. The simple answer to your question is no, I am not aware of anywhere in the UK that you could rely on for buying a coat like the one you describe - or, in fact, any really nice leather items in larger sizes - and I find this very disappointing. If an online supplier of good leather coats in larger sizes exists, then I have not heard of it. Perhaps if any other user of this forum has some information on this subject, they will reply to this post...

You really would think that what you are looking for (a good, useful, stylish leather coat, in what is actually not a very large size) would be readily available in the UK. I guess the Americans are ahead of us in some areas!

Designer stores like ours are one of the only ways to source a really good leather coat, but they are a fringe item in our ranges. We would commonly only stock a very small quantity of styles, and finding the one that ‘lights your fire’ and is available at any one given time, is a bit of a long-shot. We don’t have any leather coats in stock at the moment, I’m afraid.

In general terms I do feel that you have touched upon a real difficulty - i.e. the problem one encounters when trying to get something quite specific in larger sizes. When customers contact us with this kind of enquiry, the way that we deal with it is to try to source something specifically for a customer, but I would be the first person to admit that this is a far from perfect system.

What we would do is find out exactly what it is that the customer wants (it could be anything from a corset to a leather coat to a sweater dress), discuss details such as price point, colour, size, etc., check our stock, and then, if we don’t have it, note the item down in our ‘Wish List’. Then we would see if there is anything similar available from our suppliers.

Sometimes it can take up to two seasons to actually get the desired item, so it is a good idea to opt for a belt-and-braces approach, and still actively search online even while you are waiting.

I would give a word of warning, though. With items like a leather coat it is best to buy a very good quality item, spending as much as you can reasonably afford. Mail-order items are often a real let-down in this area. This sounds like the kind of thing a designer shop-owner would say, of course, but truly, I think it is all too often a false economy to choose the mail-order option.

I think you may have already pinpointed one of the problems of mass-availability items: design. Many of the larger companies show a shocking ignorance as to what suits a larger woman (no, by the way, I don’t think a short jacket usually looks good on a larger bust!). The other thing that is supremely important in an item made of leather is the quality of the hide. A stiff, cardboardy leather is never going to be a pleasure to wear, no matter how many times it gets an outing. In fact, it will only usually look worse with wear.

Alternatively, if you were able to wait, reach out to your favourite designer large-size store, and buy a really good quality item as soon as it is available, it will be worth it. A quality leather coat is a real investment. It’s a very practical piece of apparel that's wonderful come rain or shine. A designer coat will be fashion-forward - giving you a great deal of aesthetic satisfaction, and is likely to be in a classic or individual style that will not date. Best of all, unlike other materials, the leather will improve over time.

Unfortunately, I am only too aware this is one of my replies that goes all round the houses without actually helping you with your specific problem - for which I apologise! The only bright spot is that I truly believe that availability of a wide range of items in our size range is improving. It is up to all of us to keep on asking for what we want - we need to drive home to the manufacturers out there that the demand for these kinds of items exists!

 
In previous blogs I have hinted that there was some exciting news about developments at the Emma Plus store, and now is the time for all to be revealed!

We have decided to have a store refit in January next year. This means that there is a lot of good news, and a little bad news. The bad news is that we will be closed whilst the builders are doing their work. It’s incredibly rare for us to close during our normal trading periods, because we are all too aware that customers are relying on us. Some of our customers drive all day to get to our store, and it is our worst nightmare that someone travels from, say, Yorkshire (believe it or not that is not a unique occurrence) only to find that we are closed.

So we keep our closures to the minimum, and the last time we had a refit was about nine years ago, during which time our little shop has been displaying some signs of wear and tear. Eventually we have had to bite the bullet and opt to close for the shortest possible time in order to undertake our refit. We will be closed from January 11th, and will not reopen until January 26th 2010.

Of course, one aspect of ‘good news’ about this, is that we will have a lovely shiny new store, providing a suitable backdrop to our beautiful clothes. But there are other excellent aspects to our refit.

For a long time, I have wanted to have a fully air-conditioned store. This is because I think we may be able to offer a particularly comfortable experience to our customers in the summer. Many of our visitors have air-conditioned cars, and if they decide to park in the car park right next to our store (there is plenty of room; it’s a very large one), they will only have a one-minute walk to get into our shop.

This means that on those super-hot summer days, when everything seems to be such an effort, it would be possible to pop into a cool car, drive down to Brighton, and stroll over into a pleasant and cool store to have a really good trying-on session. There are even some superb restaurants nearby in which to lunch, also in cool comfort. What a lovely, pleasant and productive way to spend what may otherwise be just be a rather uncomfortable hot and sticky summer’s day!

I was always rather concerned about the effect that running an air-conditioning unit would have on the environment. However, we have been able to opt for one of the environmentally friendly units that are now available (integrated with greener heating systems) and which are acceptable from an ecological point of view.

The other piece of sparkling news about our refit is our 'Major Stock Clearance Sale'. Having had previous experience of refits, I have learned that is essential to clear just about every piece of stock being held in the store. This is to avoid the possibility of stock being damaged or tainted, as well as enabling the builders to have free access to all areas of the store.

So we have a limited time in which to clear all our stock, which is where the Clearance Sale comes in. This sale will start on Friday 18th December at 10.30, and Saturday 19th at 10.00am. I would recommend you attend if at all possible, because this is a very rare event and the reductions will be far beyond our normal sale reductions.

For those with a nose for an extreme bargain it may be worth biding your time and coming into the store on the final few days before the refit, when we will be clearing out our stock with gusto, and there may be some ridiculous markdowns!

It’s worth remembering that we normally clear most of our stock every season (albeit usually six weeks later, and without the urgency we have during this sale), so that the stock in our Clearance Sale is beautiful, current-season clothing. It will be well worth a look.

When the store will reopens on January 26th we will be introducing our new collection. During the Spring/Summer season we will be inviting our customers to all sorts of exciting events to showcase our shiny new store. We will be keeping our forum readers up to date about everything that’s happening.

One way or another, we look forward to seeing you soon!

 
Emma, I wish I had a reason to visit England and your store, but in the meantime, I do check out your blog and love it! I just found your September post about Anna Scholz's Spring collection (I was googling just to see if I could find photos of a preview somewhere!) and am now waiting with baited breath.... When will it be out? My step-son is getting married in May and I am thinking that one of her Spring dresses just might be the ticket for me.

Oh and if you ever do open an online boutiques, please ship to the U.S.! We really do not have the selection you do in Europe. I live in Dallas, TX and sadly, we do not have an upscale plus boutique at all! In fact, I have been musing recently about opening one someday.....

Thanks and best wishes for the holidays and your big renovation coming up!

 
Hi Kirsten

Thank you for your post - it’s always surprising to realise that people all over the world read our forum!

You are obviously very good at ferreting out information. As far as I know, our forum is the only place anywhere where you can find advance images of next season’s Anna Scholz collection! Honestly, I think the only reason why Anna lets us display the pictures is because she likes us!

The collection starts to come into the stores after Christmas, usually some time during January/February. Please don't worry about obtaining what you want, when you want it, for next season... one of the main purposes of the Spring/Summer collections is to provide beautiful dresses for spring weddings! Next season Anna has really surpassed herself, and you will be thrilled!

I haven’t checked with Anna, but I think that she may be able to advise you on how you will be able to buy her clothes in the US. It may be worth emailing her - her company is lovely and there may well be some way that they can help you. I would really recommend going the extra mile to get her items if you can - I don’t know of any better designer in our size range.

Surely someone could start a really smart boutique in Dallas! It would certainly be a wonderful success. If you, or anyone out there wants to do it - I promise I will give what advice I can!

 
Thanks Emma! I have had great luck with online orders from Neiman's and La Grande Dame for Anna's styles and have ordered a couple of things directly from her site. You are right that her staff is great, Winnie has been very helpful! Anyway, I will look for new styles in January/February. Best wishes for a wonderful holiday seaon. One my favorite memories is the year my family spend Christmas in Canterbury and then had New Year's in London. Take care.

 
Hi Kirsten

You really are clued up - I doubt if there is anything I could tell you about sourcing our kind of fashion online!

And you appear to be a great Anglophile too - obviously a woman of impeccable taste! It must have been wonderfully Christmassy in Canterbury - what a great place to choose for the time of year.

I hope you have a lovely holiday season and a very happy New Year.

And may the fashion fairy smile on you... and bring you a gorgeous dress for your stepson's wedding!

 
It amazes me to realise that I have been selling lingerie for over 30 years. I first began at the age of 16, working for a very large retailer (you know - Britain’s foremost purveyor of knickers!) on the underwear department. The very first day I started, I was trained in the art of measuring for a bra, and in those days the management made sure there was always a team of sales assistants at hand to help any customer be properly fitted, should she wish.

I have been fitting and selling lingerie on and off ever since, so it is rather sad for me that from after Christmas we will no longer be stocking underwear. We have not actually been making a profit on our lingerie, but had continued to stock it as a service to customers. A few years ago if a woman was looking for a size 48FF bra, Emma Plus was one of the only places she could obtain one. Now, with the rise of the internet, I feel the time has come to leave this particular speciality to those who focus on it.

Over the years that I have been involved with foundation wear, I have always found it remarkable that it is such a poorly understood subject, and I would love to take the opportunity of this blog to express some of my opinions! In particular, I would like to explode a few myths propagated by journalists writing on this subject.

We are often told that it is important to be ‘measured’ for a bra, that many of us are wearing the ‘wrong size bra’, that we should be re-measured every six months, and various other platitudes fed straight to the fashion journalist from the bra retailer. The impression given is often that the ‘underwear professional’ is the great purveyor of wisdom.

Actually, I think there is something of a danger of going for a bra fitting, particularly these days. Time and time again, I have had customers in my store who have had such a fitting, and have emerged, not just with an uncomfortable bra, but with the conviction that they are a size that they almost certainly are not.

One of the problems of being fitted for a bra is the complexity of what is happening. Unless you have worked with women for a very long time, and have been able to see the wide variety of human body shapes, it is unlikely that you will be truly able to understand the problems involved.

For example, one of the classic techniques in bra fitting is to measure under the breasts to give what is called the ‘band size’. Then a measurement is taken across the widest part of the bust (the fullest part of the breasts). These two measurements are used to achieve the cup size.

Although this is a good way to start off a bra fitting, it is only the beginning, because an over-reliance on a measurement is often a sign of a poor fitter. If I were able to place two women in front of you right now, I could easily demonstrate the problem with simply relying on numbers.

One of the women would be a customer who has a somewhat barrel-shaped rib cage. There is nothing strange or weird about this: she looks perfectly lovely, and it is just that her ribcage does not get much wider towards her thoracic area. When putting the tape round the widest part of her bust, all the increase in measurement is in the size of her breasts.

The other woman is me, and my back gets much wider towards the top of my torso. Again, there is nothing particularly unusual with this; many apple-shaped women carry a lot of weight on their back. To be frank, the weight I carry on my shoulder-blades is almost equivalent to my bust!

The two of us have the same measurements, yet my cup size is actually two sizes smaller than the customer’s. This fact is not to be discovered by wielding a tape-measure. It can be seen by an experienced professional, or, failing that, can be demonstrated by simply trying on a number of differently-sized bras.

This is just one of literally thousands of reasons why a tape measure turns out to be a very blunt instrument indeed when it comes to divining bra size. And this is only the differences in human body shape...Once you factor in the differences between the various makes and styles of bras, you can imagine how complex the subject is!

So when a customer walks into a store such as Rigby and Peller in Knightsbridge (surely, this country’s foremost lingerie specialist), for example, she may not be too surprised that the tape measure is not overly-relied on. The sales consultants will most often just look at a woman and estimate by eye what size she needs. Then there will be a proper trying on session. It is this part of the process that I call a ‘bra fitting’. It can only be when a bra has been demonstrated to fit properly that the fitting is performed.

My big worry is that there are many stores that do not have the wide range of sizes that Rigby and Peller boasts. A store which has the full range of sizes will have nothing to gain from supplying a poorly-fitting bra. However, a new problem seems to have arrived on the High Street.

In the past few years, I’m sorry to say, I have lost count of the number of times I have come across the ‘band size’ issue that seems to have reared its ugly head. This is where customers of mine who have a somewhat larger band size than average (no surprise there - we are a large-size store after all), seem to have been shoe-horned into a smaller band size than they require.

Many of the new companies that are supplying bras on the high street boast that they supply ‘large size’ bras. By this they actually mean ‘large cupped’ bras. Although there has been an increase of bras going up into the larger cup-sizes (hooray!), few collections seem to wander far above the size 38 band size. This is a great help to those of my customers who are a small band size but a large cup size (a significant minority). However, it is very frustrating for those of my customers who also need a larger band size.

For my largest customers, these new 'large size bra ranges' are completely irrelevant.

Most irritating of all is when I see customers who have been ‘professionally measured’, and who seem to have magically morphed into a size stocked by the shop they are in. Thus a woman who is a size 42c becomes a 38dd. This is somewhat fortunate for the shop she is in (which doesn’t actually stock a 42c, yet has a wide range of 38dds).

The unfortunate woman finds the band size underneath uncomfortable (although the widest part of the bust is big enough), but has been told that ‘it is just a matter of getting accustomed to it’. She has ‘been wearing the wrong size bra so long that she has got used to it feeling looser’. And all of this must be true, because she has been ‘professionally measured’ by a woman wielding a magic measuring-tape!

My best advice to women who at present take a band size in excess of size 38 is to try to be measured in an environment which stocks the widest range of sizes. These are the stores that can be relied upon to give a truly impartial service. This may also go some way towards persuading those stores with a limited size range to get real and start to stock the range of sizes necessary to reflect the size of real women today-surely not too much to ask from a specialist lingerie store...

 
Giving a Sale is like giving a party: you get everything ready, you send out the invitations, and you wait for your guests to arrive.

Our Emma Plus 'parties' are very well attended; usually it's standing-room only and there's a wonderful buzz. However, sometimes - like even with the very best parties - something goes wrong, and for one reason or another the guests don't quite make it.

This year, Brighton (and most of the South East of England) experienced what is for us a very unusual event... snow in December.

As this has meant that most of the people intending to come to our Sale were unable to make it, we have decided to re-schedule it. The new date for the Major Stock Clearance Sale will be Thursay 31st December, and Saturday 2nd January. As is our tradition, we will be closed on New Year's Day.

The true bargain-hunters amongst you will probably have already guessed that this means that the bargains will be even better, because every day that passes brings us nearer to our refit date, by which time we have to have all our stock cleared.

Weather permitting, we hope to see anyone interested in a really superb bargain on our doorstep at 10.30am on Thursday 31st December, or Saturday 2nd January!

All of us at Emma Plus would like to take this opportunity to wish our customers a very Happy Christmas, and a peaceful and prosperous New Year!

 
Thank you so much for your help on Saturday when I came in for "just a top" and went out with 2 tops, a winter jacket and 2 pairs of trousers (being altered).
My friend said how much she liked the asymmetric Nanso top that I wore on on Saturday evening and even my sons (21 and 26) commented that they hadn't seen the top before.
I'm looking forward to seeing the new look shop when i came back for my trousers at the end of January.
I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

 
Hi Angela!

Thank you for your post, and congratulations on braving the weather to come in on Saturday!

To have had a reaction from twenty-something sons is quite a result! I think I will start to complile a list of responses our clothes have engendered - I think it will make good reading!

I hope you like the look of the new store at the end of January - it's an exciting time for us...

We wish you a very Happy Christmas, and a great New Year!

 
I love verpass jacket, the trendy black top and the Anna Scholz jacket which you kindly sent ( Thanks Jaq)
Most of all I love shopping with you - and being friends through the years. You have all been important to me in so many ways... besides the wonderful clothes, the unflagging service -always with a smile and a coffee- you have been as all good friends should be- positive, encouraging, caring and making me feel and look great.
I wish all of you a merry Christmas and a fabulous New Year...see you soon. XX00

 
Hi Kathy

I can't tell you how sorry I was to have missed you when you came into the store - it's been ages! I'm glad you like your things.

In the New Year we are definitely going to 'Do Lunch'!

If you think you may be able to come, do tell me, and I will be there! Don't worry about telling us you are coming, then finding out that you can't at the last minute - that's the kind of thing that happens in retailing all the time! If you get here it would be fab, and if you can't make it, we know how busy you are! On the other hand, if it's a last-minute thing, I realise you won't be able to warn us first; it will be pot luck - but on the plus side - usually either Jaq or I will be in the store, so you are likely to see at least one of us...

I hope you have a wonderful Christmas and a superb and prosperous New Year!

Lots of love...

 
Dear ladies at Emma Plus
Luckily I was able to come into the shop today to pick up the Nanso top I had already ordered. I walked in and saw a shop full of wonderful clothes well reduced in price. I was delighted to pick up bargains in Anna Scholz, Sallie Sahne and Verpass and the alteration service allowed me to choose lovely items I would not of otherwise been able to wear. I hope other ladies are able to go along between now and your refit as you still had plenty quality clothes at excellent prices. Have a great 2010 and I look forward to visiting your new improved Emmas Plus shop.
Regards
Kim

 
Hi Kim

Wow - what lovely reaction to our Sale! I think it was your first experience of the Emma Plus Sale? If so, you found us at the right season - just when we were planning a refit!

Actually, to tell the truth, it breaks my retailer's heart to make such big reductions on really lovely clothes - but having had refits before, I know that we just can't do the building and redecorating work with any stock left in the store!

I think you should be in the fashion business, Kim, because you are developing an encyclopaedic knowledge of all the ranges - it took me years to remember the names of all the collections we stock. I do think you are right to build-up your knowledge of what you like, because it was you that mentioned Sempre Pui to us (on this blog), which encouraged us to buy the Chalou brand. This shows the power of customer feedback!

One of the nicest things that keeps being said to us by customers at this time (which you said yourself, when you were here yesterday) was that people were really looking forward to seeing the new shop after the refit - as am I!

I like to think that I can run a fashion business (after all this time), and I really enjoy the selection and buying of our stock. However, I can't honestly say that I have any of the necessary skills for overseeing building and decorating work, so the end result will be as much a matter of surprise to me as it will be to our customers! I am completely out of my comfort zone! It really is a very exciting time...

I hope that 2010 progesses into a healthy, happy and peaceful year for all readers and contributors to our forum!

 
Dear Emma,
Just when I find what I've been looking for, it's beyond my reach! I live across the pond in the US. Traveling to Brighton is not possible. What is a girl to do? Am I destined to live out my life in less flattering clothing, never reaching my full feminine potential? :) Or will Brighton share you with all of us, perhaps allowing you to travel and 'bring' some of your beautiful pieces to those of us less fortunate to live nearby? Doesn't the rest of the world deserve to be transformed? Or will we have to continue visiting your website and just DREAM?

P.S: The music on your website is beautiful. Who is the artist and what is the name of the song?

 
Hi Vivian!

Thank you for your lovely post. It's great that we can reach people from all over the world with our forum.

I can only make two observations about your predicament. The first one is that you sound like the kind of woman with the sense of style and imagination who could really make a go of starting up your own designer store....And the second is that if, as you say, there is nowhere near you that sells beautiful clothes-it would be bound to be a success!!

I've always said, if there is anyone out there in cyberspace who is thinking about starting a store, I will give what advice I can.

I love the photograph you have posted-a view from your back porch, I imagine? If it were, there would certainly be some compensations in living there-even if the local fashion left something to be desired!

I have had a chat with my IT supremo, and he is making enquiries about the music. Hopefully, we will be able to get back to you with details of the artist and song title.

 
Dear Emma,
I wish the picture from my previous post was what I looked out on each day (It's a picture of French Polynesia, Tahiti I believe)... I was dreaming. The picture I've attached to this post is what I see here in Southwest Florida, just 15 minutes over the bridge and I'm on the beach! Our surroundings, can be compensation in a way ...Thank you for your 'positive perspective'...Just think if Cinderella didn't have a positive outlook, she couldn't have pulled it off at the B